May I have your opinion or tips

[Finndorado]

Hi guys !

Yesterday when swapping carbs I noticed that one bolt hole (in pictures) which goes through intake manifold to the valley pan chamber, there was a slight silver paste in the end of the bolt ?
Could you imagine what that could be ? It`s the bolt that attaches the support arm for the throtle cable.
I don`t exactly now what is the purpose for that valley pan and the chamber/space between the IM and valley pan, and/or is there any passages/channels to other places.. (crossing my hands while waiting for the answer..)
One more thing, I am about to install Pertronix III and it´s coil, but the old coil has two wires, black and brown coming from ignition switch (key) direction, as the Shop Manual wiring diagram says there`s only one ? I can imagine that maybe only one of them is coming from the ignition switch, and the other is just continuing to another device, but what device could that be..? If somebody knew, it could save me from following the cable bunch. (btw I have the Pertronix relay to get 12V straight from the battery).
And second more thing, when I finally understood the trunk lid mechanical pull down function with the hydraulic cylinder and tried to fix the lid balance grimace, I noticed the cable is stuck in the core. I remember reading that somebody soaked/drowned it into some liquid, because you cannot find new ones. I took it off and tried to spray WD-40 into it with a special cable lubrication tool, but that didn`t work so good, so I made a plastic bag full of WD-40 to drain it down, didn`t  succeed well. The cable is moving with a little force, but I can see there is plenty of crud inside the core. What liquids and methods did you have to succeed ?

Thanks
Mika

[TJ Hopland]

Looks like an anti seize compound on the bolt.   Likely who ever had the intake off last added that because at some point in the past they had issues with bolts getting stuck?    In this case its not a real issue because its a steel intake on steel heads with a steel bolt and a location that doesn't really really get wet. 

One coil wire does come from the key and is the one with the resistor wire in it.  The other one runs direct to the I terminal on the starter.   The I terminal is only live when cranking.  This gives a more direct and non resistor boost to the coil during cranking to try and compensate for the starter consuming most of the power.   You can just leave them together and connect both to the new relay.   You could also figure out which one goes to the starter and disconnect it at both ends.

The cable lube tool was going to be my idea.   Only other idea would be to replace the cable.   I have never looked at what kind of ends it has but I would be thinking maybe a brake or gear shifter for a bicycle?   Those come with one cast end but the other is bare so you would need room to have a clamp on other end.   Small engine throttle cables sometimes have a end with a screw to attach to the cable. 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

One way to try and free up the cable is to carefully tap the whole length of the outer cable in various planes, as in turning it while you tap, as this will create an internal shock, loosening up the rust.   It is rust that causes the problem.

Whilst looking at the issue, did you see any rusting in the trunk, as these cables are subject to rust if there is a leak into the trunk, especially in a convertible with a leaking drain.

With the one in my '72, I spent days "encouraging" it to move, and eventually got it to work reasonably well.

But, as I was moving it back and forth, with it hanging from the ceiling, I found that there was a broken strand of wire, rusted, that I was lucky enough to pull out.

I user many different fluids to get it to move, Brakleen, WD40, and even Sewing Machine oil, moving it for days, until I had to put the trunk back together to continue on our trip.

I did obtain a used replacement, but that didn't work any better than the original one that I spent so much time on.

Bruce.

[Finndorado]

One way to try and free up the cable is to carefully tap the whole length of the outer cable in various planes, as in turning it while you tap, as this will create an internal shock, loosening up the rust.   It is rust that causes the problem.

Whilst looking at the issue, did you see any rusting in the trunk, as these cables are subject to rust if there is a leak into the trunk, especially in a convertible with a leaking drain.

With the one in my '72, I spent days "encouraging" it to move, and eventually got it to work reasonably well.

But, as I was moving it back and forth, with it hanging from the ceiling, I found that there was a broken strand of wire, rusted, that I was lucky enough to pull out.

I user many different fluids to get it to move, Brakleen, WD40, and even Sewing Machine oil, moving it for days, until I had to put the trunk back together to continue on our trip.

I did obtain a used replacement, but that didn't work any better than the original one that I spent so much time on.

Bruce.

Bruce, there is absolutely no rust in the whole car.
The crud that is coming out when I push/pull the cable is gray/green ?
24h ago I put the cable into tight spool to get the cover slots open a little, and drowned it into gasoline.
Lets see what happens after few days.

Thanks
Mika

[Finndorado]

Looks like an anti seize compound on the bolt.   Likely who ever had the intake off last added that because at some point in the past they had issues with bolts getting stuck?    In this case its not a real issue because its a steel intake on steel heads with a steel bolt and a location that doesn't really really get wet. 

One coil wire does come from the key and is the one with the resistor wire in it.  The other one runs direct to the I terminal on the starter.   The I terminal is only live when cranking.  This gives a more direct and non resistor boost to the coil during cranking to try and compensate for the starter consuming most of the power.   You can just leave them together and connect both to the new relay.   You could also figure out which one goes to the starter and disconnect it at both ends.

The cable lube tool was going to be my idea.   Only other idea would be to replace the cable.   I have never looked at what kind of ends it has but I would be thinking maybe a brake or gear shifter for a bicycle?   Those come with one cast end but the other is bare so you would need room to have a clamp on other end.   Small engine throttle cables sometimes have a end with a screw to attach to the cable.

Thanks TJ, that second wire thing was an important intormation !
Mika