And after the 'red hot spark plug' fiasco I wouldn't blame any of you for ignoring me... I feel like such a girl.
I changed the top heater core hose without issue, from the top of the heater core to the top of the radiator, 3/4" hose.
The bottom one some previous owner butchered. It must have leaked and for some reason they cut the hose about a foot off the heater core, used a piece of pipe to connect the 2, and used 5/8 hose the rest of the way. Ergo that's original hose from the heater core to the butchering.
Shouldn't that be 3/4" hose? Isn't the bottom of the heater core going to be another 3/4" like the top one?
Is the 5/8" hose 'bad' that's on there now?
Autozone has more 45 degree heater hose pieces, 3/4" to 5/8", then I'd just need another heater hose connector. But that repair has to wait until the car gets into the shop - there's a wire clamp on it at the heater core, right on the fire wall, and I can't get it off. Can't even get an angle with a Dremel cutting wheel to cut it off. I just want to have all my parts ready when we go in... as soon as their done with the Bronco.
Power steering hose - the one from the bottom of the reservoir to whatever that gizmo is.... I stayed up for 2 hours last night reading my shop manual and never got an answer. Anyway that hose has a tower clamp under the reservoir and what ever that thing its connected to has a worm clamp that's eaten well into the swollen hose. I at least figured out that 3/8" hose, got that and some clamps. (Did I mention the worm clamp at the bottom was put on from underneath and now I'll be screwing upside down from the top to get it off - insert your jokes here, I deserve them.
I don't have the ability here to bleed the system like the manual says to get an air bubble out, so - how I can change this hose and avoid air in the system and of course debris. How do you cap off either end?
\m/
Laurie?
I think these cars used both sizes. I'll have to check later.
Take off both ends from the heater core and look at the fittings. If they are both the same size then the car used all 3/4, however is one fitting is smaller, then the smaller one is 5/8.
I think your car has a small power steering line cooler. My 1968 has one; it sits behind the radiator and yes they develop leaks.
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 18, 2018, 12:48:35 AM
I don't have the ability here to bleed the system like the manual says to get an air bubble out, so - how I can change this hose and avoid air in the system and of course debris. How do you cap off either end?
Bleed the cooling system or the power steering system? What air bubble are you asking about, and how do you know air is trapped in wherever you think it is? Please be more specific.....
Bobby
Quote from: Bobby B on March 18, 2018, 01:18:17 AM
Bleed the cooling system or the power steering system? What air bubble are you asking about, and how do you know air is trapped in wherever you think it is? Please be more specific.....
Bobby
Power steering
Laurie
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on March 18, 2018, 01:06:51 AM
I think these cars used both sizes. I'll have to check later.
Take off both ends from the heater core and look at the fittings. If they are both the same size then the car used all 3/4, however is one fitting is smaller, then the smaller one is 5/8.
I think your car has a small power steering line cooler. My 1968 has one; it sits behind the radiator and yes they develop leaks.
Mike I already did the top one, it was 3/4".
I can't get the bottom one off until we're in the shop.
I just want to have all my parts 'ready' so I can be doing this while
someone is working on the engine doing something else.
\m/
Laurie
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 18, 2018, 01:33:00 AM
Power steering
You usually bleed the power steering system by turning slowly lock to lock a few times. You'll be able to hear the difference in sound when the air is out. That will usually get any trapped air out. You might have to let it sit overnight and bleed it over. Some types of systems bleed easier than others. Good idea if you changed anything in the system or if your pump let go, to install a PS filter in your return line. It slips inside your return hose. They cost a few dollars and need to be used even after a flush, before you install any new components. Most pump manufacturers won't warranty a rebuilt pump unless you flush AND use an in-line filter. Cheap insurance.....
Bobby
Quote from: Bobby B on March 18, 2018, 01:48:32 AM
You usually bleed the power steering system by turning slowly lock to lock a few times. You'll be able to hear the difference in sound when the air is out. That will usually get any trapped air out. You might have to let it sit overnight and bleed it over. Some types of systems bleed easier than others. Good idea if you changed anything in the system or if your pump let go, to install a PS filter in your return line. It slips inside your return hose. They cost a few dollars and need to be used even after a flush, before you install any new components. Most pump manufacturers won't warranty a rebuilt pump unless you flush AND use an in-line filter. Cheap insurance.....
Bobby
Any ideas on the best way for me to change that hose?
Laurie?
Unless you are from Australia down under - where every thing is upside down - I didn't see a joke.
However, the heater core and heater valve should be 3/4" and 5/8" for 59.
But if for some reason the core and heater valve were changed - to the 60's design - then they would both be
3/4". And yes, if the valve were changed - and not the core - the pipes would both be 3/4".
