Janice's 1974 Persian Lime Firemist Eldo Convertible

[35-709]

There you go.   

[MaR]

With the work both of you are doing, both cars are deserving of a first in my book.

:bigthumbsup:

[hornetball]

Hahahaha!!

[hornetball]

Now that most of my parts are back on the car, it was time for some more disassembly.  The problem with rechroming the rear is it makes the front look bad.  So, off with the front bumper!  Talk about complicated, by the time I had the bumper apart, there were 10 distinct pieces to take to the chrome shop ($$$)!




The radiator was also weeping.  The replacement I sourced was generic GM and had the overflow nipple clocked incorrectly with a 5/8" heater return instead of a 3/4".  So I'm having a radiator shop in Ft. Worth fix that for me.  It's getting hard to find radiator shops these days.




Also worked on the AC system.  When I first got the car, the AC compressor seized on the drive back home, which relegated me to manual steering!  In addition to the bad compressor, I found that the thermal fuse was bad.  The fuse itself had continuity, but the heater element did not which explains why it didn't protect the compressor.  Had I been thinking, I would have pulled the compressor clutch plug to ensure it wouldn't engage while making that initial drive.  Live and learn.

While installing the new compressor, I also installed a "VIR Eliminator" from Old Air Products and replaced all O-Rings.  The "VIR Eliminator" replaces the VIR with a simple orifice on the high pressure side along with a receiver/drier on the low pressure side with a clutch cycling pressure switch.




Alas, the system won't hold a vacuum.  When I vacuum the low pressure side, I'm able to get 20" of vacuum.  But on the high pressure side I only get 9".  I suspect a bad condenser.  Planning to modify my gauges for compressed air so I can check out the system with a soap solution to show the leak(s).

[Dan LeBlanc]

Now that you have a cycling pressure switch in your a/c system, if you're replacing the system, I highly suggest using the Pro6Ten from Old Air Products.  A6 compressors are not really designed to be cycled.  I used the Pro6Ten with R-12 and the original POA valve and it cooled great.

Yes, it's true that the 77-79 Cadillacs used them with cycling systems, but, it's not ideal.

[hornetball]

I'll keep that in mind.  Should have done that in the first place, but it's too late to return the reman A6 at this point.

[MaR]

That front bumper is nice and light weight. 

[hornetball]

That front bumper is nice and light weight. 

It'll ram anything at 5mph, baby!

[Gene Beaird]

Everything's bigger in TX.   

It's still too small.  They always are!!  Even in Texas!!! 

[Gene Beaird]

<SNIP>It's getting hard to find radiator shops these days.
[<SNIP>

Finding radiator shops is easy.  Finding one that will do little more than replace the existing radiator with a universal aluminum and plastic unit is the hard part.  I found this out when the radiator on our Seville started leaking.

I ended up at a shop that does big truck radiator and intercooler repair.  He quoted me about $500 to repair what we had, but could get a 100% aluminum one for about $300.  I kept the OEM radiator, and still need to get it recored, but opted for the aluminum one.  It's pretty.     Since our Seville is not a 100%er, this was a good option. 

You're doing some awesome work here.  It incentivises me to get out and get back to our SVO restomod.  Work keeps getting in the way. 

[hornetball]

Finding radiator shops is easy.  Finding one that will do little more than replace the existing radiator with a universal aluminum and plastic unit is the hard part.

Back in the day, you could find a real radiator shop just about anywhere.  Now you have to go to a city to find one.  There just isn't that much demand anymore I guess.

In any case, went to Kirby's radiator in Fort Worth.  They clocked the filler neck, replaced the 5/8" heater return with a 3/4", pressure tested and repainted the radiator.  Charged me $45.  I'm really happy with that.  I'll use them again.

[Gene Beaird]

Back in the day, you could find a real radiator shop just about anywhere.  Now you have to go to a city to find one.  There just isn't that much demand anymore I guess.

In any case, went to Kirby's radiator in Fort Worth.  They clocked the filler neck, replaced the 5/8" heater return with a 3/4", pressure tested and repainted the radiator.  Charged me $45.  I'm really happy with that.  I'll use them again.

Indeed. In fact, the first place I took the Seville radiator to was a place that had been in business for many years, and a place I had gotten radiators recored at before. Not anymore, sadly.

[Cadman-iac]

Finding radiator shops is easy.  Finding one that will do little more than replace the existing radiator with a universal aluminum and plastic unit is the hard part.

How true!!
A lot of the reasons for this is the government's crackdown on the use of chemicals and their disposable. There aren't any chemicals needed to repair the aluminum core plastic tanked radiators.

But the old copper and brass radiators were a much better radiator.  And they cool better than the aluminum ones do, despite what a lot of the makers claim.
I spoke to  U.S.Radiator about one for my '56 and they told me flat out that the copper was better than the aluminum.

I just hope that there will still be a shop somewhere if I ever need it. It's that or I learn how to do it myself.

[hornetball]

Some updates:

1.  Took my radiator to "Kirby's Radiator" in Fort Worth.  They re-clocked my filler neck and replaced the 5/8" heater return with 3/4".  Radiator fit like a dream after that.  Cost was $45.  Would use again.

2.  Pressurized the AC system and found a leaking hose.  So I pulled the hoses and took them to Old Air Products in Fort Worth.  They are building me new hoses and, since they have mine as patterns, they'll be able to build hoses for any other Eldo that uses a VIR ('74 and '75 I think?).  Might even become a catalog item.

So, since I'm waiting for parts, I piddled.  One of the things that was missing on my car was the rear plate lift handle.  I've looked for these in junkyards, but the OEM part is made of a vinyl/plastic material that deteriorates in the sun. This is a reference photo that I found:


I decided to replicate this in metal and bought some 2" x 1/16" aluminum angle at Lowes.  I cut it to shape, added some bends and riveted it to the rear plate holder as per original.  I think it turned out pretty well.  It covers the gas cap and makes lifting the rear plate of fillups easier.  It will also never deteriorate.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Oh dear, there goes more points at judging.

Bruce.

[hornetball]

Oh dear, there goes more points at judging.

Bruce.

LOL.  Just wait until I get the Westerns mounted.  Maybe I'll get some back for the '74 license plate?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Are they the same as mine?

Bruce.

[hornetball]

Are they the same as mine?

Similar.  I found them in a junkyard and had them restored back in August.

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=154660.msg439508#msg439508

[MaR]

I have a few of those handles. They are on my list of parts to model and 3D print.

[hornetball]

They are on my list of parts to model and 3D print.

Let me know when you have them.  Every one I've ever touched in a yard crumbles in my hands.