1968 DeVille Convertible - driver restoration

[Bob Steur]

Exhaust manifold bolts are thoroughly rusted and all of them broke off. I managed to drill and tap about half of them. This was the my least favorite part so far. For the ones that I couldn't tap properly I will add a gasket and see if that muffles the noise well enough. I didn't attempt to remove the other manifold. Sitting on the fence as to whether to just replace the heads and be done with it. Will do a leak down test soon.

I built lots of model cars and planes as a kid and sometimes I feel like this is just a big model kit, like when I'm painting these individual parts. They were blasted by my friends at Proven Force, then primered with hi heat paint. The engine block was not primered. Cast iron with its rough texture takes paint well without primer. Paint used was Bill Hirsch Cadillac Blue.

I had a problem where the Rustoleum primer I used mixed with the Hirsch top coat, even after a week's drying. I called and was surprised to be connecteed with Bill Hirsch himself. He was very friendly and helpful. He is a Cadillac (and Packard) enthusiast himself, owning a 49, a 69 convertible, a 73 Eldorado and a 75 de Ville.

He said that there is some ingredient in Rustoleum, think it was fish oil? that reacts. His advice was to strip everything and start over, using their brand of grey primer(Seymour Spruce), and to spray, not brush, the steel parts. The first coat of primer should be very light, then a second coat two minutes later. You can color coat the next day. While I was on the phone I also ordered the correct gold paint(actually Ford Gold) for the air cleaner lid, and cast iron grey for the manifolds.

[Bob Steur]

Back to the timing set...
The next hurdle was the distributor. It was so stuck that lifting it with the cherry picker only lifted the whole engine. I removed the compressor and PS pump for better access and hit the gap with a chisel. This only raised the distro about an eight of an inch. After checking the price and availability of new distributors, I decided it had to come out even if I had to smash it to bits! Pounding on it from both top and bottom only resulted in damaging it beyond repair. All this time I was spraying PB blaster where I thought it might do some good.. Finally I read a tip that someone had posted on this board: remove the oil pump and hit it from the bottom with a drift. I didn't have the right size drift but a deep socket and 1/2" extension fit. I had to rotate the engine upside down and hit it with the big sledge to apply enough force, but she finally popped out. Tool police, you know where I live.

The rest of it was duck soup. The crank gear came out with gentle prying and a 3 jaw puller. The cam gear is held by two bolts.

While this was going on my oldest son, 7, said, "Dad, I think I'm old enough to start helping you with the fixing the car." 

[Bob Steur]

While waiting for the paint, the new distributor, and other stuff to arrive, I thought I'd do a quick leak down test. Had to get a special 14mm "long reach" fitting as the one supplied with the OTC brand tester would not fit the spark plug socket. All seemed fine except for a leaking exhaust valve on the number one (passenger side front) cylinder... at this point I'm going to say "good enough" (for now) and not tear the engine apart. I want to be driving this thing! The full frame off restoration will have to wait.

Installed new freeze plugs... it had some kind of weird expanding type from before that was probably easier to install with engine still in car. I removed these and put in brass ones. Never did this before but it was easy. Put red loctite on them for insurance. Car must have had some cooling issues because there was no thermostat, the water jackets were full of rust - which I mostly pulled out with a magnet, the heater core leaked, and there was one of these silly flush taps in line with the heater hose. Also it was missing the fan shroud. I'll put everything together the right way including the factory recommended 195 degree thermostat... and see what happens!

[Bob Steur]

Trying to determine if my carburetor is original . The stamp on the left side by the secondaries reads "7029232" with smaller numbers below that reading "1926."

From information on cliffshighperformance.com:

702 is Federal, 65-69
9 indicates 1969
2 indicates Federal emissions
3 indicates division is Cadillac, at least that's right
2 indicates transmission, even numbers are usually automatic

So everything sounds right except that it's a 1969 model. Probably a safe bet that it's not original - dang!

The transmission is a replacement as well. At least the engine block is original. Anyone know of any other numbers on the car that can be verified?

[Bob Steur]

Another good weekend. Replaced the fuel pump and painted about half the remaining engine parts - ran out of paint! Found an original fuel filter on eBay.

If necessity is the mother of invention, then Yogi Bear is the father. Anyway, check out my homemade tool for installing the crank gear. Also check out the difference between old and new cam gear! Last shot is of everything together before reinstalling timing cover.

[Bob Steur]

Installed the oil pump, timing cover with new front seal, balancer and pulley. Installed the oil pan, rocker covers, exhaust manifolds (painted cast iron grey) and  new starter. Also painted and installed the brackets for the air pump, alternator, and power steering.

Can't buy a new power steering cooler and the one on it looks bad (bent fins, rusty) - maybe the local radiator shop can restore it?

Missing the brace for the starter, think one from a Chevy will fit, looking...

Authenticity manual says there was no ground strap by the starter, but mine has one. You can never have enough grounds on the engine. When I do the frame off restoration many years from now maybe I will remove it!

I'm always pleasantly surprised how easy it is to get mechanical parts for my '68, and how reasonably priced they are. Soon it will be time to put the engine back in the car!

[Bob Steur]

Had a problem where the oil pump wouldn't turn. I installed a new oil pump and gasket after cleaning the mating surface again. Before I installed it I dipped the gears in oil. I was able to turn the pump by hand. I filled the oil filter and put a few more quarts of oil in the engine. I was able to bring the pressure up to 60 psi by turning the distributor shaft with my impact wrench.

