1960 rough engine Timing question SOLVED

David Greenburg · May 28, 2024, 10:24:03 PM

On these older cars, I like to time them using a vacuum guage. Old school mechanic taught me this many years ago when I was traveling between the Rockies and the east coast with some regularity. Turn the distributor until you get max vacuum, and the back it off 3/4"-1" (depending on how good your gas is. This adjusts for altitude, engine wear etc. and may also help to confirm/deny a vacuum leak.

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373 · May 29, 2024, 08:55:20 AM

Our 55 has vac advance for the booster, distributor advance, and the wipers/antenna.
I know yours is different, but I would unhook all vac accessories and cap them. If not,you will be chasing your tail if you have a leaking booster for example.

TJ Hopland · May 29, 2024, 10:00:06 AM

Can anyone confirm he has the correct layout and firing order and rotation? Not just google, when I google it I do get some that match what he drew but I also get several that I know are not correct. We need to know for sure is is working with the correct layout before continuing.

60eldo · June 02, 2024, 09:13:36 AM

Just an update. Car starts fine , drives fine, but still shaking when its in drive and I come to a stop. Someone at a car show last night said the vibration could be coming from the trans. Something about the torque converter. I dont no what to think of that. Is it possible? I still think its a vac leek. Currently at 15 on the guauge. Now new cap, rotor, points, cond, wires. plugs and rebuilt Carter carb. Another funny thing is the TV rod seems too long, I got it in and the trans shifts fine, but itsall the way forward with no room for adjustment. Its almost like the eng is too far back.

Roger Zimmermann · June 02, 2024, 09:34:59 AM

Your transmission has a fluid coupling, not a torque converter. Unless the trasnsmission is checked thoroughly, it's hard to say if the vibrations are coming from the transmission, but after so many years, everything is possible.
The TV rod is maybe from another car or it was bent. You can try to "rebent" it to make it a tad shorter. Have a look also at the lever at the transmission. Usually there is only one position possible to install it, but I saw bent levers...

60eldo · June 02, 2024, 09:57:10 AM

Trans is rebuilt 2 months ago and ran fine. TV rod is the same one I took out. Its only when its in drive at a stop with my foot on the brake that it vibrates

Lexi · June 02, 2024, 10:09:36 AM

Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on June 02, 2024, 09:34:59 AMYour transmission has a fluid coupling, not a torque converter. Unless the trasnsmission is checked thoroughly, it's hard to say if the vibrations are coming from the transmission, but after so many years, everything is possible.
The TV rod is maybe from another car or it was bent. You can try to "rebent" it to make it a tad shorter. Have a look also at the lever at the transmission. Usually there is only one position possible to install it, but I saw bent levers...

Roger is correct. A bent TV rod can cause severe issues. It doesn't take much to put them out. Think of it, turning the adjusting nut a quarter turn can make a lot of difference in how the car shifts. If the rod got bent during the removal and rebuilding process, you can spend a day trying to get it back to where it was. Something to investigate further, if all else fails. Think you have a parts car (?), take that one off as a template and compare to what is on your car. Clay/Lexi

60eldo · June 02, 2024, 10:17:43 AM

I have 2 spares, OK I will take mine out today and see if its same length as other two

Lexi · June 02, 2024, 11:20:37 AM

Best to also remove yours and lay them both together, one on top of the other, to check for any variation in geometry. Any non-factory bends or twists as Roger pointed out can affect the "length" of the rod, hence how the transmission shifts. Also, sounds like your vacuum is increasing? Wasn't it 12 now is at 15 assuming test/reading conditions were consistent? Your vacuum readings on a fresh rebuilt engine should increase once the engine is installed and the car is being driven. So it appears at least that is in the right direction and good news so far. Clay/Lexi

60eldo · June 02, 2024, 11:30:03 AM

Yes it has gone up 3 points. Some have said to me. DRIVE THE CAR. Things will get better. Iv only put 100 miles on engine

James Landi · June 03, 2024, 07:31:10 AM

"I know yours is different, but I would unhook all vac accessories and cap them. If not,you will be chasing your tail if you have a leaking booster for example."

Any vacuum leak will cause a rough idle... with your vacuum gauge connected and all of the vacuum lines capped off, as suggested above, what is THE NEEDLE on the gauge doing? If, as you say, the engine is shaking, the vacuum needle will help to reveal the cause. James

60eldo · June 03, 2024, 08:50:25 AM

Found acouple things yesterday. Both trans bolts were loose, tightened them up. And choke tube is rotten I saw puff smoke come out at top so I sealed that. Would that cause vac leek? And wood I need to seal underneath the hole also in manifold?

Big Fins · June 03, 2024, 09:57:32 AM

The choke tube runs all the way through the manifold. The carb draws the heated air through the tube up to the coil in the choke heater housing. You should get the correct tubing and replace it as it is also rotten inside the intake where it passes through.

In turn, the holes in the tube will draw in exhaust gasses and carbon up the thermostatic spring and also draw that sooty air into the carb. You're working against yourself.

60eldo · June 03, 2024, 10:15:52 AM

I disconnect the tube and plugged the hole in the intake manifold. Question is, could I have been loosing vacumn out of there? When I sent the engine in to be rebuilt, I forgot to tell the guy to replace the tube in the manifold, so wen I got it back I didnt notice there was just a hole there.

TJ Hopland · June 03, 2024, 11:00:17 AM

That choke tube is a loop through the exhaust crossover in the intake, it should have 2 ends, one went to the choke housing and the other is a fresh air inlet that may or may not have some sort of filter involved somehow so that end will be leaking exhaust too if its rotten.

Its not in the intake section so its not directly effecting things. Since it was sucking exhaust I guess it would be slightly acting as an EGR but probably pretty minimal. The bigger question is did it damage anything in the carb? The direct exhaust gas is hotter and dirtier than what is supposed to be coming through there so it tends to be hard on things.

If you have that system plugged now your choke isn't going to be working correctly assuming it was working correctly to begin with.

60eldo · June 03, 2024, 11:40:31 AM

This is what I mean. I have manual choke now I plugged the tube at top only If the choke tube is rotted, can you loose some vacumn

Roger Zimmermann · June 03, 2024, 12:51:22 PM

No. The carb sucks internally the hot air. You may plug the hole at the choke coil, but I doubt it will make a difference.

Big Fins · June 03, 2024, 01:00:41 PM

I give you credit for the manual chock cable. I like that idea!

Big Fins · June 03, 2024, 01:03:50 PM

Jonny, look at picture number 1. Right underneath the choke cable trunion, you see a flared looking threaded port. Plug that port with a cap of sorts. That is a vacuum leak, minimal, but a leak none the less.

That is where the carb draws the hot air through the heater tube and into the thermostatic coil.

60eldo · June 03, 2024, 01:35:13 PM

Thanks John for pointing that out. I plugged it. Im now at 16 degrees vac, and its running pretty good. Id still like to find those other 2 degrees. Manuel chokes are great

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1960 rough engine Timing question SOLVED