New engine for my LaSalle.

[914Driver]

I have a 1940 Series 52, it came with a 322 cube flathead that had a bad repair to the block.  Owner said it was a good job, but the engine is locked up. 

I've rebuilt engines before and this one had all new stuff inside.  Problem is the builder never gapped the rings.  Right from the bag to the piston and in.  Once warmed up, there was no place to expand, soooo .....  I had to use a wooden plug and BFH to drive it out.  The cylinders were pitted from sitting that .030 over didn't clean them up.  The crack in the block was between the valves and cylinder (looking down at the top of the block).  The Napa machinist said he could repair the repair, but gave it a 30% chance of success.

 I found a 346 from a 1942 Caddy and dragged it home.

The poor engine did not have the optional oil filter, ugly, caked on burnt oil and carbon kept it from leaking oil.    So a month later and more money than expected, I should have it back next week.  The cylinders didn't clean up at .010 or .020 over, so now it's .030 over making it a 352 cube engine.

But I have a question:  The engine-tranny package weighs about 900 lbs.  Using a hoist with the screw thing that allows you to change the center of gravity to tip the tail shaft down and water pump up, do you think the 3/8-16 threads on top would support all that weight?  Tensile strength of the thread for a Grade 2 bole is 4300lbs and 11,600 for grade 8.  I shouldn't be scared; or should I?

[914Driver]

I like the Cavern Moss Green of the 42-48 Cadillac engines over the correct Olive Drab of the LaSalle engines.  As I'm not going to Pebble Beach, I just have to make me happy. 
*After this photo I went back and removed the casting flash and repainted).

[harry s]

You could split the difference and use grade 5 bolts along with a four point attachment to the engine and be fine. Keep us posted.    Harry

[914Driver]

Thanks Harry, never thought of splitting the load.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I have found that using bolts to hold the end of a lifting chain is not a good itea as bolts can bend is the bolt is not tightened down to lock the end of the chain.   Bolts were meant to be stront in tension, not sideways flex.

Remember that the lifting chain that you are using is a lot less in strength than the bolt though. Looks like 1/4" chain.   And with the flash welding, not a high tensile chain as well.

Don't forget that any lifting device is as weak as the weakest link.

As for the bolts, the strength in these is the diameter of the thread, at the base diameter of said thread.

When lifting heavy steel stuff, I use steel plates with a hole in one end to clamp tight to the unit, and another hole in the other end to attach the chain with shackles.

Bruce.

[toybox]

I use a second chain that is just a little lose over the hook on the boom just because I've never trusted those load levelers. Tim

[bcroe]

I would never attempt to install the engine and trans
together, I put in one and then the other.  Supports
have been made to hold either in place without the
other.  Bruce Roe

[harry s]

I agree about being skeptical about the load levelers. The one I have is rated at 1500#. It does bow a little with the engine and trans combo which pushes on the upper limit of it's capacity. In addition to Bruce R's comments on the bolt strength being in the head and not so much the body tightening the bolt at the lifting connection also puts less stress on the engine block.   Harry

[914Driver]

Thanks for the input folks.  The chain above belongs to the machine shop, not mine.