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1960 New problem Engine

Started by 60eldo, May 23, 2024, 07:59:13 PM

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60eldo

  So when I got the rebiult back he told me its set on #1. When I put the dist in I couldnt get it at 1 oclock on dist cap so I moved it to 2 oclock and move the wires as you can see in the pic. Car is running rough. 12 on the vacumn guage . Could this be causing my problem. #1 is were the socket is on top. Im standing in front of the car
Jon. Kluczynski

Clewisiii

My engine builder installed my distributor. But he installed it 180 degrees out. I removed it. Confirmed 1 was on compression stroke. Then reinstalled.
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

From 61 but should be the same. 1 is back of distributor to the left of cap screw. IMG_20240523_202647774.jpg
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

60eldo

#4
  But am I ok with being one notch down with #1, will that affect the way its running. It will not idle, just stalls wen I let off the gas. Is it maybe the rings havent sealed. Chewii, in your pic where # 2 is, thats my #1
Jon. Kluczynski

dn010

Is it still smoking and using oil?
-----Dan B.
'57 Cadillac Sedan Deville 6239DX
'81 DMC DeLorean

60eldo

Jon. Kluczynski

Lexi

Here are some data specs on the 1960 Cadillac, from an AEA set. Clay/Lexi

Jason Edge

People often jab their distributor back in 1 position forward or back from the recommended setting in the shop manual and per specs, but that is OK as long as your wires are installed accordingly.  If your engine #1 piston is TDC on the compression stroke, advance is set correctly, you just need to make sure that rotor tip is pointed to what have have denoted #1 plug wire and all subsequent wires are in correct firing order arrangement on the cap. People over think this when the distributor is installed a notch or two forward or back, but you can simply adjust the wires so the rotor is beneath the correct wires as it fires to each cylinder. I once won a $50 bet that I could quickly get my firing correct regardless of what position the distributor was installed (i.e. where the rotor ended up pointing).All I had to do was get the engine on TDC on compression stroke, see where rotor is pointing to and put #1 wire there and follow the firing order with other wires. The shop manuals & specs are there of course as a best placement for routing the wires, and accessing the cap and point, but once you step back and think about what is going on you realized it is not a big deal to move the distributor forward or back a notch or two.. just place the wires on cap accordingly.   
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60eldo

#9
Did a compression today 190-135. 135 in  cyl #8. Car runs but is vibrating. Timing is good, Temp good at 1/4. Dwell is 32.  Vacunm is 12 not good .Cant figure this out. Im wondering, before the engine was rebuilt I had 1 thin gasket under the carb, ran great. Now I did the 4 gasket thing, could that be it??   Some say drive the car, let everything settle.
Jon. Kluczynski

The Tassie Devil(le)

On a rebuilt engine, the pressures should be about the same, but, not having the rings bedded-in, there will be discrepancies, but not as much.

I would alco be doing a "Wet" check, as this will either rule in or out bad compression rings.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

James Landi

That's great compression, though Bruce's comment is a valid one regarding the variation that might cause the vibration -- in my judgement, the concern is a matter of degree of vibration... and YOU"RE right be concerned about the 12 -- should be around 18 I think---so there's something not right.   SO is the needle on the gauge vibrating widely or is it steady at 12?  check the instructions on your vacuum gauge OR do some research on Google as to how to interpret vacuum readings  --- very, very important information.   Is your vacuum advance on your distributor holding vacuum or is the vacuum advance ruptured (not an uncommon problem that's often overlooked ? Plug off ALL intake manifold ports (including the brake booster) and see if you have something that's leaking vacuum. YOu might try a stream of WD 40 around the gasket of the intake manifold to the engine to check for leaks--- not an uncommon problem---some of that spray may instantaneously smooth out the engine if there's a minor leak in the block to manifold surfaces.
Hope this helps,  James 

PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192

When I rebuilt my engine I put the distributor in 180 degrees out. It ran, but it was rough like you say.

Moody

I'm was dealing with a similar issue on a '69 AMX. I didn't do the rebuild.
Turns out two pushrods had bent on startup. Easy thing to check.
Moody