As for air in the heating system, it would be best the heat up the engine and cycle the heater valve wide open for a bit and back, the cycle once again, with time between - don't cycle the heater valve - the water flow is highly restricted.
Still not sure what you are talking about the clams at the fire wall, can't be cut - and wire etc.
Is the clamp a Corbin clamp - heavy wire - not worm - not double thin wire, like around the air ducts in the car.
Take a pic or two.
Have fun,
Steve B.
Lots of pictures....
First pics are of the bottom hose at the heater core. Prolly original hose, wire twist clamp. That hose, to where ever it goes, obviously failed at some point. And the turnip mechanic simply cut the original hose, put in a piece of pipe (?) to connect to the new 5/8th hose which may or may not be the correct size, not sure an 1/8th makes that big of a difference. The hose above is my repair; a 3/4" 45 degree heater hose to a 3/4" adapter (so I could hang that sharp left up to the new hose I ran to the top of the radiator. The bottom hose of the heater core I want to replace too because its old, I just can't get it off with that twist clamp so close to the firewall. Already have the new parts, 3/4 to 5/8 45 degree heater hose with a lot of material on the 5/8 side, and a 5/8 to 5/8 adapter to join up to the 5/8 hose. Yes I'll move the hoses so the top one is on top, etc.
Next group of pics is from the power steering reservoir. I think they're supposed to be fitted line but the clamps seem to be working. Top clamp under the reservoir is a tower clamp. The bottom of the hose that goes to the thingy is a worm clamp attached from the bottom of course. That hose looks funky and its outta here. I already have new 3/8 hose for this and clamps. My question is how do I prevent losing ps fluid during this procedure, how do I 'plug' the resevoir and the thingy the hose goes to, mostly to prevent debris from entering the system and needing to bleed the system. Or can I simply keep adding Dexron 6, turning the wheel in gear left to right, checking the fluid, adding as necessary like when I changed that fluid last month? Is that a faux 'bleed'?
As always, comments and advice are greatly appreciated.
\m/
Laurie (who couldn't get 3 spark plug wires on correctly)
I think you will find that these heater lines have been rerouted over the years. It is hard to tell from the pictures but I would not just assume the way yours are currently routed is correct..... but it works. The supply hose is a real pain to get on the block so you will lose a little knuckle skin in the process---but a job really isn't complete unless you have lost at least a little blood. The hose seems to weld itself to the heater core outlets over time. I didn't want to risk hurting it by twisting or pulling so I just sliced it on the nipple and peeled it back.
As far as the power steering goes I did the same thing as you. Didn't lose too much fluid and I just bled it without jacking the car-remember that is just the return line so a bubble there will work it's way out. However please check your pressure line. I ended up blowing mine which made quite a mess as you can imagine. If you are going to do 1 line and bleed the system, you mite as well do both.
Later the heater line came off the back of the head and it was the water control valve that did the 90* turn to point it to the core. Not sure if that was how they did it in 70 or not, someone else will have to confirm or deny that. Or is it that way and I just could not tell in the photos?
Quote from: Jeff Rose CLC #28373 on March 19, 2018, 09:31:50 AM
I think you will find that these heater lines have been rerouted over the years. It is hard to tell from the pictures but I would not just assume the way yours are currently routed is correct..... but it works. The supply hose is a real pain to get on the block so you will lose a little knuckle skin in the process---but a job really isn't complete unless you have lost at least a little blood. The hose seems to weld itself to the heater core outlets over time. I didn't want to risk hurting it by twisting or pulling so I just sliced it on the nipple and peeled it back.
As far as the power steering goes I did the same thing as you. Didn't lose too much fluid and I just bled it without jacking the car-remember that is just the return line so a bubble there will work it's way out. However please check your pressure line. I ended up blowing mine which made quite a mess as you can imagine. If you are going to do 1 line and bleed the system, you mite as well do both.
Hi Jeff,
when I did the top one my friend Charlie (who owns 33 classic cars) told me to cut the hose off carefully as its probably welded to the heater core by now and its a copper connection. Trying to pull/twist it off would damage the heater core, he was right! I used a box cutter to make several slices in the hose at the connection and peeled it off carefully. I'll use the same procedure with the bottom one. The hose that goes to the block is 'new', its where you see them use a piece of pipe to connect to the old line to the core. I'll use an adapter to join my new piece of hose with the existing one. Now I just need a piece of heater hose that's 45 degrees and 3/4" on the short side and 5/8" on the other longer side. I'll reposition the hoses so the top is on top, etc.
The return line on the power steering looks recent, I think I'll leave that alone for now. Thanks for the 411 on the power steering bleed - assuming I'll just add fluid, turn the wheels, check the fluid, add fluid, wash, rinse, repeat until full. Thank you!
