Winter Storage Advice?

[dannygila]

Hello All,
This is the first winter I will have had my 1976 Fleetwood Brougham and would like to "properly" store it in my unheated garage soon. I've already taped down a large sheet of plastic and put carpeting down over that to help with preventing moisture from the concrete getting on the underside. One thing I was told to do is to put it up on jack stands about an inch off the ground so flat spots do not start developing on the tires and also to take some weight off the suspension. My questions are:
1. Could doing this damage the air suspension in any way? Should the battery be disconnected before raising the car?
2. Any advice on how to keep critters from getting in the car?
3. Any additional tips or advice when it comes to storing a car long term?
Thanks in advance for any input!
-Dan

[TJ Hopland]

Just for the winter I would not really do anything special.  Bias ply tires were the ones that tended to get flat spots in em.  For me critters are the bigger concern.  A a cat or dog that likes mice seems to be the best.       

[Jw4]

I would also not do a lot of preparations if it is just for a one-season storage. But, I would certainly spray fogging oil into each cylinder (follow the instructions on the can), and make sure that you have good ventilation in the garage. Also, clean the car inside-out, of course.
If you really-really want to store properly, I would check the factory storage instructions for military vehicles. From what I remember, you are supposed to clean everything, change ALL fluids, place it on stands to relief the suspension, cover all unpainted metal surfaces with grease, remove the battery, and maybe even drain the carburetor and the fuel lines lines completely, to avoid sludge build-up. The contact ignition (if you have it), I believe, is also supposed to be disassembled, but I do not recall what you are supposed to do with it 

[bcroe]

Do use a battery maintainer, and make sure it stays
plugged in.  Besides cars not heavily used, I have
them on things like a tractor, spare battery, and
a backup generator set.  These are regulated to
avoid the over charge from a simple trickle charger.
Bruce Roe

[Michael Petti]

To keep mice and other critters out, use dryer sheets. Put them in the interior, trunk, glovebox engine compartment, and under the seats. Mice and critters hate the smell, and the car will smell fresh in the spring. Another thing, stick a rag in air cleaner intake so nothing gets in the air cleaner and if you can get to it the tail pipe. Lastly, make a list so you don't forget to undo any of it in the spring.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Disconnect the battery, and if possible, bring the battery into a warm area of the house.   Batteries don't like cold.

If you are going to leave the battery connected, use a Battery Tender to maintain charge, and to keep any electrics operating that are working when the ignition is off.   Like the Clock.

Plus, as you say, it is in an unheated garage, if there is any chance of the coolant freezing, you should be ensuring that the correct amount of anti-freeze is in the coolant.   No good protecting lots, but having the block crack from frozen coolant.

Bruce.

[Jw4]

Disconnect the battery, and if possible, bring the battery into a warm area of the house.   Batteries don't like cold.

Always assumed it is better to store it in the cold, to "slow down" the chemical processes inside. Just looked it up, it is actually recommended to store at between 32 and 80 degrees...

Checking to make sure that the coolant is at the correct consistency is a good idea 

[TJ Hopland]

Some mice seem to like dryer sheets.   Last time I used them they collected them and built a nest.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The main thing to consider when having to worry about rodents attacking your car in storeage would be to isolate the car from attack.

Anyone thought about putting the cay up on jackstands, with the jackstands placed in trays of water, and the car sufficiently high enough to stop the rodents from crossing the water, and climbing?

Having any means of access, like draping power leads to power the Battery Tenders, and block heaters is an invitation to climb.

Bruce.

[Jw4]

How about just installing a couple of ultrasonic pest repellents? 

[kevinanderson]

I leave my hoods up trunk lids up glove boxes open sunvisors down and arm rests partially down aside from the good advice above. I too had dryer sheet nests and Irish spring bar soap eaten.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Don't make this harder than it has to be.
Use a battery tender ($20 at Harbor Fright) or disconnect the battery.
Leave the car on the ground. Less gas is better than more gas, change your fluids in the spring.
Open 2 of windows about an inch (front left, right rear), cover the car with a light dust cover.
This is only device that works to repel critters. Standard issue at Hyannis Vintage Auto in all
of their shops and storage areas. I use one in the Shelter Logic for my car, NEVER a critter. Anywhere.

https://mouseblocker.com/

[Jw4]

Less gas is better than more gas.

Since the tank is usually uncoated on the inside, it is probably the opposite. Otherwise, potential condensation build-up and rust is possible. The reason for storing the vehicle with clean fluids, although wasteful, is probably the same. Many of the fluids are hygroscopic and will eventually absorb moisture. That is, in addition to their natural degradation and loss of useful properties due to previous use.

