Recent posts

#91

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1937 Series 75 Fleetwood, ...

Last post by J. Skelly - May 17, 2024, 09:42:53 PM

You don't mention whether there is structural rust in addition to the surface rust on the body.  I think there is still a bit of structural wood in the body on the 75 series that year.  What condition is it in?  If all of that is sound, someone may want to use this car as the basis of a restoration instead of one they own with the issues I mentioned.   

#92

General Discussion / Re: The Real cost of operating...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - May 17, 2024, 09:30:08 PM

One question I do have is regarding infrequent use of EV's.

How long would it be for the batteries to self-degrade when the vehicle is only being used say to go to church on a Sunday?   Or for short journeys to the shop and back?

Everyone is talking about Range anxiety, but what about the opposite?

Lastly, I cannot see myself buying an EV, simply because of the expense, plus my own cars (ICE) still look very nice, which is why I purchased them in the first place.   And, are appreciating in value.

Bruce.

#93

General Discussion / Re: 1960 exhaust manifold

Last post by Clewisiii - May 17, 2024, 09:20:09 PM

I would say yes. I scraped gaskets off of my 61 when I disassembled it.

I also used high heat gasket sealant with the gaskets.

#94

General Discussion / 1960 exhaust manifold

Last post by 60eldo - May 17, 2024, 09:15:34 PM

 Got my engine back today. Very excited. Exhaust manifolds are not on the engine. Should I use gaskets or not. Ive never seen gaskets on them.

#95

General Discussion / Re: The Real cost of operating...

Last post by Stefan Bartelski (CLC Webmaster) - May 17, 2024, 05:45:00 PM

One argument that is made is that you would need to change tires more often due to weight.

I don't know if that is really true. Depends on the tire and driving style.

My Ford Focus was the worst. I had to change tires every 36-40,000 miles. My XTS only needed three sets of tires in 250,000 miles.

We test the drive and steering systems for electric vehicles with multiple size and styles of tires. Now I am not measuring tire longevity. But instead how does the cars drive and steering control systems react to the different tires installed. I cannot show pictures of the test vehicles since they are not Cadillacs. But here is my tire pile. We have several styles of tests and rigs that we will use to measure how these perform.

Yes, I drive a tesla Model 3. The tires to need more frequent replacement. On the other hand, no oil or fluid changes, (other than filling up the windshield washer). We charge at home, except on road trips, so "fuel" costs are much lower. On road trips "fuel" costs are about 1/2 of what I would pay for our ICE vehicle. We drive to Miami from Atlanta twice a year. Charging adds about 60 minutes (gross) to the trip, net effect is actually only 20-30 minutes if you factor in meal breaks and bathroom breaks that you would take in any kind of car.

#96

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1950 Delco Remy Starter ge...

Last post by ToddH - May 17, 2024, 05:08:54 PM

GENIUSES, all of you!! I took apart the solenoid to check on the copper disc washer and yep, it was totally pitted and marred. The other side was perfect so polished it, rotated the screw head, cleaned everything else and put it all back together.  The disc wasn't contacting the two solenoid screws very well either as the whole setup was skewed a bit so I straightened out what I could. 

I AlSO scraped off any painted areas that may have had grounding issues.  I then bench tested it with my 6 volt battery and TA DA!!  Hooked it back up and she starts like a charm.  Huge relief, thank you men!! 

PS - This car has been in our family since 1962!  We used it as our wedding car in 1988.  It was my uncles this whole time until last year when he turned 93 and asked if we wanted to buy it from him.  Heck ya.  Memories for a lifetime... 

#97

General Discussion / Re: The Real cost of operating...

Last post by TJ Hopland - May 17, 2024, 04:43:40 PM

I have not looked at every brand but the few I sort of looked at had a pretty long battery warranty so there are not very many of these cars out in the real world that are out of their battery warranty.  So for a 8 year warranty the 2015 models are now coming out of warranty and 2015 was about the time we started seeing EV's in significant numbers so its around now that there are getting to be lots of out of battery warranty cars out there. 

There are already companies doing repairs and rebuilds on the packs for the brands and models that have been around long enough and in great enough numbers to create a demand.  Where these fall in the whole legal and liability department is still a moving target with right to repair and other complications like insurance but it seems likely that there will be options to repair or replace a battery for less than the current MSRP from the OE brand. 

