1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Big Fins]

I can't imagine the level of patience that you must have, Roger.

The word 'amazing' can only be used so many times.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for your comments!
Like everybody, I have some shortcomings, but patience is one of my virtues!

[59-in-pieces]

Roger,

Just extraordinary.

Did I say just.

NO! EXTRAORDINARY in every respect.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Steve!

The first part I did for the grill surround was indeed the last soldered on the assembly.



I had to trim it to the correct aperture and open the device into which the cover for the crank's hole will be attached.
Then, I assembled the shutter assembly to the radiator. Fortunately, there was no interference between the surround and the shutter assembly, but the space at the lower corners is tight. Of course, when a grille will be installed, the position of the blades will not be adjustable!



Some elements are still to be done: the hood ornament (won't be easy), the emblem at the front of the radiator, the cover for the crank (the V-16 could not be started with a crank, the lower radiator frame is closing the passage) and the grille. I already know that I will not be able to do the grille myself. The squares are too small for the solution I used for the Mark II. Probably it could be done with 3-D printing; maybe somebody has a better idea.



Anyway, the task now is to continue with the hood. I will do the brackets for the hood top hinge; one will be attached at the cowl and the other on the radiator's surround.

[cadman59]

Perhaps you could etch the grill?
Or have it etched.

[Roger Zimmermann]

It's also a possibility. I don't know if the process can give crisp lines; the holes are .6 mm wide...I will have to inquire.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Since a long time, I had questions about how to do the top hood's hinges. The original system is using a miniature hog trough which is attached to the body and radiator by a simple bracket. The hood panels are "rotating" in that channel (which was probably not without grinding as the cars aged).
Knowing my limitations, I decided that I was unable to make such a long channel to mimic the original system. Instead, the hood will have pins inserted into the modified brackets.  The inconvenient compared to the original system: the upper panels will probably only open at 90° when to original ones can rest on the other hood panel (with maybe paint issue).



My solution would not be usable in reality: after a short time, the hood would fly away as the brackets would not be strong enough for the task. With the speeds expected for my model, I'm on a sure side!
Before I could do the second bracket at the cowl, I needed to locate firmly the radiator in relation to the cowl. It was the time to do the tie rods attaching the radiator to the cowl.



If the length can be adjusted on the real cars with the large nut near the cowl, the rods are not adjustable on the model. As the cowl cover is not installed, I added two distance tubes as a compensation.

[Roger Zimmermann]

During a body construction, it's not always possible to drill all the needed holes. It's the case with the rear hood's hinge bracket.  Once the bracket was built, it could be used as a template for the holes. The pictures are reflecting how they were done...The small vice was used as a stop for the rear bumper, allowing the model to be stabilized.



All three holes could be drilled, the drill bit survived and the holes are at the right place! The screws at the front and rear brackets are not the right ones, they will be replaced by flat head screws to have the needed clearance.



Now, the hinged blades can be attached to a corner rail which will be soldered to the top hood panels. I will be busy for the next few days!

[Roger Zimmermann]

On the original cars, the hood panels are riveted to the rails. For practical reasons, this method is not convenient. At first, I intended to insert the screws from the outside side or from under the hood, but the screws from the watch industry are a tad too long; they would interfere with the other side, so I modified the first panel to insert the screws from the center. I had to mill a recess for the heads; I'm glad I did it that way because with those small screws, it's imperative to be perpendicular with the screwdriver to have a chance to tighten them.
By the way, by measuring the screws, I saw that the diameter is 0.9 mm and not 1mm as I first believed, an unusual dimension. Fortunately, I found a correct tap in Germany.



The second picture is showing the maximum aperture from the hood. On the original cars, the hood can rest on the other halve.

The next step: doing the piano hinges for the side panels. The one strip I bought somewhere is way too large to be useful. 