\m/
Laurie
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 19, 2018, 12:19:41 PM
Now I just need a piece of heater hose that's 45 degrees and 3/4" on the short side and 5/8" on the other longer side.
That hose was hard to find locally. I actually just went to my local auto parts store and looked at what they had and got a preformed heater hose for something like a Plymouth Acclaim. It was premoulded at the angle I needed and went from 1 size to another. It was quite long so I just trimmed it and used the portion with the bend and size change that I needed. I don't know if the Acclaim was the exact car but you know what I mean. Just try there and you should get what you need.
Jeff
Quote from: Jeff Rose CLC #28373 on March 19, 2018, 12:40:39 PM
That hose was hard to find locally. I actually just went to my local auto parts store and looked at what they had and got a preformed heater hose for something like a Plymouth Acclaim. It was premoulded at the angle I needed and went from 1 size to another. It was quite long so I just trimmed it and used the portion with the bend and size change that I needed. I don't know if the Acclaim was the exact car but you know what I mean. Just try there and you should get what you need.
Jeff
Yep, that's where I got the last one, Autozone. I have a long 3/4-3/4 45 degree hose here now I'm bringing back for the same in a 3/4 to 5/8, and a 5/8 adapter.
\m/
Laurie
Hello Laurie,
Is this the hose clamp you are having trouble getting off (see picture). If so this tool works great and is made for this. The tips swivel so you can get them on at different angles there not that expensive and work much better than pliers.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar
Quote from: Bob Kielar on March 19, 2018, 02:26:04 PM
Hello Laurie,
Is this the hose clamp you are having trouble getting off (see picture). If so this tool works great and is made for this. The tips swivel so you can get them on at different angles there not that expensive and work much better than pliers.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar
Hi Bob,
that's the one! and the LAST one! I was at Hyannis Vintage today, showed them a pic. They'll take it off and let me work on the heater hose while 'dad' is working on the thermostat.
\m/
Laurie!
Your bottom two photo's?......yup, that's the low pressure return line from the steering box to the pump. Looks like it's never been changed. I say that because the tower clamp next to the pump is the factory set-up. Most time it got replaced with a screw drive clamp when the hose was replaced. Now, how do you replace the hose without leaking power steering fluid all over? You need three or four hands! You can get little rubber hose nipples at one of the Big Box stores or your NAPA shop. They look like vacuum plugs, only much larger. Disconnect one end of your old hose at a time. When you pull the old hose over the pipe, with your other hand, quickly slide on one of your newly purchased rubber nipples. Ya gotta move quick, and unfortunately, no matter how quick you do move, there's gonna be a bit of leakage. Shop towels are a must! Installation of new hose is reverse of removal.
Quote from: Chas on March 19, 2018, 05:58:00 PM
Your bottom two photo's?......yup, that's the low pressure return line from the steering box to the pump. Looks like it's never been changed. I say that because the tower clamp next to the pump is the factory set-up. Most time it got replaced with a screw drive clamp when the hose was replaced. Now, how do you replace the hose without leaking power steering fluid all over? You need three or four hands! You can get little rubber hose nipples at one of the Big Box stores or your NAPA shop. They look like vacuum plugs, only much larger. Disconnect one end of your old hose at a time. When you pull the old hose over the pipe, with your other hand, quickly slide on one of your newly purchased rubber nipples. Ya gotta move quick, and unfortunately, no matter how quick you do move, there's gonna be a bit of leakage. Shop towels are a must! Installation of new hose is reverse of removal.
Hey Chas,
I'm gonna get all MacGyver with this, LOL! I bought 3' of hose, so I'm going to cut 2 - 1" pieces. Pull off an end of hose, put a plastic sandwich bag over the pipe then press on the small hose piece. Repeat on the other end. Should buy just enough time to cut the new hose to the old hose's length, get the 2 new clamps in position, and install before the D6 eats the sandwich bag. The car is parked on my side lawn, where the Shelter Logic will be built when it goes into the shop. Not really worried about dripping. I'm going to give that power steering pump a good spray with brake cleaner to get the oil off it. Then a nice coat of gloss black paint. I'll do this before I change the hose.
\m/
Laurie
Believe they were more of a semi-gloss when new, if you wanna be more correct. :)
Quote from: 35-709 on March 20, 2018, 02:02:24 PM
Believe they were more of a semi-gloss when new, if you wanna be more correct. :)
SEMI gloss it is! :-*
\m/
Laurie!
OK, accidental day off let me spend the day with The Ark... I had so much fun. So relaxing, just a blast.
