1941 346 valve lifter

[luv my caddy]

Question
Do I need to replace all 16 plunger assemblies? I had a broke lifter body and bad cam that I had to change out. The one plunger was seized to the body and I damaged it beyond reuse. From what I have been told from forum members the 1941+ plungers are different from the 1940-. I bought a new lifter body from Terrill but I still need the plunger assembly.

Can I just buy '1' plunger assembly and drop it in to the new body or do I need all new lifter bodies and plungers for consistency? The other 15 appear well oiled and working fine.

Is this the same plunger?? The ad is confusing. Below in the body of the ad it states it is for 41 and it looks right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cadillac-LaSalle-322-346-Valve-Lifters-PLUNGERS-1937-1948-/170893339764?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1941%7CMake%3ACadillac&hash=item27ca096c74&vxp=mtr

[Bill Ingler #7799]

If the other 15 appear to be good then use them. Several years ago I rebuilt my 41 as I had rod knock. All valves were quite. I elected though to use a set of NOS lifters so I still have to old lifters with plungers. If you would like one as pictured below it is yours for the postage. Please email me at     inglerfly@cox.net      Bill

[Bobby B]

I also have a spare plunger if you need one. If you're installing a new flat tappet cam and you're not looking to wipe it out, I would suggest you either buy new lifter bodies or at least have them resurfaced. The surface that rides on the heel of the cam is slightly curved and already worn in to the profile of your old cam. If your old cam is trashed, I wouldn't chance using any of that with a new cam until checked out by a competent machinist. Think of all the time/money you're going to have invested into this. Those lifters are matched to the bodies. You can take them out and clean them up and check to see if any are worn, scuffed, galled, etc. and you might be able to reuse the actual lifter, but after the previous damage, do you really want to put worn parts back in? Is there any reason why the lifter was seized? Maybe oil starved? Those little oil feed line fittings get clogged solid after years of use, and maybe you need to look deeper into this before you just put a new cam in and have the same problem. Problem with these engines is that everything is expensive, but I would bite the bullet if you're going to do it. Also, better check your clearance between your new cam heel and the valve stem tip. Valve stem tips might need to be ground down now from seat wear to get the exact 3" clearance. Very crucial part of setting your top end up if you want a trouble free engine. If you're doing this yourself, I have the proper spring compressor for this engine and you're more than welcome to borrow it for the postage. We did a lot of posting on this a few months back that you might want to research. Good Luck!
               Bobby

[Steve Passmore]

QuestionThe one plunger was seized to the body and I damaged it beyond reuse. From what I have been told from forum members the 1941+ plungers are different from the 1940-.

The plungers didn't change till 48.    Bills offer will get you out of a jam.

[luv my caddy]

I also have a spare plunger if you need one. If you're installing a new flat tappet cam and you're not looking to wipe it out, I would suggest you either buy new lifter bodies or at least have them resurfaced. The surface that rides on the heel of the cam is slightly curved and already worn in to the profile of your old cam. If your old cam is trashed, I wouldn't chance using any of that with a new cam until checked out by a competent machinist. Think of all the time/money you're going to have invested into this. Those lifters are matched to the bodies. You can take them out and clean them up and check to see if any are worn, scuffed, galled, etc. and you might be able to reuse the actual lifter, but after the previous damage, do you really want to put worn parts back in? Is there any reason why the lifter was seized? Maybe oil starved? Those little oil feed line fittings get clogged solid after years of use, and maybe you need to look deeper into this before you just put a new cam in and have the same problem. Problem with these engines is that everything is expensive, but I would bite the bullet if you're going to do it. Also, better check your clearance between your new cam heel and the valve stem tip. Valve stem tips might need to be ground down now from seat wear to get the exact 3" clearance. Very crucial part of setting your top end up if you want a trouble free engine. If you're doing this yourself, I have the proper spring compressor for this engine and you're more than welcome to borrow it for the postage. We did a lot of posting on this a few months back that you might want to research. Good Luck!
               Bobby

Bobby,  I did not want to .......$$$$$$$ but I agree with you.

I ordered all new assemblies.

And thanks for your replies. I appreciate the help.