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Restoring a 1956 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe in Germany

Started by harascho, January 14, 2016, 03:22:00 AM

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Lexi

Harald that is good news. So there is plenty of opportunity to break in the engine and perhaps increase your vacuum gauge reading. The shop advised me to drive my car (with rebuilt engine) "like I stole it", but also to alter my driving habits. So sometimes I would drive it hard and fast and other days like I was driving to Church. So in retrospect the speedometer was all over the map so to speak. Other days I took to the highway and opened her up, (but not on a long prolonged drive). Another day a calm "slow poke" drive to the coffee shop. I was also told to avoid periods of idle in the driveway during the break in period. So don't sacrifice what opportunity you have to increase your vacuum readings during engine break in, with a lot of idling while you work on your Trico washer issues right now. I also changed the oil a lot with a proper zinc loaded product. Assuming your break in oil is out, I did my first change at 100 miles. Next at around 150 or 200, and so on. You are fortunate your engine runs quiet. 56 Caddies have a tendency to run a little noisy (valve train). A common complaint even when they were new. Clay/Lexi

J. Gomez

Harald,

I’m glad that Clay chime in to jog my memory,  8)  I do recall there was a mid-year change for the camshaft which result on a lower vacuum reading that the previous one (see show_pdf(3) and the MPL)

Glad Clay is around to wake up my sleepy memory cells.   :D

I’ll try to forward the pictures I have later, not sure if those will help.

PS Also there should not be any fluid on the top part of the canister (large one) that is only vacuum, the larger seal provides the seal for the vacuum while the smaller one seals the fluids from going up while forcing it out.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

harascho

Lucky sunday...

Is there a way to convince the wipers to end their task in a park position?
Anyway, wipers AND Trico washer pump are working, even the coordinator works. I found my problem, it was for the two rivets, which are stainless steel screws in my case, that extrude through the upper half of the pump housing through the lid and the switch itsself. I din't care to seal the housing part and that caused a VAC leak.

thx for all the input one happy Caddy guy more..;-)

I will try to post two videos of the wipers in action

cheers
Harald

Lexi

Harald my policy is to default to Jose as he is one of the "Cadillac Gods" as I refer to him, :)  I am just one of many who toils in the Cadillac trenches-hoping to achieve the lofty height that Jose and others on this Forum have risen to, LOL. Would like to chime in on your Trico issue, but I have not yet worked on mine (wipers work but washer pump shot). :(  That nightmare still awaits me. Yes Jose, a Cadillac disgrace as you said for GM not going electric that year for Caddy. Jose hope all is well with you and your family in these difficult times. Clay/Lexi

harascho

Very good news.....

I had a date with the technical inspector ( German TUEV) yesterday... all was fine and after my short vacation in Austria there will be one more classic Cadillac on the road in Germany.
The drive was fine expect some wind noises coming from not properly adjusted doors. Especially the A-posts cause the noise... I will sort out that once I'm home.
The drive itsself was really great, tranny shifting smooth and a steady 30PSI oil pressure. In my book 30PSI is very low but I was told that's what you get with that style of bypass oil filter system. I even noticed a slight increase in oil pressure after the 100mls run.

cheers
Harald

James Landi

Harald, COngratulatons.  I owned two air conditioned sedan de villes back in the 70's.  My daily drivers... I was always impressed at how well these cars ran on the highway.  And, I know this sounds odd, but following extended highway drives, the engines ran BETTER... and the tail exhaust diffuser deposits changed color to a light brown, as if, with a long run, the engine was "cleaner" and more efficient.  The door seals are important, because, as you know, the engine's crank case expels noxious hydrocarbons under the car, and at idle, that smelly stuff can get into the cabin.   As my '56 engines began to wear out, I vented the crankcase through the carburetor intake.     Happy day, and keep those pictures and your narrative coming our way.  James

harascho

I got a vent window against A-pillar ( windshield frame) weatherstripping question... see chucks original thread.


http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=135461.0


cheers
Harald

novetti

Great Achievement to get the car across the inspection and passed. Well done.

I noticed the tires looks like they are radials. Is that a mandatory requirement from TUV ? Do they allow Bias Ply Tires ?

Cheers

54' Iris Blue (Preservation)
54' Cabot Gray (Restoration)
58' Lincoln Continental Convertible (Restoration)
58' Ford Skyliner (Preservation)

winger888

Congratulations Harald. :)
You obviously did a great job passing that TÜV at the first inspection.
76 Eldorado Bicentennial
79 Lincoln Town Car Collectors Series

harascho

Concerning the tires, mine are radials. I am not sure if there are restrictions on classic cars when somebody wants to stick with bias ply tires. That said, I would not choose that path because bias ply tires, maybe some whitewalls, cost way more than safer radials.
Back to some wind noise issues..
When driving I experienced a terrible wind noise coming from the A-Pillar to the door sealing area. There’s only one seal glued to the vent window frame. I am 100% sure that when I started my work on the Caddy there were remains of a seal on the windshield frame.  I tried to find some clear pics of that area but up to now to no avail. I am not even 100% sure what the original position of the door seal on the vent window frame is, was it close to the outer edge? Could anyone of you take a few pics of that area with closed and open front door? That would help me a lot. After countless hours of door adjustment I have to say that I am not satisfied with the gap between vent window and windshield frame. The edges are not parallel, its mor like a V, the upper parts drifting slightly apart...? It also seems that I am unable to get a smooth transition from windshield trim to vent window frame. In the upper area the vent window frame is sticking a little bit more out than the windshield trim.... also not good , that will cause wind noises.

Thanks alot
cheers Harald

Roger Zimmermann

Strange that nobody can do a picture from the seal...
I'm attachng one from my ex-Sedan de Ville. Your coupe has the same configuration. The seal can be bought by Steele rubber or Rubber the right way.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101