Changed the return hose on the power steering. Started off by covering the areas around the pump with towels and giving it a good spray with brake cleaner to clean it for painting. Also gave that tower clamp a good spray of WD40 so it would come off. Realized why the bottom worm clamp was on upside down - because you can crawl under the car and get to it very easily. Took the bottom one off first, put a vise grip on the hose to stop the flood and 'capped' the line with a plastic sandwich bag tight to the end with a rubber band.
Tower clamp loosened right up and slid back, hose was welded to the pump, starting cutting it off with my box cutter, sandwich bag and rubber band at the ready. Hose was cut off and immediately noticed the fluid coming out was jet black. Didn't I just 'change' this fluid? Heck with it, let it all drain out, D6 is cheap. Cleaned the end really well.
Cut the new hose to the exact length of the old hose, put my clamps on with some tension on each end so I wouldn't have to chase them. Put the pump side on first, pretty snug but got it on and to the same spot as the old one. Clamp a 1/4" from the end, and tightened 1 more turn past "that's tight enough".
Crawled under the car and slide the other end on, right to the spot the old was. Tightened the worm clamp the same way as above.
I had already spray painted the pump so I'm being pretty careful with the D6. Used a funnel and way over filled it. Turkey baster to remove excess fluid, capped, start car and start the wheel turning side to side in gear. Boy did she groan a few times. Checked the fluid, it got really foamy, too much fluid, sucked more out. Repeat. Still foamy. Removed more, repeat. Pump quieted down and fluid level stayed at the 'hot' line after about a dozen runs with the car in gear, foot on brake, and turning all the way left and right a dozen times. Fluid stopped being foamy. No leaks! :)
Question: when the car is running and in PARK, the wheels seem to have a greater range of motion left and right than when its in GEAR and I'm turning the wheels. Yes I'm long and agile enough to have a foot on the ground, a foot on the brake, and turn the wheel fully left and right.
Is this normal or do I still have an air bubble in there? If I still have air in the system will more 'exercising' of the steering while in gear eventually get it out?
Before and after pics below. 35-709, all I had was gloss paint, not semi, oh well. It still looks better!
\m/
Laurie
It DOES look better and will be just fine! ;)
Quote from: 35-709 on March 29, 2018, 08:16:44 AM
It DOES look better and will be just fine! ;)
:-*
So the phenomena of the wheels turning 'less' while in gear than in park is nominal?
\m/
Laurie!
PS I'm going to do more spray painting in the engine back of the black. Should I just stay with the gloss
or do the rest in a semi? Continuity et al....
I have not experienced the wheels turning more, or less, while in park than while in gear (but with the car not moving?). Shouldn't make any difference if the car isn't moving.
Any air that might still be in the system should work itself out in a short time.
IMO, if you are going to be painting quite a few other components with the black, go with the semi-gloss. But, if you like the look of the gloss better, stay with it. It really only makes a difference if you are having the car charged judged (sorry about that) at a Grand National and are competing for a top prize. To everyone else the paint will look very nice (they don't know if it should be gloss or semi) and indicate you care about your car and how it looks --- which will be spiffy.
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 20, 2018, 11:11:56 PM
SEMI gloss it is! :-*
\m/
Laurie!
I painted mine engine color - Cadillac Dark Blue. ;)
Quote from: 35-709 on March 29, 2018, 01:17:31 PM
I have not experienced the wheels turning more, or less, while in park than while in gear (but with the car not moving?). Shouldn't make any difference if the car isn't moving.
Any air that might still be in the system should work itself out in a short time.
IMO, if you are going to be painting quite a few other components with the black, go with the semi-gloss. But, if you like the look of the gloss better, stay with it. It really only makes a difference if you are having the car charged judged (sorry about that) at a Grand National and are competing for a top prize. To everyone else the paint will look very nice (they don't know if it should be gloss or semi) and indicate you care about your car and how it looks --- which will be spiffy.
I want to do the area over the front wheels, air cleaner, the cross bars, etc. 'gloss' might be too much with everything else pretty flat. At this point, what's another $10 for more Rustoleum. My plan is to brush off any rust with a steel brush, wipe off, hit with POR15, then SEMI GLOSS black Rustoleum.
\m/
Laurie!
:) Let's see the pics when you're done!
Quote from: 35-709 on March 30, 2018, 09:31:29 AM
:) Let's see the pics when you're done!
;)
You bet!
\m/
Laurie!
Laurie,
The steering wheel should be 3 full rotations lock to lock. Now, while moving, it might appear to not want to go that far, but you should be just able to make 1 & 1/2 wheel turns from straight on in each direction.
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on April 02, 2018, 08:26:27 PM
Laurie,
The steering wheel should be 3 full rotations lock to lock. Now, while moving, it might appear to not want to go that far, but you should be just able to make 1 & 1/2 wheel turns from straight on in each direction.
Thanks Mike! That sounds about right, I'll try it again my next free minute.
\m/
Laurie