1960s '67 CDV Radiator Fluid Issue

[Snibbor]

Have an all new Alum radiator as of 2 years ago. But recently when I idle in park the gauge goes up but then drops (to about a quarter from left..back to normal..) when driving. I can smell the Radiator fluid at all times though. And it seems to be losing fluid....I am including a video of my starting the car with the rad cap off.....Thanx in advanced with suggestions!

"C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\IMG_1788.MOV"

[dn010]

The link you posted won't work. However, my suggestion is to put a pressure tester on it, pump it up and see what you've got after 10 minutes.

[TJ Hopland]

Are you constantly topping off the system?  I assume this doesn't have a 'overflow' bottle?  If it doesn't have one the radiator can't be full to the top.  They will usually find the level they want to be at and then stay there.   

The original radiators were designed to operate with air space at the top.  I have seen 'new' designs that just don't seem to like running with that air space and on those all you can do is add a bottle. 

[Snibbor]

Here is the video again.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

My Cadillacs and Oldsmobile typically like to keep roughly an inch from the very top of the radiator.  They all keep around the first mark on the temp gauge.  If its puking up either 1. Theres too much coolant or 2. timing or carb adjustment have the car running to hot at times causing it to puke.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

You definitely need a overflow bottle, or a recovery system of some sort, or simply run the level like a pre-pollution car.

The cross-flow radiator in my Ranchero runs the level at about 4" below the top when cold.

But, the main problem with Aluminium radiators is that they need to be larger than the original Copper/Brass ones.

Bruce.

[Snibbor]

Thanks Bruce. And thanx all.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Forgot to mention that when using a recovery bottle, you need the correct radiator cap that allows the coolant to travel back into the radiator.

Just using a total loss system, you only need the basic pressure cap.   This way, when the excess coolant is expelled, the cap allows air back into the radiator as the coolant cools down and contracts, it doesn't seal and stop the air returning which will collapse the radiator material and hoses.

Where a lot of people come to grief when building their own systems is using a pressure container as the recovery tank.   They forget that the last one has to be vented to the air.   This is where auto dismantlers come in handy as they are a good source for used tanks of different sizes and types.

Bruce.

[Daryl Chesterman]

Where a lot of people come to grief when building their own systems is using a pressure container as the recovery tank.   They forget that the last one has to be vented to the air.   This is where auto dismantlers come in handy as they are a good source for used tanks of different sizes and types.

NAPA has a very good universal overflow tank that I installed on a 1959 Deville.  It is part number 730-4514.

Daryl Chesterman