1971 de Ville Questions from a newbie to the hobby

[TJ Simonson]

Hi All! I am 17 and just got my first car!  Its a 1971 Cadillac that belonged to my Grandfather originally.  My Uncle had it for around ten years and he just died and left it to me. It already has the shop and body manuals, but either Im dumber than I thought or sometimes these things seem like theyre written in a foreign language.  I want to keep it as original as possible but I do have questions about a few things. Sorry to take up so much of your time.  Ive been reading this board since I was 13 and came across it.  Okay, # 1, I dont think it rides as nicely as a Caddy should.  The tires are only 3 or 4 years old(maybe 4 - 5 k miles on them), my Dads mechanic says the shocks arent leaking (although the grommets ? on the rears are gone).  I have tires at 28 pounds and the car has 95000 miles on it.  To me it doesnt float like it should, to me it feels like it rides like a pickem up truck.   #2 2 of the windows are very slow or only go down part way.  If I want to lube them, what do I use? How tough of a job is it? Im pretty mechnically inclined and we have quite a few tools. Do I need to clean the old stuff out first?  All of a sudden thats all that I remember.  Thank you everyone for any tips you may have.  Have a wicked cool weekend!

TJ  (Teej)

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Gday Teej,

Sorry to hear about the passing of your Uncle, but he has done a good thing by leaving the car to you.   He must have seen in you the idea that you were going to preserve it.

Now, the first thing I would recommend is that you read the Workshop and Body Manuals from end to end, then backwards, as these two volumes will tell you everything anout making your vehicle a keeper, and if you follow those instructions, you cant go too far wrong.   Even fully trained Mechanics use these "Bibles" for reference, all the time.

Now, As far as the comments from your mechanic, I would also be looking for a person that owns a similar vehicle and having him or her test drive it, and get their opinion.   Shocker rubbers are replaceable, and dont cost much, but if the car has Radial Tyres, I would be recommending 30 to 34 psi pressure, for safety.

Now, slow windows.....could be a number of things from a poor battery voltage, to a buildup of grime and dirt in the runners, to very stiff grease in the sliders, to a rusted and binding lift mechanism, to degrading wiring and simply lack of use.

The Manuals will give you step-by-step instructions on what is required to check and adjust.

Have fun, and dont try and take short-cuts, as these tend to be recipies for disaster.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

[Porter]

Bruce,

We all get the slow windows eventually, like my 66 CDV had.

The white grease just cakes up hard. Clean all that stuff out and lube the tracks and gear motor with fresh white (lithium ? )grease and oil up any pivot points, my windows operate with ease now. Did tweak the adjustment on the front windows a tad for a better fit.

The fun part is removing the interior panels, a few hidden screws here or there, the vent window crank clips for non power vent windows and that tool for the lower hidden pressure fit clips is handy.

Got me swingin on the rough ride, usually the factory marginal shocks are worn out and the car will wallow on the road.

Push down on the car front or back with both hands, it should rebound and then just sit there, not bounce up and down a few times.

Sources for parts and a handy reference:

http://www.rockauto.com/ TARGET=_blank>http://www.rockauto.com/

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=0 TARGET=_blank>http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=0

HTH,

Porter

[Andrew 10638]

Teej,

Youve got good advice already, so I am going to go off track and ask a couple questions, because the CLC is constantly trying to figure out how to attract new members under 25, so please indulge me:)

1.  How did you find out about the CLC?  Website or relative?
2.  Do you read the magazine?
3.  What do you like/dislike about this BB or the magazine, and what other Cadillac sites do you visit?

Just curious!

Good luck with the 71, its a classic!!

[Rusty Shepherd CLC 6397]

Most after-market shocks (usually Monroe or Sears and generally called heavy duty)are much stiffer than the factory units and these can make a drastic difference in ride comfort particularly the ones in the rear of the car. Shocks absorbers dont actually absorb shock, they control rebound and some of them do too good a job of that. They can make a large, softly sprung car like a 71 Cadillac feel very stiff-legged and rough. My parents had a 73 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight and after the installation of a set of "Monro-Matic" lifetime shock absorbers, the ride was so stiff and my mother complained so much about it that my dad ordered OEM Delco shocks at the Olds dealer and had it retrofitted and it again rode like a 5,000 pound, 127"  wheelbase car should. BTW: Im glad to hear you want to keep your car as near to factory-new as possible.

