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Flathead Timing Marks - '40 LaSalle

Started by Andrew Zizolfo, October 17, 2014, 11:05:48 PM

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Andrew Zizolfo

Can one of you "flathead experts" out there tell me which marks are used for the proper timing of the flathead on my '40 LaSalle. The manual says to use 5 degrees, "Timing mark (IGA) ahead of center". Does that mean that the IGA mark is indeed the 5 degree mark? Or is 5 degrees one of the other marks on the pulley?
(Vacuum Advance disconnected?).
I set up the distributor exactly per figure 32 on page 33 of the shop manual.
Thanks in advance -
Andy Zizolfo CLC 5011 (CLC NER VP)

Steve Passmore

Yes 'IGN' is the mark to set the points just starting to open.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

Bill Ingler #7799

Adding to what Steve has posted, the two pictures below are from a Cadillac engine manual. What is interesting about the second picture are the two procedures you can use to time if you do not have a timing light. The first procedure I have used and does the job but the second procedure I will pass on. I suppose it would work but not the safest way to time a car.   Bill

gary griffin


With the multitude of formulas used to refine petroleum products the gasoline today basically burns slower and a little more advancement will usually make your car run better.  The modern car automatically senses this and makes adjustments for you.
Gary Griffin

1940 LaSalle 5029 4 door convertible sedan
1942 Cadillac 6719 restoration almost complete?
1957 Cadillac 60-special (Needs a little TLC)
2013 Cadillac XTS daily driver

Andrew Zizolfo

Thank you for your replies and help. I set the timing to the IGA mark and it is running much cooler. It was set on the next mark down from when I got it. I also tweaked the idle mixture a little. Runs much nicer now.
Thanks again,
Andy

Jim Stamper


     I must be missing something on that #2 procedure. With the engine running I would be hard pressed to see the timing marks. Does it mean that # 6 wire makes a timing light like spark to see by? I probably won't be trying it either, it seems like an unsafe place to venture into with the engine running. Just curious.

         Jim Stamper  CLC#13470

       

Bill Ingler #7799

Jim: On my 41 as well as the 47, I have always taken a small artist brush and painted refrigerator white the timing pointer as well as paint a very small line across the harmonic balancer to show the timing line. With a timing light, the painted pointer and the time line really show up. Now if you try procedure 2, with normal day lighting, I don`t believe you would have any problem seeing the timing line on the harmonic balancer without a timing light. The light from the spark I would think would be a plus if you have the pointer and timing line painted white.    Bill

pauldridge

I'll second the advisability of additional advance with today's fuels.  I've done extensive trials with my engine at various timing settings +/- the recommended, and for the last year or so have gotten great results with the timing set an additional 5 degrees advance from IGA.  Basically, with a timing light, the position would be about the same distance between TDC and the IGA mark, but further away from IGA.  Engine runs much cooler, and seems to have best power at this setting.

Phil
Austin
Phil Auldridge
Austin, TX
1940 60S as well as MGA, Stingray, '39 Ford Coupe, BMW 3.0 CS, '59 Jaguar, '51 Hudson Hornet, '64 and '70 Mercedes roadsters, and Nash-Healey LeMans Coupe
[img]http://www.auldridge.org/images/hdricon.jpg[/img]

joeceretti


Jim Stamper


     Thanks Bill;

     I always chalk the lines but I use the timing light hooked to a 12 V battery. Can't say I will try that #2 soon though, being leery of spinning fans.

     I have for years set VWs and other cars by putting the engine at TDC on # 1  on compression and moving to the advance I want on the pulley marks. Then loosening the distributer and backing it, turn on the key, and then slowly rotate the distributer the opposite way the rotor turns. When the points arc I figure I am close and tighten down the distributer locking bolt. How close I don't have a clue, but it was a technique I read about in a VW repair manual and it works with about anything in a pinch.

            Jim Stamper  CLC#13470