Need a '37 Cadillac V12 engine person in the area of Annapolis, Maryland

[Stinson]

Well, it is definitely the coil and I have ordered a pair of new ones today. So when they arrive we will have the ultimate test. Thanks everyone.
Ty

[Stinson]

Its been a hard night so its time to go to bed.
Ty

[Stinson]

The schematic I have does not show (-) or (+) connections for the two coils for a V12 engine. So, I want to be sure before I hook up the two new ones.

The current way my coils were hooked is as follows:
The two coils were joined at the (-) terminals and the (+) went to the two sides of the distributor cap - one on each side for connecting to the condenser. One (+) coil on the left and one (+) coil on the right.
If this is correct then I'm ready when the new coils arrive.
Thank you,
Ty

[Steve Passmore]

Sounds good my friend.

[Stinson]

Okay, the two new coils are in and now what? The car still runs on the same bank of six only, even with the new coil. Will not start or run on the other single coil. With both new coils (same as running with the old set) there is much backfiring. I thought something was wrong as it would not start easy again. Bad condenser on that side? Timing knocked off due to previous backfiring? I may have to trailer this car to Whitehurst in Virginia and have the timing professionally set correctly at a considerably high cost.
Ty Stinson

[Steve Passmore]

Can you swap the condensers over on this model?   Are they are the same?  If it then runs OK on the opposite bank that would tell you if it was the condenser?

[Stinson]

Okay, I will try that.

[31caddy]

Will not start or run on the other single coil.

Is the "bad" coil the one that is "downstream" as far as the way it is physically wired? What I mean is, does the wire from the ignition switch go to the - side ( I am assuming you still have the original positive ground configuration) of the "GOOD" coil first, and then you have another small wire joining that "Good" coil to the "BAD" coil? If this is the case, turn the ignition switch to the on position and see if you read approx 6 volts  at the - terminal of the "Bad" coil ( select Volts DC on the meter, and connect the - lead to the - terminal of the coil, and connect the + lead of the meter to a good ground such as a head bolt) If NO voltage, the wire between the - terminals of the two coils is bad (open). If you do read voltage, remove the big lead from the top of the "Bad" coil. Insert a spare lead into the "Bad" coil. Can be any coil wire that will insert into the top of the coil, and that has an exposed metal terminal on the other end. Have an assistant start  the engine while you hold the spare lead about 1/2" from a good ground. If a strong spark is observed jumping to ground, nothing is wrong with the "bad" coil. The big lead from the "Bad" coil to the distributor may be defective (broken internally) or there may be a problem with its connection at the distributor cap. If no spark is observed from the replacement lead to ground after checking for voltage as previously described at the coil, the small wire from the points to the + side of the "Bad" coil is open, or that set of points has closed up. Of course this all assumes your problem is electrical to start with, but if nothing else, it will "prove" the status of the coils and eliminate several other possible causes. One other tip - don't hold the metal tip of the spare coil lead.

[Stinson]

Thank you Mr. Rowland. This is exactly how it is wired up. I will borrow a meter and follow your instructions to the letter - and I will not hold the metal tip!
Ty Stinson

[joeceretti]

To add to what has been advised, all good advice. You need to break everything down to the simplest terms. Start at the ignition switch and check every wire for continuity. Also, have you checked if you have spark on the bank that is not working?

If you have spark then you can expect that your coil is working.

I remember your original post asking how to wire up the coils. It was working ok before that. I suspect it is a wire somewhere along the way. Focus on the wires that you worked on.

Did you adjust the points at all while working on it? If not then you can not say that it is not that but the likelyhood is lower.

[Stinson]

Problem found! I had cleaned the ends of the wire from the "bad" coil side as it was very corroded (so was the coil end of the big wire to the coil). Why, I don't know, for the "good" side coil wires look like new ends. Checked for spark and there is plenty to the "bad" side but the No. 1 piston still had no spark. So, I took off the distributer cap and noticed that the end of the condenser for the "bad" side was burnt. I took out the condenser to replace it and noticed the point system on that side was also closed the same as the "good" side. Did not think this was right (although perhaps it is) so I took off the points on the "bad" side. Then I found the problem: the non-metallic flange on the back side of the points that rides the cam to open and close the points had deteriorated and fallen off. Thinking this may have allowed the points to stay closed and burn off the end of the condenser wire. So, now I need one set of points. Can anyone please advise the information I need and where to purchase a set - perhaps two sets. If you have them I would gladly purchase them from you.
Thank you for all your help along the way - we are getting there now.
Ty Stinson

[harry s]

Ty, On the earlier V-12s (1931) the points are the same as 1948 & 1949 which are a mirror image of each other. Check it out for your application and if they are the same you can get them from NAPA or other parts stores. Good Luck,    Harry

[Stinson]

Thanks Harry, I will check with NAPA and take the old one with me.
Ty

[Stinson]

See attached.

[joeceretti]

You got this Ty. You do not need an engine person. You are the engine person. Good going.

[Stinson]

Hello everyone,
You won't believe this. I searched through all my old parts and came across a tin can. Opened it and found a rotor but don't think it is the same as mine. Also, there were two shiny new sets of points and their galvanized bases never used (but different and without the post same as mine) for the very side that I need. Also, one set for the opposite side but they are rusty. I put the one set in exactly as marked by the burnt ones to retain the same gap and alignment and put in a new neoprene spacer at the other post where I attached one of the old condensers and where everything was also burnt. I cannot believe how strong the engine runs now (AT LEAST IN THE GARAGE).However, I can't get it to slow down to an idle. I have tried to change what I believe are the idling screws on the carburetors and I have changed the screws for linkage where attached to the carbs but no change. Something must be sticking somewhere. I hope this is the final problem.
Ty

[Stinson]

Finally! Everything is working as it should. Just drove the car to the gas station and filled the gas tank. Checked the radiator fluid and drove to the highway where I did a run at 55 mph and all was great. Car idles as it should and there is no backfiring. Wow, now off to a car show today at 5:00 pm and tomorrow at 8:30 am 25 miles away. Sunday drives and dinners out, and put it away until spring. The job is done. Thinking of selling it at Hershey next year. Thank you for all your help over these eight years. I plan to purchase a motorhome (small bus type) and my wife and I will travel as much of the USA as we can. I will be thinking of the eight years of good old days restoring this car, friends made along the way, and times shared with this car, while we sit around the camp fires.
Ty Stinson

[Dan LeBlanc]

Don't forget to come up to Canada in your travels also.

[Stinson]

Looking forward to doing that. We have been to Canada for vacations the last three years and can't get enough of the natural beauty. This time, with a motorhome, we would like to drive from the Thousand Islands all the way across to the western shore and up into Alaska.
Ty Stinson

[Dan LeBlanc]

Sounds like my idea of heaven.