[Porter]

Bruce,

We all get the slow windows eventually, like my 66 CDV had.

The white grease just cakes up hard. Clean all that stuff out and lube the tracks and gear motor with fresh white (lithium ? )grease and oil up any pivot points, my windows operate with ease now. Did tweak the adjustment on the front windows a tad for a better fit.

The fun part is removing the interior panels, a few hidden screws here or there, the vent window crank clips for non power vent windows and that tool for the lower hidden pressure fit clips is handy.

Got me swingin on the rough ride, usually the factory marginal shocks are worn out and the car will wallow on the road.

Push down on the car front or back with both hands, it should rebound and then just sit there, not bounce up and down a few times.

Sources for parts and a handy reference:

http://www.rockauto.com/ TARGET=_blank>http://www.rockauto.com/

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=0 TARGET=_blank>http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=0

HTH,

Porter

Clarification:

I meant the motor exterior gear teeth, although there is grease inside the motor, that is a specialized (and potentially dangerous)operation to remove the motor.

There might be some excessive friction on the vertical "U" channel front and rear of the glass, possible adjustment or lube the channels.

Never replaced grommets on a shock, seems to me the shocks are toasted at that point.

Porter

[Johnny #662]

You might want to also check the springs.  They have been bearing the weight of the car for almost 36 years, and they can sag, taking away from the ride....

[TJ Simonson]

Thanks for the sympathies.  Well miss him, but it is part of life. Plus he lead a very full and fun filled life. I dont know if I have the attention span to read the shop and body manuals end to end, hahaha, but Ill try.  A buddy at school has someone in his family with a 72 and Ive ridden in that several times and it rode my nicer than mine.   Thanks for all the tips Bruce, I have written them down and will watch for those things when looking at the windows!   Take care and enjoy your weekend!

TJ

[TJ Simonson]

Hi Porter, thanks for the tips!  Ill add those in with Bruces on my tip sheet.  As for the ride, its not bouncy, its very, very stiff like a truck. There rebound, but it takes a lot of effort!  Thanks for the links as well, Ive added them to my favorites list!   Have a good day Porter!

TJ

[TJ Simonson]

Hi Andrew. Thanks for thinking enough of me to ask those questions.  I actually found the CLC website 4 years ago while playing on the internet looking for stuff about my favorite old car.  Now I have to be dumb and ask what magazine?  I cant say theres anything about this site I dont find cool and helpful. Its set up so its easy to use.  My Dad has a 66 Lincoln convertible and the Lincoln website he uses is so freakin confusing!  I think its called the LCOC or something.  I think they broke it down to too many sub categories and its a pain to read.  It also doesnt seem to have as many people participating or returning posts. Hopefully that all makes sense. Have a great day!

TJ

[TJ Simonson]

Thats exactly what I was thinking, that they must be heavy duty and like truck shocks.  Is ordering OEM shocks from the Caddy dealer my only option to getting factory like shocks? Another friend has a Mark IV and man his car rides the way a big luxury car is supposed to ride!  I hate to think what the Cadillac dealer is going to soak me for shocks but Ill give them a call. I may be a young guy, but I guess I am different from lots of others.  I dont like the big wheels and hydrolic suspensions and booming radios others do.  I want my car to be as close to factory as possible, with some changes made to update it and make it more practical to drive.  My Uncle had changed the ignition system to a High Energy Ignition I think its called.  One of the few changes I will make, and will make some people cringe is that I do want to put duals on it.  Nothing really loud or big pipes sticking out.  Id want the tips to be as discreet as factory. Just a small turn down behind the bumper.  Thanks again for all the info! Have a great day!

TJ

[TJ Simonson]

The car sits perfectly, so I dont think the springs are bad. Can bad springs cause it to ride roughly?  Thanks for the tip! Have a great day!

TJ

[Johnny #662]

The car sits perfectly, so I dont think the springs are bad. Can bad springs cause it to ride roughly?  Thanks for the tip! Have a great day!

