1950s 1959 Cadillac exhaust tip question

[TJ Hopland]

I'm assuming they are talking about what is usually called the draft tube?  That is the crankcase breather and unless they have some major blockage going on that is just increasing pressures all over the place the noise and flow out of that tube should not have changed. 

Was your old exhaust system leaking anywhere?  If so maybe it was covering up other noises that have grown since your system was nice and tight and quiet. 

I do wonder a bit about the heat riser like if somehow its been damaged or jammed shut.  If it is there should be a pretty noticeable difference in what is coming out the tail pipes.  The side with the valve should have almost no flow.

Does anyone know if waldrons ships their systems with any sorts of caps or plugs that are supposed to be removed before install?  I don't think I have ever seen that but just wondering what could be going on here.


Did you find out more about the transmission work they did?  I wonder if some of that is contributing to your perception that things just are not right?  Like if they got into and damaged or messed with the control linkage?

[Cadillac Jack 82]

OK hang on. Are you using the correct exhaust hangers. Because if you are the rear of the resonator IS in the right spot because it is a straight pipe. You cannot incorrectly bend straight. That does not speak to the rest of the system. But you have only shown a tailpipe angled down behind the bumper.

I'm using Grants hangers from NZ.  Everything looks in line but it's hanging down low in spots such as in the rear with the rear resonators AND the passenger side is visible.  They did state that they were able to adjust it a little bit better.  I'll see when I pick it up in a day or two.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I'm assuming they are talking about what is usually called the draft tube?  That is the crankcase breather and unless they have some major blockage going on that is just increasing pressures all over the place the noise and flow out of that tube should not have changed. 

Was your old exhaust system leaking anywhere?  If so maybe it was covering up other noises that have grown since your system was nice and tight and quiet. 

I do wonder a bit about the heat riser like if somehow its been damaged or jammed shut.  If it is there should be a pretty noticeable difference in what is coming out the tail pipes.  The side with the valve should have almost no flow.

Does anyone know if waldrons ships their systems with any sorts of caps or plugs that are supposed to be removed before install?  I don't think I have ever seen that but just wondering what could be going on here.


Did you find out more about the transmission work they did?  I wonder if some of that is contributing to your perception that things just are not right?  Like if they got into and damaged or messed with the control linkage?

I'm wondering that too and if somethings in a muffler or resonator somewhere.  Just doesnt make sense.

[Gabe Davis]

Does anyone know if waldrons ships their systems with any sorts of caps or plugs that are supposed to be removed before install?  I don't think I have ever seen that but just wondering what could be going on here.

The system I installed on my '59 from them did not. The pieces were across two cardboard boxes but nothing was capped. The pipes were wrapped in brown paper if I recall correctly.

I'm wondering if they didn't route it properly somehow.  If they did then its a matter of finding a shop that can tweak it to fit properly.

When I did mine I hung all of the parts loosely and then, from front to back, did some tweaking and pulling to align everything and tightened as I went. I remember the mufflers being the most difficult part to get to tuck up into place. The mounts needed to twist at the clamp to pull the muffler into place. Once it was massaged a little everything looked great.

I also remember thinking that it was great how there were no burrs on the pipes so nothing had to be hammered together. The pipes easily slipped together.

Each of the pipes was clearly labeled left or right and what their position was so hopefully your shop guys had enough brain cells to figure that part out and everything is in the right place.

Perhaps your system just needs a little finessing to get it where it needs to be.

[TJ Hopland]

If they used the typical U bolt clamps and didn't align things right hopefully they didn't just set the impact gun to 11 and go to town on those clamps.  By their design they crimp and crush the pipes.  The tighter they go the worse the crush which can basically make it impossible to take apart or even rotate the pipes.  You end up damaging stuff and burning up a lot of time.  Sometimes the only option is to cut the pipe off then slit the inner pipe so it will collapse and can be removed then use an expander to allow you to insert a new piece of pipe.

IF you are not going for the original look and there is any chance you ever want to take anything part spend the extra money and buy band clamps.  They hold great and don't crush the pipe.  They do cost more like maybe $10 but in the grand scheme of things that really isn't much. You can also use the band clamps as a patch when you had to cut pipes to patch up other bad work. 

