Any years Installing new brake lines

[badpoints]

I am replacing the brake lines on my 67 SDV, starting with the front. I have a 25'roll of 1/4" NiCopp brake line. I am trying to figure the best way to run the line. I removed the old line by cutting it in half and pulling out the front.
I would like to do the flaring at my work bench. I am wondering if I should try to copy the old line and flare the ends or copy the old line and leave some extra. Put the line in place and mark where to cut. Pull the line out and flare.

[Caddy Wizard]

STOP!  Do NOT use copper tubing for brake lines.  It is too weak for the pressures (well over 1,000 psi, typically). Plus, forming the proper flare on the end is very tough to do for brakes.  For fuel lines, maybe one can do that.  But very tough to do well enough for brakes.


Instead, buy pre-bent, pre-formed brakes lines from In-Line Tube in Michigan.  Their stuff is already bent to your correct shape and has the fittings and flares already in place.  Excellent quality.  For originality, you can use tin-plated steel lines.  For beauty and longevity, you can buy stainless steel lines from them.  The stainless lines are harder to install and get to seal initially, but once done, will never rust from the inside out like plain steel lines do.  So in the long run, the stainless lines are safer, but they are not original and  are a bit harder to work with initially.

[Chicken Coupe]

He mentioned Nicopp not copper.   

[Caddy Wizard]

He mentioned Nicopp not copper.   

Good point.  But still, better and easier to buy pre-formed lines...

[badpoints]

Good point.  But still, better and easier to buy pre-formed lines...

Preformed lines are great when the brake line is easily accessible. It would be very difficult to install a preformed steel line in my 67 with the engine in place. Just removing the old line was difficult.
The NiCopp brake lines are DOT approved and are easier to bend and flare.
Just looking for some tips on installing.
Thanks

[Chopper1942]

Here are some specs. Remember, the hose is the weakest link in the system.

Are Copper-Nickel Brake Lines Safe?
DECEMBER 16, 2021

Rumors about the questionable impact of copper and brake lines continue. But today, there is no longer a reason for the negative connotation. We are no longer living in the mid-1900s.

So are copper-nickel brakes lines a good thing today?

Today's copper-nickel brake lines exceed the quality of stainless steel brake lines. This article will update you on the latest in copper-nickel safety and success.

What is Copper-Nickel Brake Lines?
In the olden days, copper brake lines were a hazard waiting to happen. In 1965, brake lines were the cause of 251,000 car accidents. The Society of Automotive Engineers determined the corrosive deterioration of the steel brake line was at fault.

The industry switched to brake lines made from 100% copper. These lines burst from the pressure causing even more accidents. People demonized the copper brake lines.

Fast forward into the new millennium. Then came the invention of a new alloy that was 90% copper and 10% nickel. This was superior to steel and could handle far more pressure than a 100% copper line.

The copper-nickel brake line was:

Rust and corrosion-resistant
Flexible
Easy to form
Stronger than 100% copper
Longer lasting
Easier to damage when not handled right
Kink-resistant
The cutting and bubble flaring of copper-nickel is easier than steel. Although you'll want to use a sharp tube cutter. This is one of the reasons copper-nickel is ideal as a brake line replacement.

Are Copper-Nickel Brake Lines Safe?
Sweden has conducted vehicle inspections since the mid-1960s. They tested how corrosion affected steel brake lines with various coatings. They also compared them to coatings on copper brake lines.

Regardless of the combination, the brake lines had 20% failure rates.
In the late 1970s, copper-nickel tests showed no corrosive impact for 12-years. This led to more studies to determine the ideal proportions of copper and nickel.

The first copper-nickel tubing included:

87.8% Copper
10% Nickel
1.4% Iron
0.8% Manganese
Each manufacturer has since altered the composition.

This initial copper-nickel brake line burst pressure was better than steel. Since then, copper-nickel materials are even stronger.

The refining process hasn't stopped. Science has reviewed everything that might impact the tubing. Studies included brake fluid viscosity, operating temperatures, tube length, and fluid flow rate.

All tests prove copper-nickel brake lines provide superior reliability to steel.

Are Copper-Nickel Brake Lines Legal?
Due to the terrible history, the use of copper brake lines became illegal. Since the release of the new copper-nickel solution, the product is legal to use.

The Copper Development Association is now opposed to copper brake pads. They are trying to reduce the amount of copper used in automobiles. This battle is not related to copper-nickel brake lines.

Brake Line Kits
To simplify the installation process, copper-nickel brake line kits are available. These self-contained kits are single-walled and come in 3/16" and 1/4" sizes. The materials are rust-proof and can handle both hot and cold temperatures.

Here are the burst pressures based on the line size:

3/16" is 11,909 PSI
1/4" is 8,932 PSI
5/16" is 7,146 PSI
3/8" is 5,955 PSI
The materials are 90% copper and 10% nickel.

Brake Line Replacement
Most vehicles come off the production floor with steel brake lines. The lines are difficult to access because they get placed on the frame early in the assembly process. The mass-production process means that the brake lines don't last long.

This is due in part to the cheapness of the parts. After all, the manufacturer wants to make a large profit. But this means owners living in the road salted north will need replacement parts sooner.

