The tools you may not know existed thread

[Lexi]

Before I pull my 59 headlight switch out with fog lamps the manual calls for a tool? 

You got me on that one. Short of pulling my '59 manual, I figure that is not necessary as you have one and still have concerns.

My car is a 1956 model, but perhaps there are some similarities as my car also has the optional fog lights. With that in mind, I wonder if the tool you saw mentioned is one required to remove the lock down threaded bezel on the dash side? If memory is correct, mine is notched with a pair of tiny slots at 12 and 6 o'clock. Looks like a special tool is required to insert into those notches in order to remove the threaded bezel. At least that is how my '56 is. Similar set up also with the ignition switch bezel. Some antenna and wiper related hold down hardware is also like that. They are notched similarly as well. I just use a very small slot headed screwdriver inserted into one of the notches, then gently tap with a jeweler's brass hammer to apply force to loosen. That could be what they are refering to.

If your '59 is like my '56, the "fog box" part of the headlight switch assembly is close to the dash, on the inside. Closer than the rest of the headlight switch assembly. So perhaps Cadillac made additional provision to secure all by 1959? Maybe on fog light equipped cars a different threaded bezel nut was used as opposed to non-fog light equipped cars?

At the back of the section you are looking at, they usually have photos of the specialty tools required as described in that chapter. Check to see if a description or photo of the tool is there. They may also be referring to some other tool that I am unaware of. I am not familiar with the '59 headlight switch, so these are my speculative "guesses". Clay/Lexi

[tcom2027]

                                   

                                      SNAP-ON 640 COIL/CONDENSER TESTER

The best troubleshooting tool for testing copper wound coils and condensers. I have one and I would buy coils of unknown condition at swap meets, especially the armored type, when they were fairly common. Extremely hard to find today.

 I'd guess three quarters tested good. I sold all the good ones after application of Krylon Rebuild in Can. Never had to buy one back.  I kept a couple for my prewar and early post war cars.

I ripped this photo from one on eBay today. It's still listed and bidding is at $32.

[Lexi]

Hi Clay,

What brand is that siphon tool? 

Thanks.

Hey Jim, the oldest one has the name "FLOWTOOL" stamped on the copper manifold. The newer one says "SIMPLE SIPHON", but otherwise both manifolds appear to be the same, and both are loaded with what appear to be glass marble ball bearings. Both manifolds are made of copper, guessing to elimnate sparking. Clay/Lexi

[Classic]

The siphon tube is available on Amazon for a low as $4.99.

Gene
 

[J. Skelly]

Hey Jim, the oldest one has the name "FLOWTOOL" stamped on the copper manifold. The newer one says "SIMPLE SIPHON", but otherwise both manifolds appear to be the same, and both are loaded with what appear to be glass marble ball bearings. Both manifolds are made of copper, guessing to elimnate sparking. Clay/Lexi

thanks, Clay!

[tcom2027]

                             SUN Battery / Starter tester


This unit will load test a battery to 300 amps using a carbon pile rheostat.

Say you have a battery that is slow turning your engine over after sitting for a week or so. You check the specific gravity and it's OK so you use your Dayton or Amazon battery load tester. It tests OK. So off to O'Reilly's or Autozone and they use the latest and greatest digital test equipment and they say it's OK, just charge it. So you do and still not 100%.

By using a tester like this you can load up the battery to the maximum starter plus all electrical accessories,usually around 250 amps for a big V8, it will show any weakness or shorting. If the battery voltage slowly drops below about 4.8  volts for six volt batteries or 9 volts for a twelve volt do a cell drop test.

  It has a voltage scale that reads in tenths of volts.  All you do is open the caps or blocks on the battery. Probe either the negative or positive terminal and using a wire clamped to the tester lead probe each cell. Don't let the probe touch the lead. Each cell should read two volts, minus one tenth for a fully charged battery.  Anything less than 1.8 volts indicates a failing cell. Three or four tenths the cell is about to fail.

Only downside, it is bulky and has heavy leads. Typically they were mounted on a cart.


                           New Way Valve Seat cutter

THis is for those of us do our own valve jobs, especially on the valve in block engines. It works for valve in head applications too. First off the kit is expensive, however you can get the cutters, handle and pilots ala carte. Each head has two sets, 45*/30* of cutters. All that is needed is a 60 degree and you can adjust the distance from the margin and the width of the seats. The pilot come in standard and oversize dimensions.

Grinding the valves in a valve in block engine you have several choices, borrow a Sioux grinder, pilots and stones, hoping they are accurately dressed, hire a mobile machinist and have him do it, pull the engine and take it to a machine shop. Except for the first option it will be expensive.

The pieces you need for the 346/322 engines will probably run $250-$300 max. A lot right? Most machine shops in my area are charging $150/$165 hr. It's going to take at least an hour to wrestle the block into position, get the tooling and start the job. THen there is the actual grinding operation. Even at one bore every five minutes the time and money add up quickly.  Most shops will charge a minimum of one hour up to an hour and a half just to gauge and grind your valves. When you finish grinding the seats yourself you can sell the New Way set for half of what you paid for it.

