1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

Once an element is ready, the question is always: and now, with what can I continue? I rejected the idea to do the doors because for that, the body must be definitively attached to the floor. So, the trunk lid was the next option, because for the moment, the access is facilitated as the body is without the floor. However, there is a dilemma: the trunk lid is pivoting at a busing attached to a vertical bar screwed at the floor and at the body.
With the drawing I did for the body, I tried to locate the turning point for the lid, using a piece of cardboard. The pivoting point I found to be adequate will be further back compared to the real car. Probably many estimates about the dimensions were not accurate; that the consequences when working mostly from pictures.
I began with the flanges and gutter at the body and the flanges at the trunk lid. All those elements are glued to the resin with Araldite.
I will now do the trunk lock and striker, even before the hinges are born...

[Wilson09]

I am in awe of your talent and patience. Can't wait to see it done. This definitely needs to be on display somewhere when you finish.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Wilson09! You will have to wait some time till it's done!

Even if the locks used on that car were primitive, I had trouble with the trunk lid lock due to the tight place. My first design was wrong; the second a bit better and things improved with the third version.
The first issue was the attachment of the ferrule to the lid. By cutting two slots, I used a bayonet system as a large nut, like I did at the side door, was impractical. As a spring inside the channel to push the locking bolt was not practical, I did one external to the channel. As the seat back will hide everything, I could take some liberties. As some parts will be chrome plated, the whole assembly must be R & R without too much trouble.
Now, I will do a striker which should be adjustable; another challenge! 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Doing hinges for a regular door or lid require a pivoting point following some rules. Those rules cannot be applied to a rumble seat deck lid.
The lid must be as far back as possible when open and clear the floor during the opening. To find that ideal pivoting point, I used a bit of cardboard having the outer shape of the lid and a copy of my body's drawing. It was then a search to find the best point using a sharp needle.



You can see how many points I tried until I found the best one.
Then I did a temporary bracket glued on a side channel from the lid and a stationery bracket with wood glued on the wheel house, using the location I found with the drawing. It seems that my search was not too bad; I can now make the definitive parts.



The stationery bracket will be attached at the body and at the floor, a challenging situation...

[Roger Zimmermann]

As anticipated, the hinges for the trunk were not easy to do. When the body was installed on the floor, I could not do any drilling; I had to glue the upper attachment points as a temporary measure, mark where the holes should be, remove the body from the floor as well as the glued parts and do that circus 5 or 6 times until all was set. The result? Both hinges are not equal, creating a larger gap on the left side than on the right one when the lid is open.



I could redo all the involved parts, but it's not sure that the result would be better. At least, the lid can be opened and closed.



The side to side play will be adjusted with distance tubes.
I have now to do the striker, which will most probably be soldered to the structure, as a removable/adjustable striker is totally unpractical when the body will be completed.

[Ragnar]

This is very impressive.