1973 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible

[Joerg]

Throughout many states in America, a car that is 20 - 25 years old (depending on the state), is exempt from mechanical state inspections. The state governments generally mandate that these cars be used only occasionally and for "show" purposes;however, it's not uncommon to see "Antique Plates" on an old car that is used as a daily driver.  Will your Cadillac need to conform to technical requirements on an annual basis?  James

Hi James,

in Germany a car, older then 30 years, becomes a "antique plate". In Germany  this plate calls "H-Kennzeichen=, H for Historical.

A vehicle imported from the USA must be converted to German standards (e.g. the lighting)
This examination is very extensive and complex and took me 2 hours.
After that I have to go by car for a technical inspection every 2 years, just like everyone else.
I can use the car as daily driver.

BR

Jörg

[Joerg]

Jörg
you are doing a great job here. Congratulation

Question: where did you get the new front floor mats? I have a 76 Eldorado Bicentennial, so our interiors are matching now but my mats don't look that nice.

Kind regards from near Stuttgart
Peter

Hello Peter,

i bought the mats here:


BR

Jörg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

A vehicle imported from the USA must be converted to German standards (e.g. the lighting)
This examination is very extensive and complex and took me 2 hours.
After that I have to go by car for a technical inspection every 2 years, just like everyone else.
I can use the car as daily driver.  Jörg 

Does Germany have cheaper concessional registration for your older cars?

Bruce.

[Joerg]

Does Germany have cheaper concessional registration for your older cars?

Bruce.

Hi Bruce,

yes the tax and the assurance are very cheaper.

The assurance for the Cadillac costs 62 â,¬ (69 US$) / year, the motor vehicle tax costs 190 â,¬ (211,50 US$)/ year.

Usually the tax for the Cadillac with 500 cui engine costs 1.700 â,¬ (1892 US$) / year, if you don't have a classic car status.

BR

Jörg

[Joerg]

Looks great!  These are such wonderful cars.  Took Janice's for a little cruise on Monday after a full weekend of instructing at the race track in caged race cars.  I was sore.  The experience of driving the Eldo was sublime, like riding in a silent cloud.

Best of luck with the inspection.

BTW, I bought similar floor mats through Rock Auto.  They are made by Auto Custom Carpets, Inc. in Anniston Alabama and are really nice quality.  I like the embroidered logos.  Here's a link to the manufacturer's page:

https://www.accmats.com/commerce/1973/Cadillac/Eldorado/Floor%20Mat/11319/

Hi,

thanks!

the technical inspection was only partially successful.

I have to renew the following parts:

4 new tires (wrong speed index),

Wheel bearing of the front axle (would be very friendly if I could get tips and instructions) !!!,

Cuffs of the front upper ball joints (not sure if the translation is correct ...),

Exhaust system rear silencer,

Find the engine number and take a picture (can someone tell me where to find them?)

Thanks in advance for your help and interest.

Best regards

Jörg

[winger888]

Thanks guys for the "Mats links"

@Jörg: good luck for you to get it all fixed. Sorry I cant help at this point since I am a greenhorn myself and still learning. You may try to contact or better become a member at cadillac-club.de here in Germany. Some very helpful members there.

[James Landi]

Hi Jorge,

Ball joints do have a "service life," and would be suspect for looseness as they do wear ... I  wonder about the wheel bearing... how was that detected?  I believe the bearings for these cars are still available... the 1967 had one large, expensive bearing on each front axle... I believe your car has two on each side, and I think they are not excessively expensive, but someone else who has a model like yours should provide you with expert advice.  Happy day,  James

[MaR]

Hi,

thanks!

the technical inspection was only partially successful.

I have to renew the following parts:

4 new tires (wrong speed index),

Wheel bearing of the front axle (would be very friendly if I could get tips and instructions) !!!,

Cuffs of the front upper ball joints (not sure if the translation is correct ...),

Exhaust system rear silencer,

Find the engine number and take a picture (can someone tell me where to find them?)

Thanks in advance for your help and interest.

Best regards

Jörg

Front wheel bearings: They are available in the US for about $90 for each side. You also have to replace the inner and outer seals (less than $10 for both seals for each side).

To replace the front bearing set, you have to remove the knuckle assembly from the car. Remove the three seal retainer bolts from the seal retainer plate (behind the hub). Next, remove the inner seal and press the bearing set, hub, and outer seal out of the knuckle. Cut the outer seal off of the hub assembly (for added clearance) and press the bearing off of the hub. Clean the hub and knuckle bearing surfaces. Reassembly: Grease the new bearing and bearing bore and insert the new bearing set. It should slide in without having to press it in. Insert the new outer seal. Make sure to pack the inside of the seal with grease before installing it Install the shim plate and seal retainer plate and torque the three bolts to 35 ft/lbs. Support the bearing set and knuckle and press the hub into the new bearing set. Finally, press in the new inner seal. Make sure to pack the inside with grease before installing it. Tip for installing the seal: If you save the old wheel bearing set spacer, it's the exact size to fit over the lip of the inner seal to use it as a pressing tool.

