News:

The changes to make the forums only allow posting by CLC members have been completed. If you are a CLC member and are unable to post, please send the webmaster your CLC number, forum username and the email in your forum profile for reinstatement to full posting and messaging privileges.

Main Menu

My 1938 Sixty Special

Started by joeceretti, October 23, 2013, 08:04:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

joeceretti

#60
I didn't bother checking the wires with a meter. I had them off and on a bunch of times while working on various things. The behaviour was clearly due to bad plug wires. Soldering fixed it right off.

I think it actually runs better than it looks. The paint job is not done. I knew I was going to scratch it all over the place while reassembling everything. If the paint was in it's final state I would have been upset to get the little scratches I got.

I have some more work to do on the brakes and then I will pull a bunch of chrome off the car, block sand, paint, block sand, paint, block sand, paint.. until I am happy and then the chrome will go back on.

Also have to change the manifold gaskets and then do the exhaust. The gaskets are new but the manifolds were off the car 3 times this spring.

I feel I should add, I am having a great time working on and learning about this machine. I feel it's an honour to have the opportunity. I can't imagine just farming everything out to others. For me, part of the enjoyment is knowing how EVERY last little part goes together and works.

James Gray

I couldn't agree more, Joe. I have been making very slow progress as a result of other responsibilities but every time I do the littlest thing, I learn quite a bit.
Maj. James F Gray Ret.
Kristie Koepplin RN BSN

Member # 28494
1942 Cadillac Series 6269

Blade

I was away for a while working on other projects. Wow Joe ... you did a FANTASTIC job on that car! Turned out to be gorgous!

Thanks for posting pictures and info as you were progressing I think a lot of us can learn many things from your experiences.

Hope to see you and your car on a meeting one day!

joeceretti

I've been driving quite a bit. It's been working flawlessly for the most part. Restoration will slow to a crawl during the summer. I am going to hide a stereo deck in the glove box and do some more work on the brakes but that's mostly it for the summer.

Next winter will be a pile more work.

harvey b

Joe,are you going to the Fleetwood Country Cruise, in London,it is a must see show for Caddy fans,been there a couple of times myself and enjoyed it greatly,cant make it this year but is on the list. Harvey
Harvey Bowness

1937 LaSalle coupe

Hi Joe. Your hub cap emblems look great. How did you do them to make them look that good ? Is the paint sprayed on or brushed ? Is there a clear coat on after you painted ? If brushed on paint, did you thin so paint would flow better and how many coats did you apply ? Thanks... John Lehman... CLC# 26365...

joeceretti

Hi John. It's a single coat of jewelery fill enamel. The first one I did, I used glass paint and was not very happy with it. The jewelery enamel was perfect as a single coat. No top coat on it. I want to leave the brass exposed so I can polish it when needed.

joeceretti

Thanks!

Today I went to a u-pick-it scrap yard and pulled two hood hinge springs from a 1986 Fleetwood. The dimensions and appearance of the two springs are identical to two new repops for a 1966 chevelle. The repops would NOT hold the hood up. These two hold it up just fine. When trying to bend either spring the OEM spring is much stiffer. FINALLY I don't have to use a broom handle to prop my hood!

Also, they just barely clear the voltage regulator. They clear by about 1/4 of an inch.

joeceretti

At least my "hood prop/broom handle" was the right colour.

joeceretti

I painted my deck lid emblem today. Also painted my one good bumper plaque. Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.

joeceretti

#70
They look great installed. The plate is stuck on with neodymium magnets. I need to let the enamel cure for 96 hours before I lightly buff and add another coat to make it more opaque. I couldn't find any info on recoat times for this enamel but I know it's safe to allow it to fully cure and then buff and recoat.

Steve Passmore

Quote from: Joe Ceretti on May 30, 2014, 06:28:10 PM
Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.

Thats identical to whats on my 38 60 series. I think they are the same for both years aren't they?
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

joeceretti

#72
Not the same on close inspection. It has been stated here that the difference is in the heaviness of the script. 39 is heavier BUT the other difference is in the thickness of the entire plate. I will take some photos showing the difference. The 39 plates are much much heavier. 


joeceretti

#74
Art, it's a complicated solution. I found the 7 volt LED rectangular lights in Cuba. Then I bought, on eBay, some lightbulb bases with wires soldered on. (You could make these yourself from bulbs) Then I wired the two together. Then I bent a piece of clear plastic and used 3M trim tape to stick it inside the reflector. Then I pulled off and capped the wires that are running to the parking lights and connected my turn signal switch lights to the connector block.

I wanted to do the least amount of modifications as possible and still increase the margin of safety. No drilling is a requirement.


DeVille68

Quote from: Joe Ceretti on May 30, 2014, 06:28:10 PM
I painted my deck lid emblem today. Also painted my one good bumper plaque. Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.

Hi,

How did you paint those?
With some model paint? Revell?
Is the color uv-resistent?

I am asking because I still need to paint my wheel covers and emblems.

Regards,
Sven
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

joeceretti

#76
I used Martha Stewart Jewelry Enamel made by Plaid Industries and available at Micheal's in North America. It takes a long time to cure but self levels and fills the recesses in the pieces very well. They say to apply it with a toothpick but I used a very fine artists brush.

My hood emblem is a different story. I don't know yet what to do about it. The enameling is the correct glass enamel.

The artistry on this car is just amazing.

James Gray

Coming along nicely, Joe. I had been out of the loop for a while so I had some reading to do. I thinks it's great the ingenuity you put into the car and you methods to keep it as accurate as possible.

Kepp it up!!!
Maj. James F Gray Ret.
Kristie Koepplin RN BSN

Member # 28494
1942 Cadillac Series 6269

joeceretti

Thanks James. I am working non stop on it. I am looking for a manual throttle arm. I thought I would make one to use until I find one. Here's a shot of the one from the Stromberg AAV-26 and a shot of my first step. Fitting my home made one. Some more fitting and another bend, round the ends off and then some filing, polishing and painting and it should look VERY close to authentic. Gives me some time to find the right one and still continue on with everything else. Easily swapped out later.

joeceretti

IT WORKS! Now to finesse it and make it look like it should.