Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Well flex lock seem to be harder to get so I might switch these out with stover

[Cadman-iac]

  You may want to take another look at the bolts that those go on too, just to be sure that the threads haven't been damaged from the stripped nuts being run back down onto them.


 Rick

[Clewisiii]

You may want to take another look at the bolts that those go on too, just to be sure that the threads haven't been damaged from the stripped nuts being run back down onto them.


 Rick

I looked at the bolt threads and they are fine

[Clewisiii]

I got my flex plate nuts installed. Calls for 20 ft pounds but that seems light. 

I am getting ready to install the inspection covers. But I have a quick question.

There is a bent tab with a whole below the starter mount. There is no corresponding hole in the bell housing.  Does anyone know what uses this hole as an attachment. I assume it would need a j nut.

[Clewisiii]

I bought my ground strap from Caddy Daddy. Neither hole is large enough for the starter or frame hole. Now I question if the length is right. It has difficulty going around the oil filter.

I may buy another ground strap and test my luck if it turns out to be the same.

[Clewisiii]

I think I remember the starter ground going to the upper starter bolt.  And Jason confirmed the 63 and 64 uses the upper starter bolt. 


But this ground strap lays over the lower starter bolt hole in a much better profile. You will have to trust me on that. I did not drill out the hole on the ground strap there yet.

[Clewisiii]

Stepping back from the ground strap for now. Time to lay out and actually install the carb.

I have non hardening fuel resistant gasket sealant.  Gasket for above and below insulator.

The 61 manual has no diagram for install, only text. But the self starter has an image from 59 with diagram.

I question the gaskets. They have an opening between the two forward holes. So that will create a cavity above and below the insulator that is solid in this area. Don't know if that will cause a problem. 



So any pointers for installing the carb. Or questions about the gaskets please share.

[Clewisiii]

This is just a wix filter to get me through break in. I think the original PF24 I will get eventually is narrower so I should have more clearance for the ground strap. I had to drill out both sides of the ground strap go mount. Then sand down a contact area below the connection.

[Clewisiii]

I just love pictures. Waiting on a rear trans coolant tube bracket from Jason Edge. I got the front in place and an appropriate bend in that area.

[Clewisiii]

Carb gooped up and bolted down.  Vac lines all in place. May need to finally tighten later. 




I need to buy a stainless steel tumbling media to clean up the brass fittings for the fuel lines.

[Clewisiii]

The parts store coil fits. The Caddy Reproductions coil did not.

I can start laying out my wiring now. I ordered a date coded set of spark plug wires from Lectric Limited.

[Clewisiii]

If the fenders were on these wire connections would be very hard to make.  I do not have a lift to easily go underneath. 




And when the time comes this side exhaust pipe might be difficult to position.  Does not leave a lot of room around the coolant lines. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Carl,

I question the need for any gasket cement on or under the Carburettor Gaskets.

If ever you need to remove the Carby for any reason, it will eventuate in destroying the non-ferous spacer/insulator when trying to get things apart.

In all my years, I have never read where any gasket cement is required, nor had any problems in removing any carby for service.   Some paper gaskets will tear, but the metal ones in most cases can be reused.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

G'day Carl,

I question the need for any gasket cement on or under the Carburettor Gaskets.

If ever you need to remove the Carby for any reason, it will eventuate in destroying the non-ferous spacer/insulator when trying to get things apart.

In all my years, I have never read where any gasket cement is required, nor had any problems in removing any carby for service.   Some paper gaskets will tear, but the metal ones in most cases can be reused.

Bruce.

It is not cement. It is a non hardening sealant made for this purpose.  The intake surface was pitted and shown evidence that is was leaking under the base of the insulator when I took it apart originally.  I wanted something to close it up and help seal those pits.

[mario]

I use long grain wheel bearing grease on both sides of the gasket. Never had a vacuum leak.
Ciao,
Mario Caimotto

[6262]

It is not cement. It is a non hardening sealant made for this purpose.  The intake surface was pitted and shown evidence that is was leaking under the base of the insulator when I took it apart originally.  I wanted something to close it up and help seal those pits.

Carl, what is the name of the product?

[Clewisiii]

I will need to buy a new voltage regulator.  But i tried cleaning up and painting the cover of my old one to keep the Delco Remy embossing.

It is to far gone. To many pits.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There just aren't replacements for the internal baffle.

Which can be done twisting a stainless steel band.

[Clewisiii]

Jason Edge came through with a rear trans coolant line clamp. I love the details. I will install it after work today.

[Clewisiii]

I received my radiator hoses from Caddy Daddy today.  I also dropped off my radiator core support and other parts at the powdercoater today. 

I will need to find a way to mount the radiator without the body for the rear attachment.


I also got a top of core support battery cable clip.  But it is terrible quality. It is an SLA which is very brittle and has a texture like sandpaper.  At $40 for the clip I am a little disappointed.  I had a perfect condition but yellowed original. But it was lost when I sent it to someone who wanted to reproduce them.  I have always suspected he just kept it.  But oh well