ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP

[Chasmann]

I want to install a 6v Airtek 8902 in a 1936 series 60 .I want to use this to help start after long periods of sitting.Has anyone used this model number or something similar.Thanks in advance Charlie M.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

I don't know the part # off the top of my head but we have an Airtex as a continuous duty pump in our 55. 2700 miles or so now and no problems.
Jeff

[harry s]

I just finished putting one on my '37, same brand and part number. Before installing the car would have to be primed to start if it had been sitting over a week to ten days. It had been sitting for about a month this time and after running the electric pump for about  15 seconds it started right up. The electric source is controlled by the ignition key through an on/off switch..     Harry

[Jim Miller]

Harry is correct. Running the pump for about 15 seconds is just enough. Both cars are set up with a bypass so the mechanical pump doesn't have to pull gas through the electric pump when it's not running.

[z3skybolt]

My experience echos that of Harry S.  I have a manual on/off switch for my AirTex and only need to use it when experiencing vapor lock or prior to start up.  It cannot be turned on unless the ignition key is also on.   1940 LaSalle.  Over 6,000 miles and 3+ years.

Bob R.

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

I have an Airtex 8902 on my 1940 LaSalle. Smartest thing I ever did with the car. Cured its vapor lock problem and starts fast no matter how long it has been sitting. I run mine in series with the mechanical pump. The 8902 is the lowest pressure 6 volt pump, so no regulator is needed.

[cadillacmike68]

I also use an inline Airtex to pump fuel when the car has been sitting a number of days. I have it on a toggle switch, but sometimes I forget to shut it off. 

It really reduces wear on the starter.

[39LaSalleDriver]

Ditto to most of what everyone here has said. I run an Airtex e8902 on my 39 LaSalle and love it. You can get them for $30 on Amazon, and I also keep a spare in the trunk just in case. I also use a toggle switch that I can turn on or off at will, and wired it to run off the ignition switch so that it doesn't run if the car isn't running. I have found that during the hot months it is best leave it on all the time, and when cool season starts I shut it off and only use it when necessary. Works great for me. I run mine in series because contrary to what I have read some people say on various forums, the Airtex e8902 is designed to NOT put any drag on the fuel supply when it is not running (no offense to Jim, but the pump you show in your photo is not the Airtex e8902 pump we are all recommending here). Perhaps a few years ago with older design pumps it was necessary, but these days there is no need to run a parallel fuel line, any sort of bypass, or any type of regulator. In fact, the only concern that has crossed my mind is the possibility that the constant pressure from it MAY damage the diaphragm on the mechanical pump over time. But so far, I have not experienced any difficulty with that. Even if it does and I have to rebuild the mechanical after a couple of years, the payoff is well worth the benefits the Airtex provides.

[cadillacmike68]

The one that I have in my 68 is an Airtex E8090. Very similar to the E8902. It's been in the car for almost 5 years now.

Mine is a 12 volt and the OP needs a 6 volt which is what the E8902 is. Only difference that I can tell. Airtex model numbers make no sense to me.

[Bill Ingler #7799]

The pump that Jim Miller shows in his picture is a Carter vain type pump. I helped the previous owner of Jim`s car build and install that pump set up. I still have this Carter set up on my 47. We built this, probably 15 years ago, on several other Cadillacs in the Phoenix area. The Airtex pumps were not yet available and today I would use the Airtex rather than the Carter. The Carter pump is a vain type pump and when the vain pump is not running, the engine fuel pump will not pull fuel from the tank through the Carter pump without the bypass you see in the picture.   Bill

[TJ Hopland]

The airtex style most people are talking about is more or less an electric version of the mechanical pump.  Its got an in and out check valve and a diaphragm piston sort of thing.  The mechanical one its driven by a cam the electric is a solenoid.  The way the valves work as long as the flow is in the correct direction it will flow.

