Delco 111900X OEM versus an equivalent replacement voltage regulators

[J. Gomez]

So this is one of those situations where you spend hours and $$ while throwing parts when working on your problems, not to mention the colorful words shout while trying to resolve the issue.   

One of my main issues was with the charging system on my 1956, I was getting intermittent problems with either the "GEN" light staying on at idle (about half bright) and not turning off until the RPMs were around 1000 plus, or not charging at high RPM (around 1500).

My original generator was fully rebuilt (I did it a few years ago) and it was tested before I installed it. The original VR was also replaced with an aftermarket equivalent replacement. Testing everything (I have a Sun VAT tester) showed all good during the tests; "however" gradually it got worse.

After a few new VR replacements and more of the "colorful words", and a few tools slammed on the floor  , I had to stop and go back to square one.
 
So I'm sharing this document of my frustrations as an FYI to other members in case you run into the same problem as I did.   

Enjoy it...!

[Jay Friedman]

José, an auto electrician friend once told me that while some after market VRs are good, some are not.  He said it's always best to install an NOS Delco VR using the model number VR your car was originally equipped with. I have always been able to find them for my '49 either on ebay or from Dennis Akerman in New Hampshire.

[J. Gomez]

José, an auto electrician friend once told me that while some after market VRs are good, some are not.  He said it's always best to install an NOS Delco VR using the model number VR your car was originally equipped with. I have always been able to find them for my '49 either on ebay or from Dennis Akerman in New Hampshire.

Jay,

I totally agree that nothing beats an OEM replacement in most cases.   

What is frustrating is even the Delco which should be equivalent replacement and with the correct stencil part # and "Made in USA" as well is not made the same as the OEM. 

Oh well as our old friend John Washburn used to say "glad this is just a hobby..!"   

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Jose for your involment with this issue. I have a similar one; but for the moment it's not too dramatic. Of course, I have a replacement VR, the original one is long gone.

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

So this is one of those situations where you spend hours and $$ while throwing parts when working on your problems, not to mention the colorful words shout while trying to resolve the issue.   

One of my main issues was with the charging system on my 1956, I was getting intermittent problems with either the "GEN" light staying on at idle (about half bright) and not turning off until the RPMs were around 1000 plus, or not charging at high RPM (around 1500).

My original generator was fully rebuilt (I did it a few years ago) and it was tested before I installed it. The original VR was also replaced with an aftermarket equivalent replacement. Testing everything (I have a Sun VAT tester) showed all good during the tests; "however" gradually it got worse.

After a few new VR replacements and more of the "colorful words", and a few tools slammed on the floor  , I had to stop and go back to square one.
 
So I'm sharing this document of my frustrations as an FYI to other members in case you run into the same problem as I did.   

Enjoy it...!

Thanks Jose, I was considering buying a new voltage regulator as my original is overcharging the battery. Maybe I should try adjusting it as per the manual rather than replacing it?

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

I had an issue with an aftermarket one. I tried to adjust the point gap to tweak the charging rate or cutout or something like that and it didn't work right. So, I returned it.
The next brand new one I bought had the same issue.
I called the tech support line for the manufacturer and they told me that you didn't adjust thr point gap anymore- you adjust the spring tension. So you bend the ear on the arm that attaches to the spring to allow the points to close sooner or later. I did that and it has worked perfectly ever since.
So, just a suggestion.

[J. Gomez]

Thanks Jose, I was considering buying a new voltage regulator as my original is overcharging the battery. Maybe I should try adjusting it as per the manual rather than replacing it?

Phil,

As Jay stated above stick with the "Real McCoy OEM" if you are lucky having one, making the adjustments per the Service Manual will give you a peace of mind.   

Good luck..!

[J. Gomez]

I had an issue with an aftermarket one. I tried to adjust the point gap to tweak the charging rate or cutout or something like that and it didn't work right. So, I returned it.
The next brand new one I bought had the same issue.
I called the tech support line for the manufacturer and they told me that you didn't adjust thr point gap anymore- you adjust the spring tension. So you bend the ear on the arm that attaches to the spring to allow the points to close sooner or later. I did that and it has worked perfectly ever since.
So, just a suggestion.

Jeff,

You are correct the only adjustments made to the new replacements are just bending the tabs at the relay to increase or decrease the spring tension for the relay to operate or release at different rates.   

With a new VR (the ones I replace in my case), I usually adjust the "Cutout Relay" to around 12V (give or take) depending on the VR brand I may need to increase it a bit to care for any residual left on the generator to hold it closed (your GEN light will stay on with the IGN key off). I leave the "Voltage Regulator relay" as is, since this one vibrates at a higher rates during charging. As for the "Current Regulator" is a 50/50 depending on generator to produce the correct amps.

Adjusting the "Cutout Relay" is very easy if you have a variable power supply, you place the +voltage on the "ARM/GEN" side and the – to the chassis of the VR, adjust the power supply and the spring tension to the correct setting.

The problem is because the resistor in connected to the "ARM/GEN" to chassis ground (via the CR and VR relay contacts) this resistor will get "hot" during this adjustment unless one opens either or both of the contacts for the adjustment. 

Second if the generator may produce a very low voltage (at idle) at the "ARM" side (3V-4V) this again will be dropped by the same resistor to ground. Not enough for the resistor to get "hot" but it will be very warm.

As Jay stated above it maybe one of these things were a VR maybe good while others are not.    

Thanks for the tip..!

[Jay Friedman]

I just want to add one more remark my auto electrician friend told me some years ago.  A voltage regulator must be of the same amperage rating as the generator.  Some of the  after market VRs are rated for a range of amperage--30-40 amps, for example--which can be problematic.