Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Lovely new garden bed in front of the car.  

Bruce.

High iron content.

[Clewisiii]

I need smaller hands. Big washer split washer and nut upside down with limited access.

I don't know why they could not put a motor mount access hole directly under.

[Clewisiii]

Well I got one side on. A fight with this side. I have used a pair of clamps to try to compress the stack enough to get some threads exposed for the nut. 

But I am now sweating and it is lunch time. 

[Clewisiii]

Now that I am on to reassembly, I need to buy a couple of new torque wrenches.  I do not want to pass by anything until I know it is correct.

One other benefit to getting these bolts in place, the bags and boxes are emptying and going away.

[Clewisiii]

Just setting things in place and verifying all nuts and bolts. 

I think I am going to replate tfd generator fan and pulley. They have been sitting for 6 years and I don't think I had a good coating on them originally.

[Clewisiii]

Remembering what I started with.  Unfortunately I was so excited in the beginning, when I thought I could break the engine free, that I did not take a lot of pictures of all the things on the front of the engine.  THis is really the only shot I have. And it does not show much.



The rest of my pictures all start here.

[Clewisiii]

I guess it is time to remove the disc brakes and clean this up again. I replaced the bearings and pinion seal years ago. But I think I dented the seal so I worry it will leak. I think I will bring this to a shop to go over it and make sure everything is perfect.

I decided I am going to keep the drums on the rear. So I need to go through all those components. The disk kit fits the original wheels but they push them out 3/4 on each side so the gap to the fender skirts is to small for me.

[Clewisiii]

I will need a new drive shaft cut.

I know the original has one side with an inner and outer with a rubber between them. I assume this resists vibration in driving.

I am told a new cut one will not have this type.

 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

You are correct.   The original rear shaft consisted of two tubes, with a rubber sleeve keeping the two apart.   The pictured one used 4 sleeves.   This is usually found on upmarket, and long wheelbase cars where the actual driving feel is really quietened.

This sleeve never wears out, and without the proper tools, is impossible to replicate.   The assembly is similar to that of a harmonic balancer, where the rubber separates the hub from the outer ring.

I have had a couple of these apart, just to see what is there, and I would hate to try and imagine the pressures required to assemble them.   

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

My distributor has been rebuilt and recurved on its way back to me.

That should be in soon.   

I will be asking certain questions about setting the timing soon.

[Clewisiii]

Laying out parts I am hoping to have sand blasted over the next few weeks. 

I will need to do metal work on a few parts. Then they will be powder coated. 

The sandblaster has recommended I try to burn off all the undercoating before they blast.

[Clewisiii]

I finally managed to get the nut on the top of this link.  Only took three tries.

I will still need to torque it eventually

[Clewisiii]

Took a minute to press that hub out. At first I thought I was doing something wrong.

I will not need the front drums with the hubs. But I decided I might as well restore the parts. The drums are common with rear anyway so I will have spares.

[Clewisiii]

Well I got a few lines from Inline tube.  They appear to be mostly correct. Only a couple of bends I need to manipulate.


However the vacuum advance line was very wrong. I will need to deal with that.


Does anyone know if the choke tube into the intake should be tight. Because this one is loose fitting

[Clewisiii]

I just need to find my pictures on which goes top and bottom.



Then put a slight bend on this side.


I think there is a clamp to I have to locate.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I've ordered from Inline before and had to modify both pieces.  I have a feeling they're about 80% accurate with their bends.

[Clewisiii]

Well here is how the tubes come out from under the engine.



And here is the location of the clamp.




The clamp is a pass through hole, and the only bolt I know of near that location would be an oil pan bolt. But I do not think that is right. I will need to jack up my parts car to get a look.

[Clewisiii]

Really the only spot that looks correct would be an oil pan bolt. 


I was missing one when I tore down the engine. Maybe I had removed one when I took off this bracket.

[Clewisiii]

If the attachment is an oil pan bolt that would make sense that this has a non threaded pass through bolt. It acts as a spacer to get around the lip of the oil pan.

[Clewisiii]

My passion is always in the details. These random little things I often find more pleasure in them the big stuff.  A simple AC hose bracket.