TJ

To be perfectly honest, I really cant say one way or the other. I suggested the checking the springs as they are part of the whole suspension system.  With older cars, its better to have the correct shocks, and tires and the springs to be in decent condition.

[Porter]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1025389,parttype,7556 TARGET=_blank>http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1025389,parttype,7556

 
http://198.208.187.182/internet/Vehicle.jsp TARGET=_blank>http://198.208.187.182/internet/Vehicle.jsp
 
1971 CADILLAC DEVILLE V8 7.7L 472cid GAS CARB N  
Qty Req Qty ACDelco Part# Description
SUSPENSION / SHOCK ABSORBER  
  02  520-371  ABSORBER,FRT SHK  GAS CHARGED  
     02  520-372  ABSORBER,RR SHK  GAS CHARGED
 
 
 

[Porter]

The car sits perfectly, so I dont think the springs are bad. Can bad springs cause it to ride roughly?  Thanks for the tip! Have a great day!

TJ

To be perfectly honest, I really cant say one way or the other. I suggested the checking the springs as they are part of the whole suspension system.  With older cars, its better to have the correct shocks, and tires and the springs to be in decent condition.

There should be a specification, a measured height dimension for the body off the ground for the springs, on a level suface, etc.

In my experience only springs that are always under full load or high mileage show signs of failure or a sagging body.

My 67 CDV project car shocks are shot, you can push the car down easily at the trunk and it will bounce up and down a few times.

I agree with Rusty, the shocks are most likely heavy duty.

Porter

[TJ Simonson]

Thank you all for your help! Youre awesome!  Porter, should I assume that if theyre AC DElco, that they are like the originals and not heavy duty?  That may be a dumb question, sorry if it is.  Is changing shocks super hard?   Thanks again everyone, this is an awesome resource, especially for someone new.

TJ

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Gday Teej,

I am going to come in here re the changing of the Shocks.

The hardest part is parting with the cash for the replacements.

But, before you do anything that rash, it would pay you to get the ones already on the car checked out first.

The Shock Absorbers job is not to stop the spring from going up, but to stop the spring from instantly rebounding down when the compression pressures are released.

You should be able to push the body of the car down, then let it go, and if the shockers are good, the body will rise up once, and then settle back to normal ride height.

Try that on each corner and see how the car reacts.

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

[Porter]

Those would be comparable to original,modern day equivalent, most likely better. Technology has changed quite a bit, any AC Delco part they sell is an OE (original equipment) replacement part unless stated otherwise.

Easy to change on a lift, PIA in the driveway with a car on jack stands.

Perform Bruces shock test, you might have one bum shock. With those worn toasted rear rubber bushings I would just replace all four.

They dont charge much for shock absorber R&R.

Oh boy, after this you can get into the fun stuff: hoses,belts,fluids,tune up, check the brakes, etc.

The car needs a thorough going over and safety inspection.

Porter

[TJ Simonson]

The car doesnt bounce and other than the rubber grommets on the rear shocks, our mechanic says the shocks are fine.  Its ME that doesnt like the ride and thinks its too stiff.  My uncle was really good about taking it in whenever it needed something, or if it was in for its twice yearly mechanic visit, if the mechanic found anything needing attention, it was taken care of.  So, it is very safe and it has been well maintained all of its life. Thanks for the concern though! Thats mighty kind of you!  I hope everyone had a good weekend!

TJ

[Johnny #662]

The car doesnt bounce and other than the rubber grommets on the rear shocks, our mechanic says the shocks are fine.  Its ME that doesnt like the ride and thinks its too stiff.  My uncle was really good about taking it in whenever it needed something, or if it was in for its twice yearly mechanic visit, if the mechanic found anything needing attention, it was taken care of.  So, it is very safe and it has been well maintained all of its life. Thanks for the concern though! Thats mighty kind of you!  I hope everyone had a good weekend!

TJ

As I remember Cadillacs of that era, had that soft "riding on a cloud" ride, and not stiff at all.  Like you said it could be you, and you expected more then what really is there.  Try to get a ride in a early 70s Caddy for comparison.