The tools you may not know existed thread

[Lexi]

Overhead power beam hoist...Zinc plating station. Initially spent a little over a thousand on it. then it sat for 3 or 4 years never being touched. Then my restoration took off and this has helped me do things I never would have been able to do.  It has been worth it...Bench top Spray booth. I thought I was wasting money and a lot of wall space installing this booth. But I use it almost every time I am in the shop. It has been wonderful.

Very nice. Have to admit that I am a little jealous! Clay/Lexi

[TJ Hopland]

Has anyone got any kind of tool that works for 'siphoning' gas out of a tank?  Seems like there have always been lots of options but most of them are not especially consistent and tend to make a mess.   Even if you have reasonable access to the fuel lines up front it still doesn't seem like there are great options.  I have had all sorts of different electric and hand pumps and they all suck? Or don't suck I guess.   

[TJ Hopland]

Here is one that I have seen and thought about picking up.  Tubes of RTV are quite a pain to deal with so it seems like this would be a great tool.  I would imagine you could buy one for your toothpaste too.  I first saw it on Taryl's channel but also saw one on the shelf at my local John Deere dealer.  Would have bought that one except I was spending all my money on tractor parts.

https://tarylfixesall.bigcartel.com/product/valco-cincinnati-clear-adhesive-sealant-and-tube-gripper

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Bruce, I guess I'm not the only one who uses old tools to make new ones. Got lots of modified wrenches for specific jobs, some that I can't remember what they were for now because I haven't needed it since I used it the first time.

I still remember this one though. It's my Roosa-Master diesel injector pump mounting nut wrench for the 350 Olds engine. One of the first tools I ever modified, used it 3 or 4 times and haven't touched it in 45 years except to move it out of the way while looking for something else.

I did the same with a 1/2 wrench for the locknut on the 331 distributor.

[Lexi]

Heres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

[TJ Hopland]

Interesting, I never heard of intentionally oversize sockets before.  I guess that is one advantage to the USA is since the 70's we have all pretty much had both SAE and metric tools and for some sizes and conditions swapping between them gets you the fit you need.   

[Big Fins]

Heres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

Don't be so fast to blame Ford exclusively. I remember, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Chevrolet and some GMC units that used faux mag wheel lug nuts. They were cheapy thin walled caps over the lug nuts and if you were the next guy after some tire store kid that was impact happy, they stripped right off. You had to 'peel' the fake caps off to get to the lug nut itself and then use a metric socket or as just noted, a half sized socket to get them off.

[Lexi]

Yep, as I noted it was but one example of lousy cap nuts out there. The "woods" are full of 'em. Had to "peel" away some of those caps off myself to get at the real nut. That is a good point, that outer skin can be removed. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Heres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

Clay,
I always thought that's what you used a BFH for, just find the closest fit and whack it with the BFH and bingo!! It fits, lol!!

 I admit, when I first read your email about them, I was thinking of really short sockets for getting into tight spots, but then I read on.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Many times I have had to resort to using different spanners to work on worn and rusty nuts and bolts.   I have a good range of Imperial, Metric and Whitworth tools that I reach for to fit.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

Here is another sometimes handy tool. The automatic center punch, so called as it is used without a hammer. There are different types but the common variety utilizes an internal spring under compression to store energy. When you place the punch over your work piece, you press down on the punch which triggers the striker pin to release, causing a dimple in the work piece. Their force of impact is usually adjustable by turning the knurled knob, opposite end to the striker. These come in handy as they aid in preventing the punch from "walking" during the strike process as can happen when using a hammer. So when you just can't afford to make a mistake with a garden variety punch & hammer combination, this is the way to go. In the automotive world, bodywork people would probably appreciate this tool. There are different varieties of them, such as self centering ones & others that create deeper dimples, for example. Check out what that awesome American tool manufacturer Starret sells. Attached image shows my British "Eclipse" brand of automatic punch. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Don't be so fast to blame Ford exclusively. I remember, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Chevrolet and some GMC units that used faux mag wheel lug nuts. They were cheapy thin walled caps over the lug nuts and if you were the next guy after some tire store kid that was impact happy, they stripped right off. You had to 'peel' the fake caps off to get to the lug nut itself and then use a metric socket or as just noted, a half sized socket to get them off.

 I had to replace all the lug nuts on my '90 half-ton Suburban because of those stupid stainless covers. They kept getting stuck in the socket, and of course once it's off the nut the socket doesn't fit correctly anymore. I just went with plain old ugly lug nuts so that will never happen again.

[TJ Hopland]

One thing that makes those covered nuts worse is using the wrong size socket and an impact.  If the socket is a little too big all the force is more concentrated near the tip of the corners and as the hammer hits and you get that little bounce back you might as well be whacking them with a hammer.   So maybe in that case a little rust jacking helps?  If the fit is tighter the load is slightly more spread out and you don't get as much of a running start before the impact.