I think "cuffs of the front upper ball joints" means the rubber boots that hold the grease in. I don't see those for sale by themselves, only included with a replacement upper ball joint. You have to remove the ball joint to replace the boot anyway so you should just replace the joint. They are available in the US for $40 per side.

To replace them, you have to cut the rivets off of the existing ball joint assembly and the new ball joint is bolted in place. You can do this while the knuckle is off when you replace the bearings.

I'm not aware of any "engine number" on the engine anywhere.

[hornetball]

Highly recommend purchasing a Factory Service Manual and Body Manual.  They are available online as a CD.

That sounds like a good inspection.  This site has info on finding the engine number:

https://www.cad500parts.com/tech/EngineIDPages.pdf

Rear/top/passenger for casting number and rear/top/driver for serial number.

[Joerg]

Hello everybody,

Thank you for your answers, you helped me a lot!

I got all the parts here in Germany from a specialized Cadillac parts seller.

I have bought there many times. He can get almost anything, of course it comes at a price.

Both wheel bearings with seals: â,¬ 500.00
Both ball joints: â,¬ 300.00
Rear silencer: â,¬ 300.00
4 tires with white walls: â,¬ 1,000.00
Approximately: US $ 2,332.00

In the United States, the parts would be cheaper, but the high shipping costs often destroy this advantage. And it takes a long time ...

In the meantime I have already invested â,¬ 12,000 without a purchase price.
Approximately US $ 13,325

But the car is in perfect condition and worth every penny.

I love this car!

I thank you again and wish you a nice weekend!

Sincerely yours

Jörg

[Joerg]

Hi Jorge,

Ball joints do have a "service life," and would be suspect for looseness as they do wear ... I  wonder about the wheel bearing... how was that detected?  I believe the bearings for these cars are still available... the 1967 had one large, expensive bearing on each front axle... I believe your car has two on each side, and I think they are not excessively expensive, but someone else who has a model like yours should provide you with expert advice.  Happy day,  James

Hello,

The car is raised at the front until the wheels are in the air.

Then the wheel is shaken firmly with both hands, offset 180 degrees.

Usually the wheel shouldn't move, for me it was about half a cm (0,2 inch).

Best regards

Jörg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I purchased the parts from Rock Auto, and they will probably have the ball joints.

Bearings.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1972,eldorado,8.2l+500cid+v8,1025862,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

Seals.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1972,eldorado,8.2l+500cid+v8,1025862,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+seal,1860

The bearings are sold as a set, that is two cups, two cones, and the spacer.   These are special bearings, and can be easily installed.

Nothing against your Euro Supplier, but Rock Auto sells good stuff, and has a good supply to pick from.

Bruce.

[Joerg]

Hello Bruce,

thanks for the links.

If i saw the prices, i got teardrops in my eyes...

Next one, i look first by rockauto.

BR

Jörg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Jörg,

Sorry I didn't read your mind, or I could have pre-empted your requirements.

One thing in this day and age with the internet, one can check out a lot before decisions are made.

Bruce.

[James Landi]

Speaking of tears, Gorge, when my 1967 Eldorado developed a bad wheel bearing following over a decade of daily driving and over 200,000 miles, I took it to a shop to have it repaired.  I had owned the car for over ten years, and the buzzing wheel bearing develop in 1984. I recall telling the service manager to give me a price to replace both bearings, thinking that if one was bad, the other would  fail soon.  He called to tell me that the price for the single wheel bearing was $400.00.   Needless to say, I had the one bearing replaced, and sold the car for several hundred dollars--- lots of tears -- lots of trouble free miles, but my beloved car was worn out!   Happy day to you, James

[hornetball]

The car is raised at the front until the wheels are in the air.

Then the wheel is shaken firmly with both hands, offset 180 degrees.

Usually the wheel shouldn't move, for me it was about half a cm (0,2 inch).

This is my standard bearing test too, but this test will also show looseness if bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends are worn.  So . . . be careful.  Nothing more frustrating that replacing good parts.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

This is my standard bearing test too, but this test will also show looseness if bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends are worn.  So . . . be careful.  Nothing more frustrating that replacing good parts. 

Mine too, but I am not strong enough to be able to rattle the ball joints, except for the tie rod end.

I once went to a facility with my son's passenger bus for a licencing test, for the bus that is, and boy, the machine shook that vehicle so much that if nothing was suspect before the test, it sure would be afterwards.

Bruce.

[Joerg]

I saw it too.
Nothing moved except the wheels.
The diagnosis of the wheel bearings was correct in my opinion
Otherwise, only loose wheel bolts would be possible ...

Jörg

[Joerg]

Hello all,

the car is my home now. 

Thanks to all for your help!

BR

Jörg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Congratulations Jörg,

Looks gorgeous.

Bruce.

PS.   How bad were the parts that required replacing?