Paint Care for Black Lacquer Single Stage Paint

[Jim Miller]

Before doing anything abrasive, try doing the Meguiars #7 "soak" It's an old school formula that "feeds" the single-stage lacquer, and brings back a lot of the shine. You can find the specifics on one of the dedicated detailing forums like Autogeek. But basically you slather it on very liberally, like 1 1/2 to 2 bottles on a large car, and leave it overnight before rubbing it off. Then top it with whatever wax or ceramic you like.

Dave - you've not had an issue with the #7 drying on the surface by letting it sit overnight?

[David Greenburg]

Jum- it does require some elbow grease, and sometimes a little more #7 to get it off.

[J. Skelly]

just spray a little bit of water on dried wax or polish to rehydrate it enough to wipe off the excess

[Stefan Bartelski]

Before doing anything abrasive, try doing the Meguiars #7 "soak" It's an old school formula that "feeds" the single-stage lacquer, and brings back a lot of the shine. You can find the specifics on one of the dedicated detailing forums like Autogeek. But basically you slather it on very liberally, like 1 1/2 to 2 bottles on a large car, and leave it overnight before rubbing it off. Then top it with whatever wax or ceramic you like.

I can concur with the #7 trick, although the newer formula is not as good a stuff from a few years ago. I have a 1951 Olds 88 (sorry folks), with original black paint and the #7 makes it sparkle. A day or two later I cover with carnuba wax and it shines! However, neither of those two coatings cover or hide paint imperfections, more like a camouflage, the surface is so shiny you do not notice the imperfections as much.

Stefan

[Michael Petti]

Posting to this older post because I was all the information. I appreciate all the information and have researched all the products suggested and then some. I have concluded that a little cutting will be needed to improve on the scratches and, since there is no oxidation I have tentatively settled on Meguires Ultimate Polish. It seems to be the least abrasive product that might still smooth out the edges of the scratches. Also, it is readily available at reasonable cost. I plan to clay bar, polish then wax. If I use pads, what color would be good? Yellow seems to be the most popular. I have a variable speed d/a sander, or I can use a 10inch orbital waxer with bonnets.  What suggestions does anyone have for the pad color or the type of bonnet to use on the waxer, (foam, terrycloth or microfiber) or anything else for that matter? Hand application is out of the question. Thanks in advance for any help.

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Presta Ultra Cutting Crème is what I used on this original lacquer paint '59. Tried all kinds of lighter polishes first but only the Presta restored the gloss. It has to be used with a 1,400 RPM buffer w/wool pad and a lot of care! Followed up with Meguiars 85 and then #7 by hand, then Carnauba wax.

[Michael Petti]

I'll look that up. The car looks awesome.

[harry s]

I have had good results with the old school three step method. First 3M 5928 swirl and light scratch remover next polish (the one you suggest would be fine) and finally a good quality carnauba wax. I'm not familiar with the foam pad color coding but find the less aggressive polishing pad on a DA does a good job and is more forgiving and easier to use than the more aggressive pads. Hand remove after each step with microfiber clothes. The final step is to sit back and admire.    Harry

[Series75]

I used a 5 step process to bring back the original lacquer on this 1959 SO paint Fleetwood.   The pic of the hood with severe scuff marks was approached agressively with 3M purple bottle compound and a white waffle foam pad followed by a wool loop pad and 3M imperial white polish.  This was followed up with Presta swirl remover and a black foam pad.  Finally a carnuba wax.   Important to wipe the surface between each application with a terry cloth and warm clear water.  (my camera leaves dark circles, its not the paint)

[Michael Petti]

That finish is awesome.  The info is great keep it coming. I am curious about the bonnets for a waxer that would work.

[harry s]

Just my opinion and what has worked best for me is to apply the wax by hand in straight back and forth motion with a soft cloth and remove the same way with microfiber one and two.  Harry

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

By habit, I've applied wax in a circular motion except near trim parts to keep it from building up the crevices. However, when using hand polish, Meguiars recommends going in a straight direction. This lessens the chance of swirls in the finish.

[Michael Petti]

I would love to do it by hand as I have many times, but not possible anymore.That's why I asked about bonnets and or disc color.

[Rich S]

My factory Sable Black painted '71 Eldorado Convertible was stripped to the metal in 2004 and repainted in black lacquer and it still gets compliments on the shiny paint. I have used a product called 3M Hand Glaze and applied it by hand and many observers ask if it is ". . . still the original paint?" Here is a link to the product and its description:  https://www.jbtools.com/3m-39007-imperial-hand-glaze-39007-16-fl-oz/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoJC-BhCSARIsAPhdfSjLvOUXKnoSvo-9tbjAwaTG1FCxnGS73frYxoW3pzVv1rqZD2a5WzEaAmyqEALw_wcB

[David Greenburg]

Maybe Amazon? Or one of the detailing sites like Autogeek would ship it.

[harry s]

Here's a link to Griot's Garage video showing the three step process using their products along with their orbital buffer: https://www.griotsgarage.com/how-to/polish/. They don't show a machine polisher for removing the different products to eliminate hand removal. I remember large diameter polishers years ago with bonnet type pads but have never used one.    Harry

[Carfreak]

I have a 1951 Olds 88 (sorry folks)

Stefan

No apologies required.  They were fast for their time and still very desirable.

[Carfreak]

By habit, I've applied wax in a circular motion except near trim parts to keep it from building up the crevices.

You likely are aware to use a Camel's Hair or other specialty brush to remove the unsightly white crud as part of the detailing process.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

You likely are aware to use a Camel's Hair or other specialty brush to remove the unsightly white crud as part of the detailing process.

I use my old toothbrushes for that.
They do a good job, and the car smells minty fresh afterwards 🙂.

[Jim Miller]

My '41 and '70 still have their lacquer finish. I use plain old carnuba wax - not a cleaner wax.  I use a liquid form and leave it soak in overnight. I put 5 coats on my 41 and it really brings out the finish.