Pre-war (up to 1942) 1941 Hydra-Matic Transmission Yoke

[J. Russo]

I use Loctite Super Bearing Mount when fitting Speedie Sleeves.   Never had any leakage.

Plus, real easy to fit using the supplied tool and a hammer.   If I have to press it on further, I cut the end off the Installer, and use a tube the same size as the installer.

Bruce.  

For the Loctite are you referring to their retaining compound? If so which did you use. There are several.

Thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

There is only one Super Bearing Mount by Loctite as far as I know.

But, any sealing compound will do.

The thing about the Super Bearing Mount is that it fills up any imperfections under the piece being sealed, and this includes the worn points of the reason for using the Speedie Sleeve in the first place.

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

There is only one Super Bearing Mount by Loctite as far as I know.

But, any sealing compound will do.

The thing about the Super Bearing Mount is that it fills up any imperfections under the piece being sealed, and this includes the worn points of the reason for using the Speedie Sleeve in the first place.

Bruce.

They must have changed the name. Ill review the details of each.

[J. Russo]

Showing the before and after install of the Speedi-sleeve.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

One question I have for you is:   Does any part of the machined surface ride on the bushing inside the extension housing?

If it does, could the installation of the Speedie Sleeve interfere with the bush to shaft clearance?

Looking at the yoke fitted into the housing, the oil seal is right at the back of the yoke.

But the wear marks show on the forward end of the yoke.   Not where the oil seal appears to be in the housing.

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

One question I have for you is:   Does any part of the machined surface ride on the bushing inside the extension housing?

Bruce,

There's no bushing that I am aware of. I also checked the master parts list. The seal is installed deeper into the tail housing after the bearing and the sleeved end of the yoke is installed over the splined transmission shaft and through the seal. The yoke is then secured by a bolt. The seal should ride around the sleeve.

This is somewhat similar to when I replaced the pinion seal in my differential where the yoke and cup are separate.

The transmission yoke has a built in cup that covers the end of the tail shaft.

[J. Russo]

To do that using Loctite super bearing mount, as Tassie suggested, will insure it will stay in place.

I want to verify something before I proceed with installing the new seal. Please refer to the attached photos.

I purchased this seal driver from EBay. It fits the seal and fits over the splined transmission shaft no problem.

My question is the length of the center of the driver. It is 1/2 inch long and the seal is 5/16 inch thick. There would be a gap of 3/16 inch between the seal and the bearing once I drive the seal as far as it will go with this driver.

I just to want to make sure that is acceptable.

Thank you

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

What a wonderful picture.   Explains the rear bearing beautifully.

Looking at the wearing on the yoke, and the amount of room inside the housing, I would say that maybe there was no real need for a Speedie Sleeve, as the oil seal could be positioned at any depth to land the seal on a "better" part of the yoke.

Not sure if you need to put a bit of sealant on the splines to ensure that no oil can ever get out the back of the yoke if the nut ever comes loose.

Bruce.

[LaSalle5019]

Looks good. You should have a nice leak free setup.

[J. Russo]

As a follow up to this I am back to square one. My rear tail shaft is still leaking and I took it apart again.

I included a couple photos as I found the original J-1354 seal driver on EBay. This driver has 3 layers. The top layer holds the seal. The middle layer fits into the inner diameter of the shaft and the bottom layer stops the driver at the end of the shaft.

The end result is the seal being driven into the shaft only 1/4 inch. I drove the other seal as deep into the shaft as it would go with the other driver I used.


The first seal I removed was also driven in as deep as it would go and leaked.

I would be curious to know if anyone thinks this might be the difference.

Thank you

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Has the new seal not gone in far enough to meet up with the Speedie Sleeve?

Is there any sideways play at the rear bearing, allowing the yoke to move enough to allow oil to slip past the seal lips?

Could there be a crack in the extension housing?

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

Has the new seal not gone in far enough to meet up with the Speedie Sleeve?

Is there any sideways play at the rear bearing, allowing the yoke to move enough to allow oil to slip past the seal lips?

Could there be a crack in the extension housing?

Bruce.

Bruce, based on my measurements, the seal was on the sleeve. There also was not any play at all with the yoke when I tried to move the driveshaft after putting everything back together. I also installed a new u-joint at the yoke.

I also didn't notice any cracks in the housing, but I'll look it over in the morning.

If I use the J-1354 seal driver to install another seal, it will sit on the edge of the sleeve, but where the seal will sit the yoke is not damaged. I'm thinking about removing the seal that is deeper in the tail shaft and the sleeve before installing a new seal.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

One thing that when looking at the original damage to the seal area on the yoke, it would appear that the seal you removed had been replaced many many years ago, as if the originally placed seal would have been back out near the end of the housing.

That damage to the yoke caused by the seal you removed takes a very long time the create, especially as this is a reasonably protected area, as against the seal on a Diff pinion, which is subjected to the forces of water and dirt and grime as the vehicle is driven.

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

One thing that when looking at the original damage to the seal area on the yoke, it would appear that the seal you removed had been replaced many many years ago, as if the originally placed seal would have been back out near the end of the housing.
Bruce.

Bruce,

You are correct. The seal I removed was not the original seal and the damaged part of the yoke is where that seal was placed.

By using the correct seal driver, the seal would sit on a clean part of the yoke, closer to the end of the tail shaft.

[toybox]

 John, Did you put any ATF or some other lubricant on the seal and yoke during the assembly? and any sealant around the outer perimeter? to very important steps. Tim

[J. Russo]

John, Did you put any ATF or some other lubricant on the seal and yoke during the assembly? and any sealant around the outer perimeter? to very important steps. Tim

Yes. I used Loctite 620 retaining compound under the sleeve and Permatex #2 around the edge of the seal. I also used Silicone RTV on the yoke splines.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I would not use any Silicone RVT on anything to do with Auto Transmission Fluid.

I use Loctite 5900.   An auto trans guy once told me that the only thing they use is either vaseline, in conjunction with the cork gaskets.

Engine oil is different to Auto Trans Fluid.   And Auto Trans Fluid destroys RVT.   Hence the 5900

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

I would not use any Silicone RVT on anything to do with Auto Transmission Fluid.

I use Loctite 5900.   An auto trans guy once told me that the only thing they use is either vaseline, in conjunction with the cork gaskets.

Engine oil is different to Auto Trans Fluid.   And Auto Trans Fluid destroys RVT.   Hence the 5900

Bruce.

Good to know. I'll clean my splines while I have the yoke off.

Thanks!!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

There should be no need for any sealant on the splines at all.   Just put a bit of sealant under the washer and then the thread of the nut.   This way, if you ever need to remove it, you WILL be able to get it off.   

Then I am doing Differentials, I use a bit of Loctite Super Bearing Mount on those splines, as there is nothing worse than any oil leaking out there.   With the Diff, I always use a puller to remove the Yoke.   Diffs are easier to get at than a transmission.

Bruce.

[J. Russo]

Diffs are easier to get at than a transmission.

Bruce.

I agree. I replaced my differential pinion seal a few months ago. The hardest part about that job was removing the cup.