1950s Rear axel oil seals question

[Daffer]

Im having my brakes completely redone and in the process my mechanic found the front bearing seals where bad so there been replaced. Got a call today saying that the rear is leaking rear end gear oil into the drum rear brakes. Not sure how bad it is but I've been told a cost of $570 should I get it done?

[Jay Friedman]

Im having my brakes completely redone and in the process my mechanic found the front bearing seals where bad so there been replaced. Got a call today saying that the rear is leaking rear end gear oil into the drum rear brakes. Not sure how bad it is but I've been told a cost of $570 should I get it done?

If the cure is replacing the rear axle seals, in my opinion $570 to do that job alone is a very expensive.  Or, does the $570 also include the other work to be done?  If the rear axle on your '50 (or is it a '51?) is anything like my '49's, you should be able to either replace the axle seals yourself--as it is not a complicated or difficult job--or else find another mechanic who would be less expensive.   

[tcom2027]

Good morning,

Short answer, yes, however if there is only seepage and crud around the seal and the brake  shoes aren't contaminated, a clean up and new shoes should suffice.

 I would either go the shop and take a look or at or have the shop send you a couple of pictures of the backing plates with the drums removed and make a decision based on that. 

I may be incorrect, but I believe the rear axle seals are pressed in the  four bolt cap holding the backing plate on and centering  the axle. Not a big job to replace.

Assuming the $540 is  labor for all  all brakes, repack front wheel  and replace rear wheel seals is a pretty good deal. THat's based labor rates in our area of $145-165/ flat rate hour. Old cars, strictly time and materials.

tony

[Daffer]

If the cure is replacing the rear axle seals, in my opinion $570 to do that job alone is a very expensive.  Or, does the $570 also include the other work to be done?  If the rear axle on your '50 (or is it a '51?) is anything like my '49's, you should be able to either replace the axle seals yourself--as it is not a complicated or difficult job--or else find another mechanic who would be less expensive.   

I should've mentioned its for my 1950 cadillac. $570 is the cost with labor to replace just the rear axeloil seals. which I was looking at my shop manual it definitely seems labor intensive. Im leaning towards having it done so that ill be good for 50years hopefully. But I still like to hear what everyone thinks.

Edit: talked with my mechanic love this place they've been there since the 50s and my grandfather then my dad now me has gone there and my grandparent's and dad even used to be neighbors with them in the 60s. But the axel shaft bearings are being replaced aswell thats why the shaft would be pulled, so now with all the info do you guys think this is something that should be done? Like I said im leaning towards it just so its good but id lije to hear what everyone has to say. Thanks

[tcom2027]

I see, then your car doesn't have a chevron type seal, rather than the o-ring type which is a little more work to replace. 

tony

[35-709]

Cost notwithstanding, those seals should be replaced or they will just continue leaking and ruin those nice new brake shoes you are having installed.  If those are the original seals, you have done very well, but be certain that your mechanic also checks to make sure your axle breather is not plugged with dirt, etc.  The air in the axle needs to be able equalize as it heats and cools during use, if not pressure builds and will force axle lube past even good seals and you are back to square one.

[Daffer]

Cost notwithstanding, those seals should be replaced or they will just continue leaking and ruin those nice new brake shoes you are having installed.  If those are the original seals, you have done very well, but be certain that your mechanic also checks to make sure your axle breather is not plugged with dirt, etc.  The air in the axle needs to be able equalize as it heats and cools during use, if not pressure builds and will force axle lube past even good seals and you are back to square one.

I had no idea ill let him know about that breather hole, I bet its clogged because the amount of grease on this car was just insane I mean I think it helped protect everything but it was everywhere (still on part of the chassis, i still have sone cleaning) and so thick that while cleaning i would be amazed that,  thats what a part actually looked like. Thank you for that info

[Jay Friedman]

That's good advice from 35-709 regarding the breather hole.

.....But the axel shaft bearings are being replaced aswell thats why the shaft would be pulled, so now with all the info do you guys think this is something that should be done? Like I said im leaning towards it just so its good but id lije to hear what everyone has to say. Thanks

The axle shafts have to be pulled to replace the seals and it's a good idea to replace the bearings at the same time.  Unlike just changing the seals which as I said is really not very complicated, changing the axle bearings does require special knowledge and skills.  So if the $570 does include replacing the bearings as well as the seals, then in my opinion it is a good deal.

[Daffer]

The axle shafts have to be pulled to replace the seals and it's a good idea to replace the bearings at the same time.  Unlike just changing the seals which as I said is really not very complicated, changing the axle bearings does require special knowledge and skills.  So if the $570 does include replacing the bearings as well as the seals, then in my opinion it is a good deal.

Well thank you i appreciate the input. Yea the cost includes replacing the bearings and seals. Was reading my shop manual yesterday and I agree definitely is alot of work. I gave him a call and told him he can do it. Plus might aswell have it done while its at his shop. Thanks again everyone!

[Big Fins]

It seems the cost of just parts has tripled in just a few years. Even common ones for more modern cars.
Add in a same cost of labor adjustment and it takes the fun out of it sometimes.

[Davidcamper]

Attached pic is where the vent hole is. It's under the brake line tab. It's about 1/8" in diameter. I just cleaned mine out last week when I changed pinion seal. 99% sure yours is stopped up.

[Davidcamper]

See pic

[Daffer]

Attached pic is where the vent hole is. It's under the brake line tab. It's about 1/8" in diameter. I just cleaned mine out last week when I changed pinion seal. 99% sure yours is stopped up.

Thank you for that! thats gonna help alot

[Davidcamper]

This is Mr Gomez's picture. If he hadn't done this I would never have found it.