1961 Series 62 Convertible Restoration

[dbzsjones]

Am I right in assuming I need more than my fixed 4 blade fan as well?

[Clewisiii]

I dont know how much of a "requirement" it is. But AC cars had a 7 blade fan and a thermal clutch.

Closest new thermal clutch is a Hayden 2710.

There was also a radiator shroud that directed air to the fan.

I have never seen a spacer used in an original AC car set up.

[Clewisiii]

A little more packing material and this will be ready to ship out on Saturday.

[dbzsjones]

Everything arrived in great shape.

I was able to get started mounting accessories.


I didn't think my water pump was an AC version,but it looks like the pulley grooves line up.

[dbzsjones]

New radiator arrived this week.




Bottom pipe is turned up like the original.


Came very well packed.  This is what it looked like after I dumped it out of the box.  Very throughly foamed in place.


So of course I had to get it installed on the core support.  It really surprises me how small it looks.

[dbzsjones]

Learned 1 lesson the hard way today.  When I installed the engine I decided to do it with the exhaust manifolds off thinking it would be easy enough to install them after since there are no fenders in the way.  It ended up being much harder than I expected.  The front 2 bolts need to be in the manifold before you place it, and the back 2 in the circle were a lot of fun to get to working around the steering system.  Coming up from underneath was the trick, but even then clearances were tight and a stubby box end wrench was my best friend.

[dbzsjones]

Anybody have problems with the fit of a chip's caddy dipstick tube?  Trying to decide if it's the tube or the stick.  I'm expecting that grommet to fit inside the tube.  The tube fits in the engine fine so the OD is correct.

[Clewisiii]

I think I remember there being an o ring on the dipstick. But mine fell off long ago.

[dogbergs]

For me it looks like if you would turn the grommet the other way, would fit perfect.
Just a thought. I don't even have a stick for mine so I'm a little jealous of you guys.

Best

[dbzsjones]

While I was waiting for brackets and other parts to arrive I got to spend some time on the electrical.  I started with the ground cables.  The big one from the frame to the starter was in good shape so I left it alone, but I was missing the block to the firewall and the ones on the suspension, and after pricing them, I decided to make them.  I was surprised how hard it was to source a 3/8" flat quick connector for the firewall side.  Lot's a 1/4" out there but not 3/8".  I even tried automotive connector sources I found online with no luck, but I finally turned up something that would work on amazon.  I think they turned out OK.


After that I turned my attention to the suspension strap.
Here's my version next to the original.  One of the sides had the small connector broken off and I decided the old cable was too dirty to ever get a good solder joint so I remade both.  got a little heavy handed with the solder, but it flowed well and the connection is solid.  I cleaned up the globs before I installed them.

[dbzsjones]

With the easy electrical challenge it was time to move onto the hard stuff.  My son had noticed some of the wires in the door jamb were broken.  While I would love to use this as a reason to buy a new harness, I don't have the budget or time right now so I repaired them instead.  The previous restorer had started the repair with the black wire and crimp connectors.

I cut that out and repaired all 3 with red wire and solder connections.

I hope they hadn't been cut for a reason, but I doubt it.  I'm not removing anything so I should need all the wiring.

[dbzsjones]

After the door jamb it was firewall time.  The car had half the firewall connector on it, and a full harness in the parts bin. 

I took the harness with the complete connector and removed all the wires from the left side and then transferred each wire from the broken connector to the complete connector.  I tried to avoid damaging the blade connectors in the harness, but ended up damaging 2 and soldered the wires on those.  I'm a little concerned that the connector looked like they probably sealed the blade connectors in place after they were inserted, or it could just be years of crud built up.  If anybody has some advice on that and how to reproduce it if required, I'll all ears.

I also noticed 3 wires appear to be cut in the harness and shrink wrapped at the ends.  I haven't broken out the wiring diagram yet to figure it out but can anyone tell me if this is normal, or do I have another repair job in my future?


If this turns out to be a repair getting the right position on the firewall connector is my big concern.  I assume the colors will help me determine the accessory end without too much ambiguity.

[Clewisiii]

The door harnesses are not sold by anyone. So you would have to rebuild yourself anyway.


I am not aware of any sealant in that block. You are on the engine side correct.

[Clewisiii]

Here is my underhood plug. I would like to try to rebuild this myself. But there was not enough of it left. So I will need to buy one eventually.



Notice there are two terminals not populated. But the hole does not go all the way through.

I do not know if the holes were punched when inserting the terminals. But they seem to be very tight fits.

[Clewisiii]

I think 2009 corvette door conduits are the closest thing to use to cover those wires.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Those male terminals are very easy to remove and replace.   As are the female terminals.

As for the door loom, I would surmise that the reason the loom was cut was simply because the previous owner was too lazy when removing the door, and used the joiners as a cheap and nasty way to rejoin the wires.

Bruce.

[dbzsjones]

The door harnesses are not sold by anyone. So you would have to rebuild yourself anyway.


I am not aware of any sealant in that block. You are on the engine side correct.

yes on the engine side

[dbzsjones]

I'd love to hear the secret that makes them easy to remove.  I spent quite a while with a pair of needle nose pliers, and a pick.  Trying to clean out any crud in the slot, and then squeezing and rocking the blade until it finally pressed through.  The door has never been off and only the 3 heavy red wires were broken.  Maybe it was age, or a bad idea stopped before it got worse.