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1959 cadillac sedan deville "easy restoration"

Started by Roman_cadillac, December 21, 2024, 06:03:08 PM

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Roman_cadillac

Next comes painting

factory color "red oxide"

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Roman_cadillac

After painting the body, the work underneath
was completed.

Some of the body paint was sprayed underneath as at the factory

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Roman_cadillac


Roman_cadillac

Next I applied the coating approximately as at the factory

I took the photo of the car with the factory coating from this forum

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Roman_cadillac


Roman_cadillac


The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Roman,

That is what I call, going above and beyond.  As you have found out, Sand Blasting will simply bounce off any rubberised coatings like seam sealer and sound deadening, as well as grease.

One thing that I have found is that when any electrical connection, be it a ground or anything where paint is applied, these spots need to be devoid of paint or you will be chasing wiring issues for a long time.

Remember that the original paint was really thin, and the final proofcoating was applied after the car was assembled.  This meant that any electrical connections (Grounds) hit metal when they were screwed into the body or chassis.

Bruce. >:D 
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

James Landi

Terrific effort--- well done..Enjoying your pictures... (those flexible brake lines look old and dangerous though!)   

Roman_cadillac

Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 22, 2024, 06:22:48 PMG'day Roman,

That is what I call, going above and beyond.  As you have found out, Sand Blasting will simply bounce off any rubberised coatings like seam sealer and sound deadening, as well as grease.

One thing that I have found is that when any electrical connection, be it a ground or anything where paint is applied, these spots need to be devoid of paint or you will be chasing wiring issues for a long time.

Remember that the original paint was really thin, and the final proofcoating was applied after the car was assembled.  This meant that any electrical connections (Grounds) hit metal when they were screwed into the body or chassis.

Bruce. >:D 

I agree! I installed grounding strips. They connect the firewall and the engine.

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Roman_cadillac

Quote from: James Landi on December 23, 2024, 07:35:25 AMTerrific effort--- well done..Enjoying your pictures... (those flexible brake lines look old and dangerous though!)   

It is better to do this with a lift.

Roman_cadillac

After painting, the frame was delivered and assembly began.

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The suspension parts are sandblasted and painted with polymer paint

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New suspension patrs! Shafts and ball joint

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All screws and fasteners have been replated

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Roman_cadillac

#31
Before installing the shaft bushings, it is necessary to spread the suspension arms

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I made a homemade spreader

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I tightened the bushings with an impact wrench.

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OEM lower arm bumpers

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Assembled suspension arms

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Roman_cadillac

Oil shock absorbers sandblasted and painted

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Oem coil spring sandblastged and painted

The springs are marked with gray paint as at the factory.

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Assembling the front suspension using studs of different sizes

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Spring insulator

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Roman_cadillac


James Landi

It's interesting to note that during the 1961 model year the upper control arms were re-designed, and king pins were gave way to ball joints. During that period, our family had a '60 and a '61, and the differences were noticeable. I concluded that while the change over provided more precise steering and less "float," the redesign required less tire pressure (spec at 24 ft and 22 rear) to provide less harshness.  Thank you for sharing your journey with us Roman.   James

Roger Zimmermann

The king pin was used till 1956. From 1957, ball joints were used on the front suspension.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Roman_cadillac

After the front suspension, restored the steering All steering elements are original, except for the steering tips and pitman arm. All hardware is zinc coated. Springs are oxidized

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These parts are not in very good condition. I don't quite understand what they are for.  I left them as is

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The problem on 1959-60 Cadillacs is a defective pitman arm. There was a recall

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I couldn't find numbers on the pitman arm. My Cadillac is an early 1959, all the parts where the date is visible are stamped 1958. I think the pitman arm was not changed. I replaced it.

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Wanted to install a new idler arm. The new arm had more play than the factory one. Unfortunately, the new parts are much worse than the factory parts. Sandblasted, painted and installed the original idler arm.

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Everything is easy to assemble

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It is important to align the triangular spacer to match the holes for the oil press

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Roman_cadillac

My friend re-sealed and adjusted the steering gearbox.

I sandblasted and painted it

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The steering is installed

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Cadman-iac

Roman,

 The purpose of these stainless steel cups is to prevent your grease from leaking out around the holes where the pitman and idler arms go into the center-link assembly.

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 When I rebuilt the steering on my 56 I couldn't figure out what purpose those things served either, until I went to grease everything, then it became obvious.
 The dust covers around the pitman arm ball and the idler arm ball being metal with no actual rubber seal of any kind just keeps the dirt from getting into the openings where the grease comes out. Without the cups installed, the openings are bigger than the dust shields and your grease is exposed to the elements.

 I couldn't find new ones for my car and figured they weren't really necessary so I left them out. It was only when I began to pump the grease into the fittings that I realized what they did.
 I even tried to find someone who could make new ones but nobody was willing to try or just unable to.
 So yours don't look too bad, I'd just reuse them. You'll regret not putting them in.

 Nice job on your car too. I like the abundance of pictures. Thanks for posting them.

 Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

kudims

Roman, tell us what was next in your project, please.