Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

Dave, by knobs do you mean the stalks. Because these will at least need to be chrome but I cannot get them apart.

[David King (kz78hy)]

Yes, those knobs.  I would talk to Dennis and see if he has the molds for '61.  If he does, you can remove them.  Place the assemblies in boiling water to soften the plastic and they pull straight off.  I checked McVey's and they have up to 1960 for new knobs and chromed ends, but not 61 and I don't know if they are different.  I bought McVey's 55 knob set and used the new chrome parts and Dennis' molded knobs.  If Dennis does not have 61 knobs, you can ask him to make some and provide yours as the pattern.  He can advise, but I would not remove them if you run that play.

[Clewisiii]

Dave, that was Warren Gear and Axle you had recommended correct. They told me this is all I will need to bring in so that is a lot less weight.

[David King (kz78hy)]

Yes, Warren gear is the shop I recommended to you.

[Clewisiii]

My original glove box lock housing was broken. And I know these are hard to source.

I got lucky that my parts car lock housing was good.

But when I look between them, and the spring tab inside, I do not see what is physically broken on the first one.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

It looks like the top one, the press button comes out further than the lower one.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Well I got about half way through my CAM breakin when I scared myself.

In the end everything looks good.

No more fuel leak so I started it.
Oil PSI 28
RPM 2800-3500
Block around 180F
Exhaust manifold 430F

Some smoke from exhaust and draft pipe at first, but it all cleared up.

I had a my dad near by as another set of ears to see if you can hear any issues. We both agree this engine sounds good. Even at 2500 rpm it did not seem like it was loud at all to me. I was questioning the Tachometer a bit.

But then I saw a lot of liquid on the ground near my gas can and was worried I had a fuel leak at my can or fuel line. So I shut it off.

No it was just water. So I looked around at my hoses to see if I had a leak. I could not find anything then was temporarily worried I lost a freeze plug. Then I realized I was an idiot and remembered it has an overflow tube. I could not remember how much water was in it but I filled the radiator with another 1/2 gallon of water before I started. That was all it was.

I will run this again with a bucket under it.

[Clewisiii]

I got in my whole half hour of breakin time. Carrying from 2500-3500 RPM then drop to 2000 and 600 cool off cycle before shutdown. The battery powered meter out itself off every 10 minutes and each time I turned it back on I had to switch the settings from 2 stroke back to 4 stroke. But I am happy. It sounded beautiful the whole time it was running.


No more water ejection this time. I almost made a mistake as the exhaust was heating up. I looked down and my oil pressure gauge hose was on the muffler. But I got it just as it started to smoke.

The manifolds were floating in the mid 500s heated up this pipe nicely.

When I did my engine priming I had the valve cover off to check for oil flow. It leaked out this back corner. For the first 15 minutes of running there was a steady little stream of smoke from this back corner. I guess I worked all that off.

The intake manifold paint started to cook in the center. But I expected that. This is the hot spot.

I started to get an oil leak at my oil pressure gauge port. But not enough to bug me. I need to put the pressure sending unit back in anyway now that I know everything is good.



I tried using my shopvac hose to direct exhaust out the door. That didn't last long. I just left the big door wide and turned on my spray booth exhaust fan.

And yes I did burn my calf on the exhaust pipe once as I was leaning over to adjust the throttle. I was doing so good and I finally touched it at the very end when I throttled down for cool off. I watched the block heat up to a max 195 before regulating itself back down to mid 180. I am happy.

[Clewisiii]

Quick question for the group. I had my generator hooked up. And I had it tested after I rebuilt it 6 years ago. But I never verified it was charging the battery before my breakin.

Would the battery have kept the car running for the whole half hour if it was not charging.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Carl,

Firstly, congratulations on getting the Cam Running-in done, and now you can understand why an owner should not be around when doing this.   It is scary for the first-timer.

There was no reason to vary the revs over the 2,000 to 2,500 as it is not necessary to perform the task at hand.

Plus, when completing the task, don't let the engine idle, just turn it off.

As you have witnessed, the temperatures can get really unbelievable at times, which is why I always recommend anyone doing procedures like this, have a look at what a normal engine and once you see the temperatures, you will see that these are not unusual.

Without the charging system working, the engine will run just on a battery for many hours, as the Ignition on its' own doesn't draw that much, unlike headlights when driving at night.   Years ago, I had to drive my road car some 30 miles when the Generator died, and using the headlights sparingly, I was able to get home with no problems.

Now, your next task with the engine is to "Bed the Rings in" when able to get the car on the road.   BUT, don't leave it for too long, as you could end up having to replace the Head Gaskets as these need longer to obtain a complete sealing of the surfaces to the heads/block.   I know, as I had the problem with a car I restored.   Ran the Cam in, but events happened that the Bedding in didn't get done for another 5 years, and the head gaskets leaked coolant.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

These door handle trim pieces are my biggest fear for rechroming costs.

Multipiece riveted together.
Areas of brush chrome next to bright chrome.
Pot metal construction.

And hard to find a replacement if there is anything wrong.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I totally understand your fears and trepidation with this next phase.

By now you will have found out that all the pieces will have to be separated before plating, plus, all the little pit marks will have to be completely cleaned out of any impurities, and filled prior to plating.

The factories used "Pot Metal" to create these parts because it was cheap, and easily castable to create intricate pieces, but there was never any thought to restoration years down the track.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

Decided to clean up my Rag joints. I have two of these. This is the first the second is still in the tank.

I know it would not originally been plated. But this is better looking then a rust layer.

[Clewisiii]

Grant from New Zealand got back to me.

He is almost done with the 61 exhaust hanger set I have been working  with Him on.

After I get a set I will let you know how they fit. He will have extras.

[Clewisiii]

I am going to need to look through my spare hardware.

I am missing one bolt and clipped washer from the glove box hinge.

I still have my parts car if I need it.

[Clewisiii]

Does anyone know if this style of wire harness retainer is available.

I will need at least four. I can make something work. But as long as they are not $10 a piece using the correct part is easier then figuring out a modification.


I went through my automotive fastener bins and only found two styles of wire harness retainers. But those were for oblong not round holes for anti rotation.

[Clewisiii]

Good news. While I was looking for wire harness retainers I found another tray of rubber bumpers. This is a much better selection for the glove box and ashtrays.

[Clewisiii]

So now a debate. Do I assemble, or do I pack away.

I want to assemble so that I can work through all the parts to make sure they are correct. This will get installed in the car as one big piece except for the end caps anyway. And I built a nice frame to hold the assembly. The cross car beam has been on this frame in my basement for years. But if I assemble it will be in my shop and not my basement. I do not want to carry the complete dash up the stairs. And I would wrap the whole thing with packing blankets and let it sit for a couple of more years in the shop till the body is painted.

The next step is

Radio
Instrument cluster
Chrome main bezel
Chrome HVAC bezel
Wire harness

I will not chrome the speaker cover. It is good enough. But I will be able to put power to this and test most things while on the stand. Honestly I have the room in the shop. There is a corner with my hood trunk lid fenders and doors. Once I switch  to the body I can pull those out and tuck this in there.

[Clewisiii]

I did this once before, but now I have more options. I will let them dry then get your opinions.

[Clewisiii]

Those ashtrays take quite a bit of adjustment. It will be some back and forth.


I am going to take my lock to a locksmith when I go to get my new keys cut. After that I will install it to the glovebox to be able to final adjust it.