Attaching Brake Lines
Brake lines tend to snake around the entire car. The lines have to move between several systems. Here is one route the brake line travels:

From the master cylinder down along the firewall
Past the suspension
To the anti-lock brake modulator
Then to the proportioning valve
To the rear wheels
The original brake lines are hard to get at. They are hard-baked into the frame. Getting to the lines means getting into the engine compartment.

Trying to replace the brake line with a steel part causes kinking problems due to the angle of the firewall. The steel brake line is not flexible enough to make the bend. This is where copper-nickel flexibility is the hero.

Zero Rust with Full Flexibility
Copper-nickel alloy does not rust. It is also flexible and bends by hand to work around obstacles, including firewalls.

Steel brake lines can bend in the right circumstances. But if the line needs reworking several times, the line becomes fractured. This makes it volatile to snap or kink.

Copper-nickel brake lines are always flexible. You can rework the lines many times without concern.

Fuel Tank Issues
One of the most difficult areas to work a replacement brake line is the fuel tank. The area has little room to maneuver and forces steel brake line users to remove the tank.

Copper-nickel brake lines are flexible enough to go over the top of the tank. You can push the line into position above the tank with little effort.

The one concern is making sure you tape the ends of the tubing off before pushing the line through. This will stop any dirt from getting into your brake lines.

Lifetime Warranty
Since the copper-nickel brake line never rusts or kinks, it's easy to apply a lifetime warranty. This alone is enough to consider the product. But its flexibility to get around crowded engine compartments is a bigger reason.

Copper-Nickel Brake Line Tubing Coil
The copper-nickel brake line tubing coil meets all SAE and ISO specifications. It is flexible, versatile, corrosion and rust-resistant, and comes with a lifetime warranty. The product is legal and exceeds stell specifications.

The product has longevity and can handle all high pressures used in braking. The metal composition protects the line from all weather conditions. It is also protected from winter salted streets.

Contact us to learn more about copper-nickel brake line tubing coil and brake line kits.

Stainless steel line

JEGS Stainless Steel Brake Line Coil | 3/8 Diameter | 20 Feet Long | Made In USA | 0.028" wall | 6,000 psi burst pressure / 3,500 psi working pressure.

Govt Regs

Burst Pressures: The hydraulic brake hose assembly must withstand water pressure of 4,000 psi for two minutes without rupture. Hose that is 1/8 inch, 3 mm, or smaller in diameter must be tested at 7,000 psi.

Metal brake lines must withstand 5000 psi tests, and most burst around 15,000 psi.

Typical full-lock operating pressures on conventional OEM-style automotive hydraulic-brake systems are 900–1,000 psi (69 bar) with manual brakes and 1,400-plus psi (96 bar)with power-assisted brakes.

[bcroe]

I would add, directly clamping together 2 different metals
invites corrosion when they get wet.  The 2 metals form a
battery and current flows.  I always wrap some duct tape
around lines to insulate them from the metal clamps holding
them in position.  Bruce Roe

[badpoints]

I am not at all worried about brake Line material . Any tips on running steel brake lines. Did you flare them first or test fit and pull out and flare.

[Chopper1942]

Steel line a much harder to work with than the NiCopp line.

Very seldom are you lucky enough to be able to make a line and then just slip it in place.

Depending on the line placement, I usually double flare one end, make sure to put the nut on correctly. With the old line removed, copy as many of the bends as you can to get one end of the line positioned in the car and attached. The rest of the bends will usually have to be made with the line in place in the car. The NiCopp can be carefully formed by hand with out kinking the bends. Cut the line a little long and install the second nut and double flare the line.

Be sure to check each flare for cracks. Steel has a tendency to crack more often than NiCopp.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Using the correct flaring tool, double flares are easy.

When I have these horrible places to install lines, I flare the initial end, and simply slide the long line into position, bending as I go, and using a coil spring taken from previous cars I have stripped, I slide the spring to where it has to be bent, bend, then move the spring along the line to the next one, until I get to the end.

I even do the flaring in position, but as my hands and wrists are getting weaker, it is not as easy as it used to be.

But, the secret of feeding these new lines into place, is to cover the end with some tape to keep out and grit or crud that could get inside as it is pushed through areas that are out of sight.

As for buying pre-bent tubing, that is not possible down here so I just buy it by the coil.

Bruce.

[Jay Friedman]

In my opinion it's best to use pre-formed stainless steel hydraulic brake lines.  Even pre-formed they are not always easy to install, particularly the long line to the rear axle, so why make it even harder for yourself.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I suppose in my case, where nobody makes pre-made brake lines, and postage to me is worth more than the parts, plus the probability of damage, it is easier to make my own.

Bruce.  

[badpoints]

The NiCopp brake lines worked out well. I did all the flares on the bench and copied the old lines. The installation was easy because the line are so flexible and easy to bend.

[TJ Hopland]

I'm a fan of nicop especially when you get into the larger sizes. I also finally broke down and bough a decent quality hydraulic pistol grip flaring tool.  I went with the pistol grip design because it fits into tighter places.  Before I bought that I must have made at least 50 flares with the old school parallel bar type of tool I think I paid $20 for at a parts store around 1990.  It worked for the smaller lines but took a while and could be really awkward to work with up under the car.

For the nicop guys what have you used to straighten the tubing off the roll?  I did one project and it doesn't look that great because I just straightened by hand.  I see they make tools with rollers in them for just that purpose but they are not cheap.  I have seen people make a DIY tool out of a block of wood.   I'm wondering how well that works or if there is something better but still cheap?