1960 rough engine Timing question SOLVED

[Big Fins]

Roger caught it first. I just explained it in more detail.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger caught it first. I just explained it in more detail.

Thanks for the better explanation! My English has some limitations...

[60eldo]

So I made some mistakes. Trans bolts were loose, I loosened them when I took the engine out to raise the trans, #2 Dist hose went to carb,and I corrected that. my PCV valve went to the intake manifold I changed that went to carb , so now im at 17 vac, I fu k up what can i say. Im getting there runs pretty good, not perfect though

[Lexi]

You won't make those mistakes again. People who don't make mistakes don't learn anything. So, good job. 17 vacuum is good. It will probably still rise some more when the engine is fully broken in. Say perhaps another inch or two if it was rebuilt properly. Clay/Lexi

[James Landi]

Jon,

Don't beat yourself up. Your experience adds to your knowledge as well as broadens your appreciation of your car's restoration process. You also shared your challenges with us, and not only did you learn, but so did we, who read your posts and the suggestions by other CLC members.  Please keep us in the loop.   James 

[60eldo]

So,I was watching utube and they said vac line from the dist should go to manifold not ported. Is that true cause it seems like it should go to front of carb.

[cadman59]

It should go to the front of the carb, at least if it should be like my '59.

It's the metal silver line on the left in the picture.

[60eldo]

  In your pic, that curved vac line at the front. Where is that going to? Seems like I messed up on my vac lines. In 3rd pic ,the choke tube I blocked off cause I have manuel one now

[cadman59]

That line is going to the heater control switch in the dash. From the heater control in the dash there is another vacuum line to the heater vacuum regulator pod which is located under the hood, on the black box on the left in the picture (but the pod itself is not in the picture).

Since you have a '60, I know you should have one more vacuum line to the parking brake. That feature was introduced in 1960, so it is not on my '59.

[cadman59]

It seems you now have connected the (ported) vacuum in front of the carb to the rocker cover, possibly to create some kind of crankcase ventilation. 

I do not have such a connection to the rocker cover, but have seen something similar connected to an extra connection on the bakelite spacer under the carb.

[cadman59]

Oh, there is another vacuum connection on the rear of your intake manifold, to which a vacuum line should attached connected to the dash pod on the firewall.

[60eldo]

Yes I got that one going to the top restricted kinda vac line, and the bottom one sticking out sideways going to the dist, hope thats ok

[cadman59]

The dist should definitely be connected to the one on front of the carb.
So to the connection where you have now connected that hose to the valve cover.

[cadman59]

Some more pictures that might be of help.

[60eldo]

Thanks, I think I have it right now, and shes running good. Next week i am going to a shop , they are very good, and they are going to do a once over on the engine. Compresion test leek down, check dist. carb set up. Make sure running on all cyls. Just to be safe.

[60eldo]

 Getting more interesting. So I went for a drive just now, and its runs pretty good not perfect, and I disconected the vac line at the dist. and pluged the line of the carb, drove it and NO difference, somethings wrong here. What wood cause this. How can car run with no vac going to the dist.

[dadscad]

Hello Jon,it sounds like you are getting the fine details into order with your new engine. One thing that I noticed in your photos of the carburetor is that you are missing the phenolic heat spacer under the carburetor. That will need to be installed before you take the car to your mechanic for tuning and carburetor balancing. Without the heat spacer, the carburetor will overheat and fuel will boil over from the fuel bowls. Hope this helps.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Jon,

The engines run best with the Distributor Vacuum Advance connected to full Manifold Vacuum.   Not Ported.

If you are still running your Draft Tube at the back of the engine, then you should not be running the Vacuum Line from the Rocker Cover via a PCV Valve, as these were only used in Pollution-Controlled engines, that run the closed Crankcase Evacuation system.

Whet sort of PCV are you using?   As these must have a sealed Oil Filler Cap, and run the air intake from the Air Filter, thus restricting more contaminants from getting in.

Bruce.

[60eldo]

No draft tube, the hole in valley pan is plugged. And you are right, my car ran smoother when I ran the dist vac to manifold, but then I changed it back cause its correct to go to the carb. Do you have any pics of the PCV system u r talking about.Dave, I had that on there but removed it and went with just  1 thin gasket cause I thought I was leeking vac

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

This is what I did.

I modified the Oil filler tube to seal it off, then as I was using an electric fuel pump, I constructed a fitting to join the system to under the air cleaner to take the fresh air.   That pipe doesn't go straight in, but has a downward fitting so that when filling the sump during oil changes, no oil can go into that tube.   Then, at the back, created a PCV Valve fitting from an old inline 6 engine, and welded that into the old Draft Tube.   This mounted the PCV Valve in the same position as it was of the donor engine.

As for the full manifold Vacuum to the Distributor, that was my choice, as I wanted performance.   These old engines benefit from full vacuum, as against ported.

Bruce.