From what I have seen outright failures are not very common.  What does happen is degradation and that seems all over the map depending on many factors.  How does it effect the utility of the car?  Just like everything else maybe its not the right car for you anymore but it could be perfect for someone else.  Maybe you need 120 miles of range for your daily commute and after 5 years it will only do 100.  For sure doesn't make sense to buy an OE battery for a 5+ year old car but maybe there is the person out there that only has a 30 mile commute and previously could only afford a low end car but your higher end used car that has 100 mile range still left in it would be the perfect fit. 

#98

General Discussion / Re: The Real cost of operating...

Last post by James Landi - May 17, 2024, 03:45:18 PM

Carl,

Thank you for weighing in on your professional, scientific observations as well as your informed personal opinions. And I'm grateful to Steve B. for bringing up the topic.  There are so many cynical folks who've made a living spreading false information about an initiative that comprises less than 5% of the cars in service today.  I appreciate Carl's effort to drill down, not only on the rigorous testing and results, but also his cautionary approach to purchasing an all electric car. I especially appreciate his thinking regarding future engineering innovation and refinement.  There was a time in America when we celebrated innovation and advanced technology, and Carl's comprehensive response is cautiously optimistic.  I really like that kind of informed thinking.  Gratefully, James   

#99

For Sale - Cars / Re: Interesting History 41 Ca...

Last post by Bryan J Moran - May 17, 2024, 03:11:47 PM

Price is too high.  There is a 1949 Buick Roadmaster Sedanet being discussed on the AACA Forums - Buick Buy/Sell where the price is $24,995 and it is a nice original car with 66,000 miles, and is also a Hemmings ad. 

Some of the comments centered around how even though Sedanets are highly thought of, this era of car is seeing a soft market. 

To me, it is always disappointing when a next generation - or in this case - several next generations - owners ask outrageous money for a family heirloom. The family has completely enjoyed the car, it has only cost them maintenance and perhaps storage, and now they want $40,000?   I'm not saying the family needs fleeced, but they should join the CLC for $25, pay to have the car placed in the SS for 3 months and in this case (which I rarely suggest) take the highest offer after 3 months. 

They probably feel if they get $35,000 for it they are "giving it away."  Pricing cars smartly, to provide a profit or return on it's ownership, means knowing that "price sells cars."   

#100

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1937 Series 75 Fleetwood, ...

Last post by Bryan J Moran - May 17, 2024, 03:05:43 PM

My advice is to part it out.  While there are very few folks doing series 75 restorations, if any, anyone owning one could use some of the parts of the car.  I know of no one that would undertake such a restoration - spending $150,000 or more on a car, which while not the reason for the restoration - must be taken into consideration - would be worth $25,000 to perhaps $40,000, perhaps. 

I looked at 2 late 1930's 75 series restoration projects in the past year and ultimately passed on both of them.  One needed an unobtanium grille and sides to the hood, which a member said they had but were not willing to part with, in case their restored car had an accident. 

That grille alone is likely worth ? what guys? $1,500.  Fenders, interior bits, specific to that model parts are likely worth another $2,000 or so. 

If a person were to purchase as a project, as soon as you go to try and source a drivetrain and all necessary parts, the sellers are going to know (know!) you need those parts to restore a car, and cha-ching! Up goes the asking price.  I know this from experience having purchased incomplete 1930's cars, one a rare Chrysler Airflow, the other a 1936 Buick Roadmaster.   

I am negotiating a nice high driver level 75 Series which is at $20,000 or offer, and has been for well over one year.  So, if that ready to go car is $20,000 or best offer, and I know of at least one other 7p car, a 1941 Buick Limited for $19,900 also a driver, then $6,000 is way too high for a full-on project. You are asking roughly 30% of a fully functional 7P car, and these are just 2 examples.   

So, parting it out is your best option.  Put an ad in SS to reach the old guys with 75 series from the classic era.  Not sure about ebay, they seem to "hide" real parts among a bunch of stupid non applicable parts making it hard for real folks to find. 

You may be able to sell it wholesale to one of the few remaining Cadillac parts dealers, but you'd be looking at $1,000 or so. 

I know that is not the news you wanted to hear.  I would take it, but I am in Iowa and transport would add $2,000 so that would pretty much be my offer.