[billyoung]

Your work is world class. One thought that comes to mind is when the original car was constructed I would imagine the factory installed some rubber stops/body interference material or of some kind to keep the hood components from rubbing paint away during driving/flexing of the body and also for protection during opening the hood for maintenance. I would think on a quality restored car that material location and kind would show in photos. Perhaps that might explain why and how the hood was able to work the way designed ? Just a thought, you are obviously the expert.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Bill!
Indeed, there is some padding at the radiator shell and on the firewall on which the hood panels are resting.
However the hinge construction at the hood's top on the original cars is allowing the panels to go further. I explained in my previous message why I cannot do that.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The book from Gerald Wingrove was somewhat useful to build the piano hinges, but at the end, I had to find myself the best way to do them.
First, I had to determine which diameter for the long pin. I chose 0.5 mm. Then I tried to do a short hinge piece with brass 0.1 and 0.2 mm thick. The thinner one was indeed too thin. Then, it was an annoying job filing the 4 brass bands.



 Shape the brass around the 0.5 mm pin was less boring; finally, I had both pairs.



As you can see, the strips are not installed the way a "normal" piano hinge is done. I saw that way of assembly on the many Johan's pictures from the Netherlands.

The next question was: how to attach the strips to both hood's elements?
I attempted to shape a 90° bend on one strip, but it failed. I had to solder a strip at the hood's sides to be able to solder a flat strip.



Then, the singular way to assemble the hinges was clear: the second strip could be soldered on the hood's top without added construction.



Now, one half of the hood is ready; I still have to trim the bottom; it can only be done when the fenders are installed.



In between, I'm doing the other hood's side.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The hood is basically finished; I added the molding at the upper panels. As I wrote earlier, once the front fenders are done, I will be able to trim the bottom of the side panels. It will be then the time to add the handles to lift the hood and the hood fasteners.

[cadman59]

Looks really terrific!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Feiko!

[Big Fins]

I can't think of a descriptive word that even comes close to doing work such as this any justice at all.

So, Roger, I'll just say "Magnificent".

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks John!

Most cars from this time had a dust shield in front of the radiator; this steel piece add some aesthetic at the front by covering the frame rails. Of course, the 1932 had one but I had only few info on that. I took some dimensions from the Monogram 1:24 kit; the rest was more or less improvised. I did first a wood buck to shape the sides which were done in two pieces and soldered together in the middle after the shape was acceptable. Then, I added the necessary pieces to have a rather decent element.



1932 Cadillacs had an elaborate molding at the fenders and at that shield.



It seems that it was a nightmare for the body shops repairing those cars; I understand why! I will attempt to replicate that style gadget; I'm not sure if I will succeed.

[cadman59]

It seems that it was a nightmare for the body shops repairing those cars; I understand why! I will attempt to replicate that style gadget; I'm not sure if I will succeed.

Do not say that Roger; I would be disappointed if you won't...  .

[Roger Zimmermann]

Feiko, thanks for the incentive! I hope you will not be disappointed...

Could I do that double molding at the bottom of the shield? I had to try by using a 0.5 and a 1.4 mm (0.02 and 0.055") strips which I modified to get half round profiles. If removing material from the "thick" rod was easy, it was more delicate with the 0.5 mm one...
First, I silver soldered the small rod and then the thicker rod was soft soldered. Even if it's not perfect, the result is not too bad.
The original shield has two brackets on each side to secure the shield to the frame. I decided I will not do them because to install/remove the shield, I should bend the brackets. As that part will be clamped by the bumper support, there will be no vibration during usage!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Without running boards, it would be very difficult to climb into a car from that time. Those elements are wide and long, they must be robust to support 2 heavy weight persons!
There is one bracket at each side of the frame, supporting the front of the running boards; the rear is supported by the rear fenders.
The way those running boards are manufactured is looking like an agricultural device with heavy "U" profiles welded at the back.



Those parts were not too difficult to replicate; I also could include the double molding at the bottom; therefore, I will be forced to include them at the front and rear fenders...Thanks to Johan Boltendal for some critical dimensions!



There is a rubber mat on top of the running boards; it would be logical to do them also with silicone rubber, but I will do them with brass strips painted matt black. My choice is dictated by two aspects: the mold for the mat should be perfectly regular and I'm not sure to get it, and the silicone rubber cannot be glued on a metal support, or I don't know how.
The running boards are at some distance from the body; a plate will be done to close the gap, but I'm missing the distance between body and running boards, see the explaining picture.



On the original parts, almost everything is attached by screws. On the model, those elements are/will be soft soldered.
Recently, Paul Ayres from Cadillac club sent me some dimensions for the body I asked for; if my estimates were not too bad, it's way better to work with actual dimensions!