Hydroelectric Full Restoration

[Joe V]

In the middle of a full restoration of the hydroelectric system in my 49 convertible.  I knew it would be both a challenge and a costly experience, but I am enjoying the work.  No local chapter or experts in my area so I'm doing this based on forum info from postings, all the material I can get my hands on, and good old elbow grease and trial and error. 

I thought I would post in case it helps others that will attempt this work themselves and include any tips learned or challenges encountered.  Of course I'm always interested in tips and opinions from forum members. A number of posts follow to catch up to where I am at in the process.

The goal is full replacement from pump to cylinders along with wiring harnesses for all doors, top, and trunk which all follow the same path. Full system was not installed or working when started and it is the last major system to be restored in the car.  I hope!

First step was getting all the plumbing out. It is a rats nest of old hydraulic tubes.

[Joe V]

Getting these lines out were the most challenging. They turn in between the frame and body and then turn towards the back and go into the body at the back of the front seat.

It is obvious that they were attached to the body before is was mated to the chassis. Underneath were two hold down brackets that I will not be able to reinstall until the body goes on to a rotisserie. That is scheduled to occur in 2025.

I had to slightly pry the floor up without deforming too much to get them out of the channel they follow between the frame and body.

[Joe V]

Wiring and rear hydraulic lines removed. When possible, I kept the lines in the original shape to use as patterns.  The lines between the frame and body were mangled after removal.

[Joe V]

In the front, the lines enter just under the pump connection and then go left and right on the inside of the firewall just under the firewall insulation pad.

The firewall pad was very brittle and fell a part the minute I bent it as expected. 

[Joe V]

I was hoping to reuse some lines but an experienced forum member said to look for rust and avoid using any rusty tubes. They were all rusty on the bottom where they laid on the body.

[Joe V]

So with the decision to replace all lines, I had to learn to make double flares.

First decision was which line types to pick. I first bought steel lines and found them a real challenge to bend and flare. I settled on nickel/copper lines for all runs that you can't see and steel lines for what you can see as original.

I went thru three flaring tools until I got one that worked. My first successful flare here. At least what I think is successful. No telling until fluid starts pumping.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Joe,

Congratulations on doing it yourself.

You will learn to do double flares with ease, and after you do your first one without putting the flare nut on first, you will become an expert.

I have a number of flaring tools, and the best advice I can give you is to squirt a tiny bit of lubricant onto the area, AFTER you have tightened the tube in the clamp.

It is no wonder that it didn't take long for electricity to overtake the hydraulic operation.

Keep the pictures coming.

Bruce.

PS.   As you will have found out by now, buy the best hand bender that you can.

[Joe V]

For replacement I stared with the most challenging in the rear. Since the original ones were mangled I used a metal coat hanger to get a rough line shape and then made the three replacements.

I was worried the end that goes into the interior would not go in with the flare and fitting on it requiring me to make the flare in the car. But I was able to jockey them in because I had opened up the space between body and frame.

Next up is some scraping and painting inside and under side of the floor.  The lines are just placed in there for fitting and manufactured mid project excitement.

[Joe V]

Thanks Bruce.  That's a great tip. I was lubricating before putting it all in the clamp, but a second shot once it is all together sounds like just what it needs.  Maybe with that method I will be more successful flaring the steel lines.

At this point I would have to agree that motors and wires would be nice. 

[Joe V]

This pretty much gets things up to date. Rear inside floor scrapped and painted and first harness to trunk installed. 

Hey, I have to have rear lights to be able to keep driving.  It's 80 in N Florida and I don't need windows. 

[savemy67]

Hello Joe,

I appreciate your effort and willingness to post same on this forum.  It is hard to believe, but that system was the cat's pajamas in 1949.  In one of your photos I noticed a Drill Master angle grinder.  How is that tool performing?  Did you get your flaring tools from the same place as the grinder?  Keep up the good work.  (Is the rotisserie really scheduled for 10 years hence, or were you being facetious?)

Christopher Winter

[Joe V]

Hey Christopher,

I am looking forward to hearing the windows work, particularly how quiet they are when they go down. 

Grinder is the inexpensive one from HF and the flaring tool that is working for me was one of the borrow tools from Pep Boys which you pay for and return or keep. The flaring tool from HF was not a of a quality needed when I looked at it.  My angle grinder works just fine for what I need it to do which is basically rough grinding and cutting. I bought it thinking i would go through a few while parting out a 49 Series 60 but it is still running.