[Big Fins]

Going back to the original question about the exhaust tips themselves, when the pipe exited the resonators, they were curved almost perfectly down toward the ground and cut to a parallel ending with the ground, if it even needed to be cut at all. It was also a 1 3/4" pipe. The 59-60 Authenticity Manual should have this included.

I'm no expert by any means, but I purchased a complete '59 SDV that the only thing changed on it was the engine and transmission, because the owner wanted to be able to service the car himself and didn't like the canister oil filter. He swapped in a 1962 Engine and transmission through the dealer. Strange as it may seem, it was done.

How a country can dictate the exhaust tip endings is about as idiotic as I could think of, but then again, they do everything upside down south of the Equator.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

If they used the typical U bolt clamps and didn't align things right hopefully they didn't just set the impact gun to 11 and go to town on those clamps.  By their design they crimp and crush the pipes.  The tighter they go the worse the crush which can basically make it impossible to take apart or even rotate the pipes.  You end up damaging stuff and burning up a lot of time.  Sometimes the only option is to cut the pipe off then slit the inner pipe so it will collapse and can be removed then use an expander to allow you to insert a new piece of pipe.

IF you are not going for the original look and there is any chance you ever want to take anything part spend the extra money and buy band clamps.  They hold great and don't crush the pipe.  They do cost more like maybe $10 but in the grand scheme of things that really isn't much. You can also use the band clamps as a patch when you had to cut pipes to patch up other bad work. 

Everything on this car must be factory.  The car is an excellent condition survivor so I'm not interested in taking anything away from its originality.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I'll take some photos today.  more fluff and gruff from this shop.  The shop manager isn't even in today supposedly.  I'm about to have my car pulled and towed to a reputable shop.  I'm over this monkey business. 

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Cars back in my hands.  The heat riser was stuck and now appears to be flopping under acceleration.  I'm taking her to an exhaust shop tomorrow so I'll have them take a look at that.  Here is the exhaust as it is now.  Sounds great but doesnt look great.  Also numbnuts over at the shop adjusted the parking brake to taught so it's dragging slightly

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Photos

Also somehow I now have vapor lock? 

[Clewisiii]

Yes those pipes are on the wrong side of the clamp. Fixing it will raise it 3 inches.

[Clewisiii]

Sorry wrong side of hanger is what I meant.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

But will that fix the front mufflers?

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Btw the exhaust note is pretty darn close to the original exhaust that came off of her.

[Clewisiii]

I cannot really see the front mufflers in that picture . But the front muffler has a hanger on both the front and back. So if those are installed correctly there is not much adjustment.

[Clewisiii]

[Cadillac Jack 82]

It looks as if the u is upside down by the front mufflers?  I'm assuming they should all be an upside down U with the clamps?

[59-in-pieces]

Tim,

Gabe, describes what it takes to do a proper job - loose fit from front to back twisting and adjusting as you go and slightly tighten to avoid slipping.
Once is place front to back, then tighten up and making sure the saddles and mounting plates are horizontal to the ground as well.

This system - no matter how well the pipes are bent - IS NOT PLUG AND PLAY.

Here are a couple more pics to show the original asbestose wrap and replaced with 2 pieces of spiral wrap.
Now, I have not used the "repro" aftermarket asbestose wrap used in 40's exhausts to make a faux asbestose look, but you might want to consider it ?

Can't be sure but the smaller brace seemed to be missing ?

Have fun,
Steve B.

[TJ Hopland]

If the heat riser isn't working right or stuck open that will put a lot more heat in the carb so that could be your vapor lock.   Otherwise I would be looking at fuel lines.  If the suction side is pinched off that could be reducing the flow and pressure on the suction side which could make it boil in the line more easily.  If the return is restricted you won't have the continuous flow which will mean the slower moving fuel can get hotter and more chance of boil.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Well tonight was not a fun night.  She wouldnt start when I stopped off at home.  An hour later, with the help of some starter fluid, she fired up.  Started driving back to her garage when I stopped at Auto Zone for fuel chemicals..and also some Marvel because of a noticeable tap coming from the front drivers side of the engine.  Was never there before but it is now.  Went to start her again...nothing.  Bought a new coil because I thought that might be the issue and she started....but then half way to the garage the gen light kicked on and stayed on.  Great...dead gen again.  To make matters worse the storage place I keep her at was closed....so shes now sitting tucked away carefully by the lease office in the hopes she'll be there tomorrow.  I can honestly say this has been one glorious sh*t show.