I just typed a long paragraph about metric and sae nut sizes theorizing what is likely the wrong combo that gets used but then realized my example sizes can't really be possible so I'm gonna have to go out and investigate.  I'm thinking I'm miss remembering what sizes I am using and either have some sort of muscle memory and just grab the right ones without thinking about it or maybe grab a whole handful and don't remember the trial and error process every time. 

The covered ones do help if you have any exposure to salt especially if there is nothing else to at least shield direct splashes. I recently went and bought the chrome ones for one of my trailers because corrosion has been a huge problem with it.  We will see how that works out for me next time I have to remove a wheel.  Before I did that was for sure a time I was doing thread repair due to the rust. 

The system I kinda like is I think it was the 90's GM trucks that had the plastic nut caps that threaded onto special threads on the outside of the actual nuts.  I have not had any of those get stuck on.

[Cadman-iac]

  Yeah, by the time I got the Suburban it had been at countless tire shops in its life so the covers on the nuts had pretty much had it.

As for rust making the socket fit better, I would think that when you put pressure on it to turn it the rust would just crumble.
One good thing about living in the southwest is we normally don't see much rust unless it drove here from up north, (imported if you will) lol!

[Cadman-iac]

Along the same line as Clay's tool, but more bulky, this is the centering punch set I traded a set of pistons for. I don't use them much, but they are very helpful if you are trying to copy a hole pattern from one piece to another.
Find the one that matches the hole diameter and insert it with your new piece under the existing one and your punch mark is perfectly centered on the new piece.

[Lexi]

Got me some of those transfer punches myself, but looks like you got a more complete set. They are very useful indeed. Related to these tools, are "Hinge Bits". They don't punch, however, but center your drill bit prior to the actual drilling procedure. Attached is a photo of a set. Yes, I have used them, and just slip them back in the blister pack via a slit I made in the clear plastic. Not sure how useful it would prove in general automobile repair, but for those who are restoring 1930s and back vehicles that use a lot of wood, they might prove beneficial. Such as rebuilding your V16 Cadillac golf bag storage bin, or a similar area where there is hinge or bracket hardware. These hinge bits self center in the hole drill outs, to effectively center the drill bit which is encased inside the guide. I imagine that any project where you must drill a hole into wood or metal, where there is already an entry hole provided in a hinge or a bracket, this tool would help. They guide the enclosed drill bit accurately into fresh new wood or metal. So yes, still of some use in the automotive rebuild world, but of more use to the fine woodworker. Sort of similar only in appearance to a mortising bit (square hole bit) cutter. Clay/Lexi

P.S. Or use to attach your hinge hardware to the doors on the automotive storage cabinet you plan to make for your garage...

[Lexi]

Here is another very useful tool that I have been using for the last couple of years. This Braun 900 lumens flashlight. It has a powerful magnetic base, and also a multi positional swivel head. These functions are great when you are under your Cadillac and need light as well as an extra hand. Just magnetically attach the light to a suitable metal surface nearby, swivel the head to get the light to point where you want, and choose the intensity setting. Horrible Fright (Harbour Freight) sells them. You can also clip them inside your pocket and their hex end cap (and pocket clip), keeps it from rolling away on you. Perhaps best of all it is rechargeable, and that charge last a long time. Best small flashlight I have used so far. Extremely bright. No, I don't work for Harbour Freight. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

  I've wanted to get one of those self activated punches like you've got, always forget to look for it when I go to town.

Those hinge bits, what centers it in the hole? Maybe a picture of one outside the package?

I've actually got one more small set of the transfer punches, but it's basically the same as one of the others in the picture. I replace ones that get messed up out of the extra set, that keeps the big set complete.

I like the magnet feature on the flashlight. I use one a lot when I'm under a vehicle, and it's always irritating when the damned thing falls on my head because it won't stay in place. And those Maglights hurt!!

Rick

[TJ Hopland]

Those hinge bits are for sure in the never knew they existed.  I had to dig a bit (pun time) to figure out what they were and what they did.  Interesting but I can't think of too many times for me where it would have been worth the trouble to swap bits.

I have had an automatic center punch forever.  Someone gave it to me for free because I think the actual pointy bit was damaged beyond repair so I made a new one from scratch in high school metal shop. I remember doing the hardening process.  For working on something that is well supported regular punch with hammer I think is faster and gets you a better divot plus you can possibly use a transfer punch.  IF what you are working on is poorly supported then the auto still can work.  The other place I use it for a lot is when you are trying to bang up something like a damaged bearing bore.

And on the light front this is the light was one I was very curious about.  Seems like with all the options you should have a pretty good chance of getting the light you need.  Or is it a case where its trying to do too much so none of them are really useful?

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lumen-dual-sided-rechargeable-slim-bar-light-with-uv-inspection-70198.html
   

[Lexi]

Those hinge bits, what centers it in the hole? Maybe a picture of one outside the package?
Rick

Ideally, the hole should be chamferred as the hinge bit tool has a bevelled edge which is intended to slide into the sloped, downward edge of the pre-drilled hole. The tool is then centered, so consequently the drilling is in the center. Can try and get a photo if you like. Clay/Lexi