Looking back I think I might have nicked the oil pump mating area on the block when I pounded on the extension to get the distributor out! But, it never hurts anything to replace the oil pump, and the old one did have a few score marks inside.

[Bob Steur]

Installed engine - much easier without heater box or water pump! Fired it up just for a minute. Will need timing adjustment, some backfiring but seems okay otherwise. Next weekend I will install the transmission and whatever else I find time for.

[Bob Steur]

This weekend, I installed the trans and driveshaft. Trans was rebuilt by Proven Force of Brooklyn Park, MN. Good guys to deal with.

Again, pretty easy if you have a transmission jack and tall jackstands. My four year old watched the whole thing. He's going to be a car guy, I can tell!

Radiator and power steering cooler were cleaned out and painted by Tom's Radiator in Anoka, MN. If you're in the area I recommend him highly as well.

Engine accessories are next.

Exhaust system ordered from Classic Exhaust, ETA is 2-3 weeks so Oct 14th or so. Hoping the weather stays nice!

[Aaron Hudacky]

Bob,

Your progress is impressive. I hope you post a review of your exhaust when you get it. I'm debating getting an exhaust from the same company.

[Bob Steur]

Hi Aaron, thanks for your comment. I will write about the exhaust when I get it. Progress isn't as fast as I'd like but it feels good to finally be putting it all together.

Yesterday I bolted in the alternator, and the power steering pump - lockwashers on all the PS bolts? Is this correct? Maybe somebody in the past added them.

Because of the belt configuration, neither the water pump nor the alternator will run unless the Air Injection Reactor (AIR) pump belt is also in place.  Clever way to prevent you from ever disconnecting the AIR! Since my AIR pump is seized, and I want to keep the car totally stock I ordered a new pump from RockAuto right away. If I weren't interested in being correct I'd reposition the alternator or get a deeper water pump pulley and use a longer belt.

Next: Putting the heater box back in. It is still convertible weather today in Minnesota but that could change soon.

[Bob Steur]

AIR pump is in. Greenies, rejoice!

All belts and accessories hooked up: A/C compressor, power steering, AIR pump, water pump, alternator. The replacement alternator has a "bump" on it where the old one had none, making it hard to get the belt on without removing the clip for the AIR tube. When the belt stretches out I'll be able to add the clip and bolt back in, behind the alternator. Also installed the heater hose over the alternator, along with the A/C hose. This has to be the most crowded part of the engine room.

Installed heater box, pretty easy. Connected radiator hoses, heater hoses. 5/8 hose from block to valve requires a molded hose with 90 degree bend. My 3/4 hose appears to be a molded hose as well. Left it original since parts store did not have any 3/4 hose. Should replace later.

Filled cooling system. Noticed a leak from one expansion plug, fortunately it was the rear drivers side, not hard to reach if you turn the steering all the way right. Drain the coolant again with the neighborhood kids and dogs watching. Put in a steel plug instead of brass, that was all I could find on a Sunday morning! Re filled coolant and ran the engine, again without exhaust system - it sounds like four Harleys at once but no one has complained yet. Problemo solved.

Next: exhaust system, brakes, fan shroud, drag link, shocks, tires. Temp gauge inop, as are power windows. It never ends!

[Bob Steur]

I had a sticking wheel cylinder? so I replaced one brake hose and wheel cylinder. Shoes and drums look fairly new. The exhaust system arrived today (10/24/11.) More to come including photos.

[Duane J Warren]

Hey Bob, from your blog I can see why we haven't seen much of you since early summer. Maybe you can get the family out of the house this weekend and join us for the FALL BRUNCH at GULDEN'S. Sounds like you all can use a day off!

Duane

[Bob Steur]

Hey Duane, I didn't see your post until now.

The exhaust system is in. This was easy to do and didn't take that long. The parts were all of good quality and look like the original, at least what I had left of it (see photos.) The parts that are not included are the clamps - available from any auto parts store - and the hangers, which are a little trickier.

I used four 2 1/2" clamps and one 2 1/4" clamp for the resonator hanger.

There are three hangers and they are unique to Cadillac. One was fabricated, one was scored NOS on eBay, and the middle one I just sort of cobbled together.

Once the parts were all bolted together finger tight, I checked the alignment and clearance, then tightened.

Then drove the old beast out of the garage into cold storage. Something is still funky with the brakes, maybe they need adjustment?

[Bob Steur]

Here are a couple of pictures of the installed exhaust. I was so happy to be finished that I forgot to take pictures while it was up on stands, so these will have to do for now. I'm sure I'll be under the car again next spring!

[Bob Steur]

I found this model kit that I can build over the winter with my boys.

[Carl Glass]

Oh man, I'd love to find a model kit for my '68 Eldo.

[akims9]

Hey bob , I have 68 coupe soft top resto. Do you have vacuum, and wiring diagrams pics. I'm having problems with vacuum on trans. I do not know where it connects to. I will send pics.

[Glen]

Oh man, I'd love to find a model kit for my '68 Eldo.

I don’t know if there were any 68 Eldo model kits, if there were they are very rare.  But sometimes on Ebay you can find a promo.  These were made by JoHan IIRC and were available at the dealer.  Usually in the same colors as the real cars.  The promos came in two types, with or without the friction motor. 

These promos can be expensive and over the years the plastic can warp so they are distorted.  I have two, one 68 and one 69.  The 67 and 70 are more available in the kit form.