The heads have adjustable carbide cutters which leave a very fine finish if the cutter is used properly. It's not difficult.   


                                        FLEX-Hone Finishing hone.

The humble dingle ball hone. Ideal for breaking the glaze on cylinder walls and reestablishing a crosshatched finish identical to that of the unworn area at the bottom of the cylinder bore. It also does an excellent job of getting the area close to the edge of any ring ridge left at the top of the bore. Many automotive machinists use the ball hones to finish the surfaces of freshly bored cylinders.

 This is not the case for maximum output race car engines like an F1 engines turning 16,000rpm. Same for Rousch and Hendrick engines running 8900rpm for the best part of the Southern 500 mile NASCAR race. Those engine builders use diamond or Cubic Boron Nitride cutters digital surface gauges to get the desired finish.

IIRC the manufacturer suggests not using oil but most guys use WD40, my choice, or clear cutting oil. I tried both ways and didn't notice any difference.

My choice is 320 grit run with a drill at around 500rpm.It's been my experience about twenty strokes at one per second works the best. I stop or keep at it  until the crosshatch looks like the factory finish at the unused area at the bottom of the bore. Even so it would take a Lonnnnnng time to alter the dimensions of the bore a few tenths of thousandths. I haven't used stones for years.

And.... they are available in sizes down to one inch for brake master and wheel cylinders

tony

 

[CadillacFanBob]

SNAP-ON 640 COIL/CONDENSER TESTER

The best troubleshooting tool for testing copper wound coils and condensers. I have one and I would buy coils of unknown condition at swap meets, especially the armored type, when they were fairly common. Extremely hard to find today.

 I'd guess three quarters tested good. I sold all the good ones after application of Krylon Rebuild in Can. Never had to buy one back.  I kept a couple for my prewar and early post war cars.

I ripped this photo from one on eBay today. It's still listed and bidding is at $32.

I have had that Snap-On #640 coil/condenser tester for many years, works great

Bob

[Moody]

Any guesses as to the purpose of this wrench?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Not sure, it could be for door hinges on some models.

[Lexi]

If not made as a one off, (could be for anything), it rather appears to be a combination starter motor/distributor nut wrench. Usually the D wrenches have a much longer reach, so may probably be a variant of starter motor wrench. Clay/Lexi

[Moody]

Roger is right. It's a door adjuster. Bought a set 30 or so years ago and have never seen another one. But useful for many other hard to reach areas.

[Cadman-iac]

  Well I went to use this "jiggler" fuel siphoning tool and it doesn't work. I'm wondering if it is put together wrong.

 Is the marble supposed to be the first thing you see when you look in the end, or is it the spring? Mine has the marble first and I think it's backwards. Can anyone who has a working one tell me which way it's supposed to be?

 Thanks, Rick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The marble is the first thing you see.   If you can see the spring, then something is wrong.

You are putting the metal end of the hose into the container that is being drained?

Plus, the other end of the hose has to be lower than the container that is being drained.

Lastly, you are "jiggling" it correctly?

Bruce.

[Cadman-iac]

  No, I put the hose into the can and shook the metal end. Putting the metal end in the can would probably make more sense. I can see the marble sealing the end that way. There wasn't any mention on the package as to which end went where and I had a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. Guess I got it wrong, lol!!
 Thanks Bruce, I'll try it out the right way and see what happens. I appreciate the prompt response.
  Rick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

You have to shake, or actually, plunge, lift and plunge and lift again till you see the liquid rising up the tube.   Once it is up and over the bend, and on down the other side, then it will start to flow all on its' own.

You will hear the marble rattling around the bottom of the metal piece when it is syphoning out.

Bruce.

[Big Fins]

Lastly, you are "jiggling" it correctly?

Bruce.

That sounds kinky. Let's stay on topic here, Bruce! 

[Lexi]

Bruce is correct. It can be a bit of a challenge to start, but once it starts it is like you have a pump connected to it. The tube has to be vigorously shaken for it to start. Clay/Lexi

[tcom2027]

That sounds kinky. Let's stay on topic here, Bruce! 

Sounds like a Southern Hemisphere thing.

[Lexi]

No, I put the hose into the can and shook the metal end. Putting the metal end in the can would probably make more sense. I can see the marble sealing the end that way. There wasn't any mention on the package as to which end went where and I had a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. Guess I got it wrong, lol!!
 Thanks Bruce, I'll try it out the right way and see what happens. I appreciate the prompt response.
  Rick

Did you finally get it to work? Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Did you finally get it to work? Clay/Lexi

I haven't had occasion to use it since I posted that. When I have need of it again I'll let you know if I've managed to get it to work.

 Rick