[Lexi]

I as well would recommend filling your tank with fresh gas with a stabilizer added. Try to buy ethanol free fuel. You don't want condensation build up inside the tank. As for the tires, I inflate my bias plys to about 40 psi to help keep them round while they sit all winter. Pressure would vary on the type of tire mounted on your rims. Go for about 10 psi over what you normally would put into your tire. Just remember to adjust the air pressure come spring. Some cars may not "like" being up in the air for months. See my June Self Starter article which touches on this. You should be keeping a vehicle log book, with a diary date to remind you of this come spring. When buying a charger for long term storage make sure it is a smart charger like the Battery Tender Plus or their 3 amp model, which is good for 6 or 12 volt systems. These are designed to keep a float charge in your battery but not burn out the plates through over charging.  Recommended to put on at least a 10 amp charger prior to storage for about 30 - 45 minutes. That said, removal of the battery to the warm indoors is best but not always possible, (still recommend to top up charge when out of car every 2-3 months). If you are in this for the long haul buy a radiator coolant tester. They are inexpensive, stable and last for years. Also worthy of consideration is a wet cell battery tester if your battery is old style. Inexpensive and long lasting. A relatively fresh oil change prior to storage is also recommended. Scaring away rodents is another matter-read commentes made by others on this. I would also thoroughly clean your car and put a fresh coat of wax or other product you use on the exterior, prior to covering her for the season. Some go as far to coat exterior chrome with light oil or grease. Clay/Lexi

[fishnjim]

You want to get to a point where, you can tell if something's changed come spring.  I'd follow the normal fluid change intervals and top up/mark so can spot fluid losses.
Unheated in Cleveland exposes you to subfreezing temps.  So those items need addressed. 
If there's no activity around the garage, it's more likely a haven for rodents.  Depends where it is and what it's adjacent to(woods, etc).  I was traveling for two weeks once and we got a 12" snow while gone, and when I got home I had a visitor get in.  The height of snow allowed access to an electrical penetration for HVAC, and it ate through the putty.  So check the exterior for penetrations and make as tight as possible.
I'd inflate the tires once it gets cold(30s), so they don't "sag" while sitting.  If you store now while it's warm, they'll lose 4-5 psi with temp and stress the side walls.
fyi;One can jack up the car such that the suspension is not "under stress" but I don't think this is necessary over winter and with modern tires. 
All depends if you're going to start the vehicle and allow to warm up to operating temperature periodically or just let it sit about keeping battery up or fogging.  I'd pull the battery and put somewhere warm, if not starting.
My biggest issue with northern OH weather was when we had a deep cold snap then a warm rain or fog and lots of condensation in the garage/cold surfaces and on electricals.  Would kill a dist cap or points, but you're HEI.

[Jw4]

All depends if you're going to start the vehicle and allow to warm up to operating temperature periodically.

That is a very good point. All my previous comments were intended for a long cold storage, without running the car... Also, I remembered what you are supposed to do with the ignition contacts - you need to grease them as well. The same goes for the brake drums (disks). But, if you are going to do this, do not grease the shoes/pads (!) and don't forget to clean the grease off, with appropriate solvent, in the spring.

[James Landi]

"To keep mice and other critters out, use dryer sheets. Put them in the interior, trunk, glovebox engine compartment, and under the seats. Mice and critters hate the smell, and the car will smell fresh in the spring. Another thing, stick a rag in air cleaner intake so nothing gets in the air cleaner and if you can get to it the tail pipe. Lastly, make a list so you don't forget to undo any of it in the spring."

Lots of good advice -- including the above quote-- you'll read mixed reviews on dryer sheets, but I use them inside and outside of the car  (a full box)--- on and around the wheels, and even stuff a few in the exhaust pipe and engine compartment.(I live in Maine where rodents seek shelter during brutal winters)  Also: moth balls on metal trays inside of the car... and yes, disconnect the battery--- you will lose , on average, 1% of the existing charge each month with the battery disconnected (a must) so a charger isn't a necessity, but may serve to extend your battery life.   I also worry about condensation in the fuel tank, so fill'er up (and add a dash of stabilizer... another suggestion: don't run your car at idle during the winter unless you're going to take it our and drive it around for at least ten miles--- as you can well imagine, the mechanical components will rust from condensation if those parts are not entirely heated to dry up accumulated condensation.  I also endorse your concern about the vapor barrier on the underside of the car--(much less of an issue since it's on a cement pad)    Happy day, James

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Fuel, I've done both, twice.
Full tank = weeks of the car running bad on old fuel, yes I used Sta-Bil.
Less than a 1/4 tank = full tank of fresh fuel in the spring, a few miles of rough running
until the fresh fuel takes over then, happiness.
YMMV

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Don't start it unless you plan to drive it. Moisture will be in the oil and starting it for 5 minutes will only get the moisture everywhere ans not have the chance to burn off.
Jeff R.

[Jw4]

Full tank = weeks of the car running bad on old fuel, yes I used Sta-Bil.

How long did you store it for? I just can't imagine an average-grade gasoline going bad-enough to notice the difference in an average engine performance, over one season change.

Don't start it unless you plan to drive it. Moisture will be in the oil and starting it for 5 minutes will only get the moisture everywhere ans not have the chance to burn off.

Sounds very reasonable.