Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1976 Sedan Deville Steerin...

Last post by "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364 - Today at 03:04:00 PM

TJ
ALL dedicated (to specific operations) tools are designed specifically for the task intended. Jury rigged substitute devices are by their very nature less effective
Greg Surfas

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1976 Sedan Deville Steerin...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 02:41:11 PM

I think one reason the dedicated pullers work well is they grab a bit further in than the typical universal pullers do and most of the arms tend to have a slightly rounded edge which leaves even less for them to grab.  Its also nice that they don't move unless you have the fancy jaw pullers that have the clamping ring to hold the arms in position.

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1978 Eldorado idle/smooth ...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 02:33:48 PM

I have to go do a few things at the moment and don't for sure know where my 77 manual is, I would have expected the supplement to have the tune up section it it still since that would be something that changes year to year.  I can't remember 77 is mostly white with a blue border?  And the 78's are brown?  Or Dark blue?   If anyone knows let me know that may help me spot them in the stacks of crap I have everywhere.

Sounds like the EGR may have been stuck shut which would not be causing your issues.  Shut is the default position with no vacuum signal.  Air rushing out when you move it sounds normal.  If you move it and hold it then put your finger over the port then let go it should more or less hold that position till you open the port again.  I'm not thinking egr has anything to do with your issue unless its hooked to the wrong place on the carb and running at the wrong times.  Till you get the idle issues worked out it should not hurt to disconnect and plug the vac line.

Seems like a goodish sign that there isn't a brake booster port on the carb, at least it was the right one at one time.  Who knows if the innards are right but getting the right body seems like a good start. 

I always forget about the timing chain.  Quick check is to pull the distributor cap and rock the crank back and fourth and see how far you have to rotate after you change directions before the rotor changes directions.  If you have one that is almost gone its super obvious because you end up rotating an inch or two on the pulley before the rotor catches up.  Slight problem is Cadillac didn't include a crank bolt on this engine family so there isn't any easy way to rock it unless its a really loose engine with the plugs out and its a model with a solid fan.  If you are going to work on more of these engines picking up a bolt and washer for your tool box may not be a bad idea. 

Im thinking the thin area on the intake is maybe between the big and small bores like where the 2 different circles meet?  Its only a couple MM's wide right there so not a lot of area to grab a gasket.  I doubt the intake is warped but would not hurt to run a straight edge over it when you have it off just to make sure there isn't a blob of petrified gasket there you missed.  Also run the edge over the carb base, those are easy to warp because people think you have to torque them down to a few hundred foot pounds.  The front bolts you just damage the whole carb but those back ears will just bend.

For a compression test I would usually pinch off the fuel line and run the carb out of gas so you don't end up flooding it in the process.  Prop the choke and throttle fully open.  Pull all 8 plugs after blowing any loose crap out around them first.  Disconnect the fat B+ wire off the distributor cap so you are not shooting random sparks all over.  Hook up a battery charger and wait the same amount of time(ish) between tests so that the battery voltage will be similar for all cylinders.  You don't have to have a stop watch or anything just don't do 3 in a row then wait 10 mins because after the 10 mins the battery will have more of a charge.  If you don't use the charger the battery may get weak and slow down so your later tests will be lower.    You can kinda rush it the fist time and see what happens.  If they are all close don't worry about it.  If they are all over the place is when you want to be more careful and consistent to give it the best chance of accurate readings between cylinders which is what you are really looking for vs an absolute number.   

#4

General Discussion / Re: 1932 Cadillac V16 scale mo...

Last post by Stefan Bartelski (CLC Webmaster) - Today at 02:24:13 PM

Thanks Stefan! To make parts using a 3D printer, a good scan from the part(s) to be reproduced must be available. I don't have that, because I should have access to a real car amnd the scaning machine! This method would in any case be more accurate than my gessing...
Then, a philosophical question: is 3D printing still modeling? The sole skill needed is to be a computer's freak and have the printer. I don't have that skill nor the machines...

Roger, as many have posted above, there is a special value in the hand crafting. However, scanning is not usually used in 3D modeling. Instead, a 3D CAD pro0gram is used to 'draw' (or design) the required parts. You probably have a plan of the vehicle; it just needs to get converted into a 3d drawing.
Stefan

#5

For Sale - Cars / Re: 58 Eldo Seville for sale -...

Last post by Caddy Wizard - Today at 02:14:04 PM

Art,

That undistorted reflection on the driver's side paint says it all for me - quality, likely all around.

Have fun,
Steve B.

