1960 Rebuilt Engine Break IN

[60eldo]

 Can someone run me through this, Ive never done it. Im using Valvaline VR-1  10w 30 oil. I heard just star the car and rev it up to 2000 rpm for about 2o min. But Im sure its not gonna just start up and run good, so I may need to adjust some things

[TJ Hopland]

It depends on the parts used in the build.  Did you select all the parts and build it?  If not ask the builder which process and oil to use.  There are 2 areas of concern, the cam if the lifters and or the cam was replaced and then the rings. The initial higher rpm part is usually for the cam but you have to also pay attention to the rings too.

The process for older style rings vs more modern ones can be quite different.  The ring manufactures should have a info page that said things like what gaps to use, what cylinder finish, and what sort of break in process and oil to use. 

[Lexi]

Concur with TJ. I would also go with a break in oil for the initial start up. Then change. Can't recall if the change is recommended immediately following start up or within the first 100 miles. Think the break in oil has more zddp in it and perhaps a different ratio of other chemistry such as detergents etc. Too much zinc is harmful for your engine so follow all guidelines closely. Clay/Lexi

[Clewisiii]

The CAM break in is 30 minutes. Then the ring break in is about 500 miles.

I talked to engine builders who said they use regular oil for that 30 minutes to not waste money. Then use breakin oil for the next 500 miles for ring break in. I used breakin oil for both.

I did my 30 minute break in with breakin oil. You want to really sling the oil around to get it up on the CAM and other areas that might not be oiled well when just idling. I was over 2000 then reving for short stints periodically.

It took me a few start attempts before I could do the 30 minutes breakin. I had to adjust the distributor after several start attempts. After the first two minutes of running I had a coolant leak so I had to stop and fix that before I could start again.

When I started to do the full cam breakin run I saw that my trans coolant line was leaking. Only minor so I decided to keep going. I had someone playing with the carb a little bit but it was thankfully pre adjusted by the carb rebuilders.

Everything on mine was new. Which also means everything was untested. I don't know if that is better or worse.

I have not started my engine again after the cam breakin. I hope to get the body on the frame this fall. Then the vehicle "Driveable" by end of next summer. I cannot do the ring breakin until after paint. The paint shop wants to be able to move the car under it's own power when they have it. Even though it will never be on the road.

[Clewisiii]

I am still happy with this after my CAM breakin. It took me months of looking at it and thinking about everything that needed to be in place and happen to be able to start it.

[Clewisiii]

I used a meter to monitor RPMs during the breakin. It took me a minute. I thought the meter was on a wrong setting because of how quiet the engine was at 2000 rpm. I was wrong. It was just quiet.

[Clewisiii]

Also used that laser thermometer to check block, exhaust, and radiator temperature

[60eldo]

HEY CHEWII, I just got the gaskets, thanks, I owe u one

[Clewisiii]

HEY CHEWII, I just got the gaskets, thanks, I owe u one

Your welcome.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Firstly, I only use straight 30 weight oil when breaking in any engine.    Never any Friction Modified or Multigrade oil.   I make sure that the Break-in oil has the Zinc content.

For new Cam and Lifters, 2,500 RPM for 30 minutes, with NO idling period.   Straight to the 2,500 RPM.   This can be done in shorter intervals to save in case of overheating.

Have someone with you so any leakage can be observed.

The only way the Cam (at the lobes), and Lifters can get lubricates if via the splashing of oil thrown out of the Crankshaft as it rotates, and the oil from the Big Ends does this as well as lubricating the underside of the pistons, Cylinder Walls, and Gudgeon Pins.

The reason for the 30 minutes is so that the oil can become imbedded into the pores of the Cam and Lifter bases, which once achieved, will last for ever.   The first 5 minutes is the critical time for these parts.

Bruce.

PS.   Before starting, I ensure that the oil pump has been primed, and manually rotate the crankshaft, with the spark plugs out as I am priming.   This takes pressure off the big end bearings, and easier to turn.   I Prime, turn 45 Degrees, Prime again, turn another 45 degrees, Prime again, and so on till the crank has been turned twice.   This ensures that all parts receive oil during their rotation cycle.