I do actually think it will be 10 years before I will be able to do a rotisserie restore.  It's an unbelievably solid car considering it lived in Buffalo NY it's whole life until last year.  But I really do dream of restoring to what it was when it rolled off the showroom floor. Two college educations down and two to go. Then maybe I'll have the time ($) to do so.

[Joe V]

Hydraulic plumbing aside, I was worried that the top control valve would not be rebuildable. $150 minimum for reconditioning vs $10 for the parts made rebuilding my first option.  The valve was packed with old brake fluid which turns into a greasy dust list like substance and the most time was spent getting it all cleaned out.  There are not many serviceable parts since the main components are Bakelite.  The rebuild kit is primarily the main gaskets.

There is a spring steel washer that keeps the Bakelite valve control component under pressure so the fluid to the top can be directed to the bottom of the cylinder to raise, or top of the cylinder to lower.  It would have been nice to replace but was it not included in the kit. The one in my valve still seemed ok with surface rust. The valve will definitely leak if the spring is not exerting enough pressure.  Under light air pressure the valve seems to work but this is another component that will tell the story once fluid is passed under pressure.

Anyone know of a source for replacement control valve parts?

Here's the valve before and after restoration.

[Joe V]

Switches all needed to be rebuilt also.  When I took the drivers 4 way apart, all the parts reminded me of the British Leyland switches I use to try and restore as a kid on my MGB. You'd take those apart and springs and ball bearings would fly everywhere. The MGB was from the 70's so no excuse for the complexity. The cadillac switch is easier to restore with no ball bearings but definitely quite the number of parts.

Separating the switch body from the bezel is the key and time needs to be taken to remove the tiny clips.  In mine, the plastic rod that holds it all together was broken. Great article at
www.1949cadillac.com/category/hydro-lectrics/ which says I can use weed whacker line as a substitute.

All parts cleaned and ready for reassembly. 

[59-in-pieces]

I noticed in a couple of pics that the ends of the lines with their fittings ended at about the same place - could have been the way the pics were shot.

I "learned" that if you have the option with lines that run along side of each other, that it is easier to stagger the end lengths with their fittings - one ends and the next ends an inch or 2 further and the next line ends further than that.
For me, it made putting the end to end brass fittings together easier, and then tightening them when you can get tubing wrenches in a tight area, without fighting with the adjacent tubing and its fittings.

I hope that made sense - have fun,
Steve B.

[Joe V]

Thanks, that makes sense and will save me some time as I would have learned the lesson The hard way when I started to reassemble. I will adjust before hand as recommended. The originals had a small degree of stagger as I look back at the pictures. I think I got too excited when I started to make good flares.

[59-in-pieces]

Joe,
Gr8 effort on your part to DIY.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[Joe V]

Found picture of the control valve components so I thought I would include.

First picture shows all the main components in the hydraulic control section. You can see the spring steel washer I mentioned above.

Second picture shows the valve body, Bakelite valve, and spring washer. The spring presses the face of the valve on the body and when it turns, the control valve line passage in the Bakelite valve allows fluid to flow through either one of the sets of two holes in the body.  Up or down. This picture shows a little pitting on the control valve body due to corrosion and this may be an issue when the valve is used. The Bakelite valve and the face of the body should obviously be as flat as possible. If I have an issue I may need to mill the valve body if that is possible. Any opinions on this?

Third picture shows the valve and spring steel washer ready to be sandwiched by the Bakelite outer body. You can see how the valve arm and flange fits into the spring washer so that it turns when operated.

[Joe V]

Following -first  picture shows the body assembled and ready for attachment of the Bakelite switch which spins the valve arm in either direction to direct the fluid and also make contact with the terminal to activate the plump.  The flange on the Bakelite valve body fits into the slot on the copper retainer and the spring inside keeps It center while allowing it to move the correct and limited amount in either direction for up and down.

And finally the valve reinstalled and loosely plumbed.

[Joe V]

Plumbing continues.  Top cylinders are in with new lines in place.  Next are the quarter windows and cylinders which I have to remember how to install.  It has been many, many years since they came out and I don't have pictures.  I can see how the window pivots and it looks like the cylinder mechanism installs horizontally.  If anyone has pictures/diagrams please post.  This is like reconstructing a dinosaur from the recovered bones.  Never really sure if you have all the little bones. 

Also, there was a rubber-like material between the hydraulic lines and the floor to eliminate metal-to-metal contact and vibration.  I can think of a number of non-original materials to use in place of it, but is there a source for original material?  What have you used?