1960s '66 Eldorado correct rear brake hose?

[Julien Abrahams]

Dear all,

Just a quick question. Installing new brakes on a '66 Eldorado (inc. new lines and hoses). When installing the rear brake hose I assumed that it needed a copper washer between the male end of the hose and the t-junction on the rear axle. But when tightening, the connection bottoms out well before the copper washer is crushed. Now I am in doubt if this is the correct hose. I ordered from Rockauto. Hoses from other vendors appear to be the same.
Unfortunately I cannot find the old hose anymore (most likely threw it in the garbage).
Male end of hose is about 1/2 inch.
Does this look right to you guys or will this leak faster than I can poor in brake fluid?  .

[Julien Abrahams]

Update:
I found the original hose and that appears to have the same dimensions, give or take a few tenths of a mm).

[Big Fins]

Is it possible that you have it inverted? Try reverse fitting it.

[Cadman-iac]

  Another possibility is that the new line has the wrong thread pitch/count per inch.
 If it's a metric thread it'll go in just so far before the threads bind. Double check the threads between the two for any differences.
 As for the hose being inverted/reversed, the front fitting should be a female thread, the tubing nut goes into it so inverting shouldn't be possible.

 Rick

[Big Fins]

As for the hose being inverted/reversed, the front fitting should be a female thread, the tubing nut goes into it so inverting shouldn't be possible.

 Rick

I hate when I don't think of the obvious. Sitting in a chair in the A/C is nothing like laying on your back looking at the job.

[klinebau]

It looks like the brake hose threads into a block that is probably an inverted flare or AN fitting.  Neither of these types of fittings use a crush washer to seal.  The seal is made with the shape at the end of the threaded part.  I would presume that if it is bottoming out, then it is properly sealing.  If you can show us a detailed picture of the end of that threaded part, we can confirm.

[Cadman-iac]

It looks like the brake hose threads into a block that is probably an inverted flare or AN fitting.  Neither of these types of fittings use a crush washer to seal.  The seal is made with the shape at the end of the threaded part.  I would presume that if it is bottoming out, then it is properly sealing.  If you can show us a detailed picture of the end of that threaded part, we can confirm.

 You may be right about that. I was thinking about how the front hoses go on. But I stand by my earlier statement about the thread pitch. I have had this happen to me a couple times with overseas parts.

 Rick

[Joe G 12138]

It looks like the brake hose threads into a block that is probably an inverted flare or AN fitting.  Neither of these types of fittings use a crush washer to seal.  The seal is made with the shape at the end of the threaded part.  I would presume that if it is bottoming out, then it is properly sealing.  If you can show us a detailed picture of the end of that threaded part, we can confirm.
[/quote
    I had the same questions on a '65 last year. There is no copper washer needed on that "T" block. The taper of the hose compliments the inverted flare taper in the pocket in the "T". One is brass; one is steel. Tighten it up and it shouldn't leak. Extra threads may be exposed; no problem.    Joe G

[Julien Abrahams]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I just wanted to make sure.
Unfortunately, when I filled the master cylinder and started to bleed the brakes I discovered that practically all brake line connections leaked. At first I tried to tighten it, but it would still leak, just not as bad.
I figure that someting is not right with the flares. I bought a Draper flaring turret tool (this one: https://www.drapertools.com/product/23310/draper-expert-brake-pipe-flaring-turret-kit/ )  thinking that it would make near perfect flares on the new cunifer brake lines. But I guess something went wrong although I followed all the correct steps. Admittingly, this is my first time making brake lines and flaring them myself. So it might be user error.
So I removed all the brake lines again and going to ask for help at a couple of local garages to see if they can and are willing to help me to make the flares.
Nonetheless I was bummed out....

[Cadman-iac]

  I'm not familiar with the tool you are using, but here's one that I've used and found it works great. It's by Mastercool, and they have several different levels of this kit depending upon what you want it for. This one has all the dies available in kit form. A bit expensive but worth the price in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_mw_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=MASTERCOOL

 I'm sorry your lines need to be redone. It's bad enough to have to do a job once, but it sucks to have to do it twice.
 The nice thing about this tool is that it is hydraulic. Not that it's tough to use a manual flaring tool, that's all I've ever used up until last month.
 I had to replace the oil cooler lines on both of my Suburbans and the heavy 1/2" tubing required a more substantial tool in order to flare it. I tried the ones I've always used but they couldn't hold the tubing, it would just push straight through the clamping portion and wouldn't even make a dent in the end as far as a flared end goes.
 Good luck with your brake lines. I wish you better success this time.

 Rick