[Scot Minesinger]

Contrary to other posters, I would stay with the original factory set up.  My 1970 Cadillac (similar to 1968 owned by Mike) it takes a few more cranks if it has not been started for a while, but that give the oil a little more time to circulate before it fires up.  It is rare that a week goes by without me starting it.  However, one time three weeks went by and started up no issue. 

The problem with a fuel pump is it just takes one idiot to leave it on when it should not be, accident, and etc.  Not a fan due primarily to safety.  I know, there are some work arounds and there will be replies to this saying I'm all wrong, but you have my point of view. 

Hats off to Harry for plumbing it in all metal without rubber hoses.

[bcroe]

Yes safety is very important.  The most basic approach to an
electric pump for priming, is to power it from an ignition source, and
to use a momentary push button so the pump stops as soon as you
let go.  For pumps supplying the engine continuously, the pump
should be controlled by engine revolutions, usually tied to an oil
pressure switch.  EFI systems have pump control built in.  Bruce Roe

[cadillacmike68]

Contrary to other posters, I would stay with the original factory set up.  My 1970 Cadillac (similar to 1968 owned by Mike) it takes a few more cranks if it has not been started for a while, but that give the oil a little more time to circulate before it fires up.  It is rare that a week goes by without me starting it.  However, one time three weeks went by and started up no issue. 

The problem with a fuel pump is it just takes one idiot to leave it on when it should not be, accident, and etc.  Not a fan due primarily to safety.  I know, there are some work arounds and there will be replies to this saying I'm all wrong, but you have my point of view. 

Hats off to Harry for plumbing it in all metal without rubber hoses.

Scot is right about being safe.

Mine is wired to the ignition, so key off = no electric pump. It also has a toggle switch which I Usually remember to shut off, but even if I don't - please refer to the previous sentence.

Even with using the pump, if the car has sat for a week it still takes 3-4 seconds to start. That's enough time for the oil to get moving.

Lastly, 1968 QuadraJets were more prone to leakdown and evaporation than 1970 ones. I would have to send my QJet to Cliff Ruggles for a permanent repair solution.

[Chasmann]

Thanks for all the replies.I am going with the Airtek 8902.It will be used just to supplement from long lay overs.I plan on using an illuminated toggle switch therefore making sure i shut it off also tying into the ignition switch.Once again thanks for the help.Charlie M.

[signart]

Yes safety is very important.  The most basic basic approach to an
electric pump for priming, is to power it from an ignition source, and
to use a momentary push button so the pump stops as soon as you
let go.  For pumps supplying the engine continuously, the pump
should be controlled by engine revolutions, usually tied to an oil
pressure switch.  EFI systems have pump control built in.  Bruce Roe

Anyone considering an electric pump to supplement cold starts or filling fuel bowl should pay attention to the post above.

[z3skybolt]

All good advise. But the problem with a push button switch that must be held in for operation is vapor lock. When you experience vapor lock with your 36...and you will....your electric pump will be your salvation. Trying to drive with one hand on the wheel another shifting gears and a finger holding in the pump button could prove to be a greater danger than "somehow" leaving the pump energized after shutting the engine down and turning the ignition off.

To each his own. HAPPY MOTORING.

Bob R.

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Bob R: Your right on with not using a push button to control the aux pump. I installed my aux pump many years ago and the primary reason was to control vapor lock. I can`t imagine driving from Phoenix at 2200 MSL, climbing north to the Flagstaff area at 6-8000 MSL with my finger continually holding the push button switch on to eliminate the potential vapor lock. I have made this climb enough times to know I need to keep the aux pump on the whole drive to control vapor lock. My toggle switch, which I have wired through the ignition switch, works for me.  Bill

[bcroe]

The button is for filling the carb.  I fixed vapor lock with a fuel return
line/pump setup, added it to cars that did not already have it.  I
recommended using the oil pressure switch control for a continuous
running pump.  Bruce Roe

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Bruce: I understand you use the button only to fill the lines before starting the engine but please explain how you fixed your cars to prevent valor lock. Can your method be used on the flat head engine of my 47?  Thanks  Bill