Restoring Wood Veneers on door panels - 1969 Deville

[69Deville]

Has any one restored the wood veneers on the door panels? Or is there any one out there that restores them?

The wood on mine is still ok, but the veneer is shot.

Thanks!

[Bobby B]

Why don't you just re-veneer it yourself? If I recall, it's just a single flat insert, unlike the '71-up door panels which are a little more involved. Any good local cabinet maker should be able to figure out the type of wood veneer it is, match it up, and finish it to match the  factory gloss. It's not that complicated. Would actually be a fun project if you have the patience.....
                       Bobby

[69Deville]

Well my dad is a retired cabinet maker so I'll tap his shoulder. 

Wasn't sure if it was some special process.

[Bobby B]

I used to do a lot of Jag/Rolls work which is mostly Burled Walnut Veneer. Any High End Cabinet shop will have it, or can order it for you. If you're doing a full dash, surround, door panel caps, etc., you want to try and make it look like it rolls around the interior continuously and the grain follows some kind of pattern. A sheet of Exotic veneer isn't cheap. I always go and hand pick from their stock to try and find a sheet that resembles what you have going on in the vehicle you're working on. Back in the day, we used to finish it off with Deft clear lacquer. Nowadays, there are super urethanes out there. The trick is to match the original finish if you're going for a stock look. Good Luck!
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Bobby

[V63]

1969 was the last year for genuine wood...save for the later 1980’s when cadillac started up by contacting  with what appears an 8th grade wood shop 

Save yourself...I’ve had very good success with ‘Formica’...1969 is an easy one as it’s a walnut. I’ve done an intricate 1963 among others with it. Lincoln’s too. Looks totally factory.

[cadillacmike68]

If I remember correctly from the catalogs, it is "the rich look of oriental tamo wood", whatever that means. I always thought that 1969s have fake wood. The doors and inside quarters are identical to 1970, and those are definitely not real wood.

1968s used rosewood. I just stripped off the bubbling shellac and used linseed oil (same as I use on my Garands) and they look fantastic.

[69Deville]

If I remember correctly from the catalogs, it is "the rich look of oriental tamo wood", whatever that means. I always thought that 1969s have fake wood. The doors and inside quarters are identical to 1970, and those are definitely not real wood.

1968s used rosewood. I just stripped off the bubbling shellac and used linseed oil (same as I use on my Garands) and they look fantastic.

Mine look to be walnut and it is real wood. Here is a pic.

[D.Smith]

I replaced the real wood veneers on the doors of my 68 Eldorado a few years ago.    I used self adhesive veneer sheets from this place: http://www.constantines.com/peel-n-stick.aspx     It's real wood, not contact paper.

Just make a template from paper and trace it on the veneer.  The wood can be cut with a razor knife.   It is so soft you can even cut it with scissors.    But only if you have a steady hand or a bezel will cover any rough edges.    The adhesive is very strong so once on it stays!    Before installing I put on a coat of Poly to protect the new wood.   It also brought out its color a lot!     

[69Deville]

I replaced the real wood veneers on the doors of my 68 Eldorado a few years ago.    I used self adhesive veneer sheets from this place: http://www.constantines.com/peel-n-stick.aspx     It's real wood, not contact paper.

Just make a template from paper and trace it on the veneer.  The wood can be cut with a razor knife.   It is so soft you can even cut it with scissors.    But only if you have a steady hand or a bezel will cover any rough edges.    The adhesive is very strong so once on it stays!    Before installing I put on a coat of Poly to protect the new wood.   It also brought out its color a lot!     

Did you sand down the original wood and apply it directly or did you only need the thin veneer sheet?

It looks great!

[D.Smith]

Did you sand down the original wood and apply it directly or did you only need the thin veneer sheet?

It looks great!

The original wood was cracked and lifting up in places.  See below.
So I used a cutting tool and cut the old wood along the metal frame then with a putty knife scraped the old wood out and any old glue. 
Once the surface was clean and smooth I inserted my new piece that I cut to fit tightly in the same frame.

[69Deville]

That is exactly what mine is looking like. So only the veneer sheet, you didn't have to glue the veneer sheet to the original wood? If that is the case, this is looking much easier than I thought.

[D.Smith]

That is exactly what mine is looking like.   you didn't have to glue the veneer sheet to the original wood?   

The factory wood veneer is very thin just like the replacement sheet.  It was easy to cut out and remove the old veneer.   Just make sure you scrape off any old glue so you have a smooth surface to stick on the new piece.   

The project was not as hard as I thought it would be.   I used thick paper sheets to make a template over the old piece.  So get some construction paper and some tape.    After cutting out one piece, I was able to flip the template over and make the piece for the opposite door as it was reversed.      Just be sure to test fit your cut piece a few times before peeling off the backing.   Trim as needed to fit perfect.     

I applied the Poly and let it sit and dry, then peeled of the backing and carefully set it in place.  For a do it yourself project I thought it came out really well.