Yes.  Look at the pictures on the post for the coupe.  It is impressive paint work.  My Dad was a car painter and taught me the trade (although I was really a top-notch mechanic).  The paint work is of unsurpassed quality -- one can not do better.

#6

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 51 331 timing cover crank ...

Last post by 1959Fleetwood - Today at 01:46:25 PM

As other members suggest i too would change the timing cover to a later style (53-56) were a neoprene lip seal can be pressed in. Renew the felt ring with a cover still on the engine is not easy so to speak. However, if you remove the timing cover you will destroy the cork seal between the bottom of the timing cover and the front of the oil pan. To renew the half moon shaped cork seal and to get it in position in the correct way you have to remove your oil pan. (the same shape cork seal is also at the rear end of the oil pan) This is also a opportunity to clean out the oil pan from possible sludge and get rid of old brittle oil pan seals. Reinstalling the parts also has a sequence, first the new timing cover with seal installed and new gasket, then the half moon shaped cork seals at the lower end of the timing cover and the rear main bearing cap and then the oil pan. Use a little black silicone on all four corners were the oil pan gasket meets the half moon cork seal to make it free from oil leakkage. Now, if you want to go this far to change the timing cover you also have to pull the harmonic balancer, inspect this part for dry rotted rubber between the two steel parts. If the rubber vulcanization is dry rotted you have to have the balancer re-vulcanized. Check the surface of the outer shaft were the seal has to seal. Sometimes there's a groove on the outer shaft surface from wear of the old seal (common with lip seals)
If there's a groove or when there's pitting you can press on a thin wall Redi-sleeve to make the outer diameter of the balancer shaft smooth again. The part # for the repair sleeve is: National 99162. You can order that part through parts vendors in the USA or, since you are in the UK, give me a call, i have this part in stock also.
Hope this helps!

 

#7

General Discussion / Re: registration Gettysburg

Last post by Carfreak - Today at 01:20:40 PM

Your profile doesn't list your name

You must be using your phone because his name shows when using a laptop. 

With a phone you have to click on the User Name to see more profile details.

#8

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1972 Cadillac Climate Cont...

Last post by redcad59 - Today at 01:14:51 PM

I just hand-rebuilt the 72 TRANSDUCER to see A: if it was even possible, B: if i could figure out how to do it, C: if i could 'understand' exactly how it worked, and D: if it might actually be made to WORK, or at least give me a clue if the PROGRAMMER/BOX was ok. THE TRANSDUCER IS NOW FIXED.  Meanwhile, THE PROGRAMMER TESTS FAILED.  It failed the main electrical tests suggested in the original SHOP MANUAL.  I pulled the box out and tore it apart and found THE FEEDBACK SERVO/RESISTOR/POTENTIOMETER was BURNED. [ it had actually burned out LONG AGO ] - So NOW i am looking for an entire CLIMATE CONTROL PROGRAMMER/BOX.  *SIGH*

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1978 Eldorado idle/smooth ...

Last post by joeinbcs - Today at 01:10:58 PM

Thanks for the replies.  I'll respond below to each question:
1.  By pressure on the EGR, I meant how much force it takes to push the diaphragm up while the device is mounted on the car.  I could not move it, took it off, then got it to move, expelling air as I push it up.
2.  I bought a manual, but it turned out to be the "Supplement", as there is no 1978 manual.  This only covers diesel engines.  I would normally buy a full FSM, but I didn't think I would need it.  Now I wish I had one on hand.  I do not know anything about the peculiar timing method for this car.  If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.
The carb I ordered and installed is the correct number for this car:  17051958.  The seller's (US Carburetor) page contained this language:"From core to finished product, this carburetor was rebuilt to factory pre-set internal and external settings. In addition, this carburetor was tested on an engine simulator to ensure OEM specs are met or exceeded."
3.  There is no vacuum port at the back top that needs to be capped on this unit, only the outlet farther down that goes to the AT kick down.
4.  I'll clean up the EGR valve, which seems to be functioning, and reinstall.  Maybe a stuck valve was the problem, or part of it.
5.  I'll see if I can find any faults with the spacer, maybe take it out and replace with the gasket that came with the carb.
6.  Yes, I was thinking it might be time to do a compression check.  I think I have the tools to do that.
7.  I suppose the timing chain could be the culprit.  Thanks for the suggestion.  Hope it is something less invasive, as that's far beyond my modest capabilities.
Thanks a lot for your ideas/guidance.
Joe

#10

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1961 wiper arm removal

Last post by Big Fins - Today at 12:48:56 PM

I'm confused about what part he is trying to remove. Is it the entire arm off of the mounting to the transmission at the cowl grating, or the swivel section that holds the blade refill itself?