1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[dadscad]

Stunning results! Looks great Roger.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks, Feiko and David!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The air cleaners were finished by adding the cover on the top. As first glance, an easy part to turn on the lathe but...by better looking, there are fins! Way before the 1949 model, Cadillac had already fins. I suppose they were here for the look, nothing else, but complicated my task.
On the real car, the cover is attached to the body with two nuts; on the model, they are fake because all elements are either soft soldered or glued.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Between the many trouble I had with two 1956 Hydramatic transmissions, I found some time to begin the bumpers. Except with some basic dimensions Alex D. gave me, all is done with comparisons against some (hopefully) given dimensions. I bought recently over the net 1932 drawings from a V-16; this was a waste. The drawings are inexact, therefore not helpful at all.
The chromed bumpers are attached to the bars screwed to the frame. Those bars are made with spring steel; they can resist to some brutal encounters...On the other side, the rather thick brass I'm using will not have the same characteristic!
there is a curved bar which is missing now at the front; I'm letting it open until I may have some basic dimension to get the bumper itself right.
The rear bar is attached to the frame with a very nice casting which is acting also as a support for the luggage rack. Thanks to many pictures I have from this casting, I should get it right.

[Roger Zimmermann]

It took probably three more time to set the dimensions from the caps than to made them. That's what happens when I have no dimension to compare with what I want to do! Anyway, I think I got it more or less right. Those caps are setting the width of the luggage rack, but not its length. Maybe Alex D will chime in...
When I did the frame, I was not aware of many details and did things without to care too much. This lack of comprehension is biting me now: there are four treaded holes into the rear cross member; those holes are needed to attach the front hinges of the luggage rack. Those holes have two flaws: they should be for 0.8 mm screws and not 1 mm as I did. The second error: they are not parallel to the car's axis, this can be noticed by looking at the latest pictures. I will have to rework those four holes soon...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Time is flying! After vacation, transmissions overhauling (Hydramatic 1956 and 1960), I found the time to continue with the front and rear bumpers. It may not be quite visible on the pictures, the metal is not flat but gently convex. The supports were done with spring steel, allowing for some flexibility. I have however the impression that those bumpers were more for the look as really solid; maybe I'm wrong.
The screw in the centers is there until the real parts are done.
In between, I had  a good contact with Paul Ayres who is restoring a 1933 convertible, the same body (V-8, V-12 and V-16 has the same bodies, only the front end is different) as I intend to begin once.
As those cars had a lot of wood in the body's construction, it would be fun to make the floor with the same material: easier, not so heavy but will create a lot of dust!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last small part was added on both bumpers. They are now ready, but don't have yet the finish for plating.
I'm now beginning the rear luggage rack. Easy part? Not quite because both sides are visible. A stamping would be great, but the tooling too complex for just one piece. I will have to be creative...

[Roger Zimmermann]

I began with the smaller part from the luggage rack as the larger one is more complex. I did the base on which four apertures were done. The, inserts were pushed into the apertures and soft soldered.
The inserts on the attached picture will be used for the next part.
A much thicker piece of brass could have been shaped to look good when extended, but without the details at the back.

 

[Roger Zimmermann]

When the brain is disconnected, damages will happen! By doing the second part for the package tray, I was certainly dreaming: I assumed that the elongated holes have the same dimensions on both parts. When I wanted to begin the inner holes, I saw that something is not right, the space between the inner holes are too large. By looking at the various pictures I have from that package tray, I saw that the holes for the larger part are indeed wider and the space between them are the same on both parts. At first glance they all look the same, but not if measured.
This is one picture from an original tray:



and my both parts. I simulated the inner holes with black paint; the wider space between them is obvious.



One more part for the horror museum![

[Philou2]

Hi Roger,
can't you correct it by plugging the bad holes with tin and making others to suit your needs?
Well, if I understood the problem correctly, which is not certain...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Philippe, thanks for your suggestion! Indeed, there is an insert into each hole (in fact, only 3, I stopped when I noticed my error). You are right, I could unsold the three inserts which are done, make the holes larger and solder new inserts. I'm afraid the base plate could not survive that operation because I had some difficulties while I was soldering the second insert. I decided to go back to the beginning. It just takes some time...

[Philou2]

Ok, I understand, depending on the size of the part, a little too much heat and everything starts leaking... right?

[Roger Zimmermann]

In this case not leaking, but distorting...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Finally, the larger grille from the rack is finished. I put a light coat of primer as raw brass is getting oxidized rather quickly.
Now, the fun will begin with the hinges and other small details.
The attached pictures are showing both sides from the grilles.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The emblem for the luggage rack I'm doing now is a perfect example for a 3-D printer. I don't have one and never will, so I had to be creative to shape the various parts. I did first the ring which will be inserted into the rack, then the "V". As I did an error, I had to begin a second one...Then came the question: how can I do both numbers? I began with the "1", taking a bit brass much larger than the finish item. I adjusted that cube on the V by filing a groove and then by reducing the cube's dimension till the "1" emerged. Of course, it could not stand alone on the V because the base was small and irregular. It was then the turn for the "6" by using the same process. The holes for that number were drilled with a 0.4 mm bit and a very thin file removed the unneeded metal between the holes.
Fortunately, the "6" had a larger base and could be silver soldered on the "V". A fixture was made to temporarily attach the "1" to the "6" and was also silver soldered. Fortunately, both numbers are pointing in the right direction; the space between them is just a bit too wide.
Of course, the numbers are not protruding as much as on the pictures; they were that tall for ease of manutention. This will be corrected before the ring will be soldered.

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Roger, WOW! As usual simply astounding.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Ralph!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The luggage rack emblem is now ready. I'm not sure if I will be able to polish it more for plating. Due to the shape, it could be wise to let it plate with nickel instead of chrome. With the chrome, the outer ring will be shiny, but the chrome may not reach the second ring nor the sides of the numbers. The plater will tell me...
Now, I can continue with the various rack's hinges.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The luggage rack must now be attached to the frame. There are two supports attached to the frame (the fuel tank cover is indeed between the frame and the supports; it's not yet done) and an hinge is attached to the first smaller part of the rack. I have numerous pictures from both parts but all were shot in perspective, therefore it's difficult to calculate the dimensions. Those small pieces are also difficult to fabricate as, as castings, they are irregular in shape and can mostly only held with the fingers to be worked. And, when they are ready, they are slippery!
All the brackets from the rack are attached with oval heads; I went recently to a store selling watch's screws; I found none suitable for my needs, therefore I will have to make them. Fortunately, I found a 0.8mm die. Easy model? Nope!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The first tread I tried to do with the new die was a flop: it snaps off during the work...I had to drill what was into the die and patiently could remove the remaining brass...The second try was better: I used a slightly small diameter and used lubricant.
This "success" allowed me to do both pivots for the rack hinges; in between, I had made the hinges which are connecting both halves from the luggage rack.
The next tricky job was to drill the holes into the rack elements for the hinges. Those parts are now assembled but with the wrong screws; I have to make them; the head is the oval one.
The next task will not be easy: doing the rod supporting the rear half from the rack. If the luggage rack should not be stored when not in use, there would be no problem. But, with the movement needed to store the rack, the rod's length and its pivoting point at the rack will be found with trial and an adjustable rod. When both variables are found, then I can do the definitive rods and drill the rear rack.
Confused by my explication? Thre will be soon pictures from that.