1950s 1959 Cadillac headlight switch

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I think I know the answer to this already but I wanted to check here before I start sourcing parts.  When I pulled out my headlight switch to take my 59 back to her garage, my dash lights were out.  They worked fine before but I never could really dim them.  They'd cut out if I turned the switch.  I tried rotating the switch back and forth.  The interior light switch activates, but no dash lights.  Do I have a rherostat failure?  If so how hard is it to pull the switch to replace it?  Sorta annoying having no dash lights.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

You have a rheostat failure.

Should not be that difficult to remove to check if the coil is burnt out, but finding a replacement might be a bit more difficult.

Bruce.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Is this not it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313861773161

Or is this a cheap CCP knockoff?

[Michael Petti]

I had the exact same problem. After pulling the switch, inspect the rheostat. It is possible that corrosion or oxidation is the problem, and a good cleaning will do the trick. To remove the rheostat, you will have to loosen the screws holding the switch together so the new one can be slid into place. I suggest doing this with your hands and the switch inside a large clear plastic sandwich bag. If the switch accidentally comes apart there are two small springs inside which will fly out and you will have a hard time finding them. New switches are available, Caddy Daddy also has one advertised for $105.00. I was surprised that they were the lower cost option.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Fun well how hard is it to remove the switch?  I can easily get my hand back there but I'm unable to find the release for the pull switch.

[Michael Petti]

In my case on a 60 CDV I removed the screws fastening the dash pad to the metal part of the dash and raised it up high enough to get a 2x4 between the metal dash and the pad. Then I could get my hand in there and feel the button. After removing the switch stem, I had a tool I bought years ago to fit into the notches on the bezel, but I think a small or medium right-angle needle nose pliers would work too. Remove the bezel and the switch is out.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

In my case on a 60 CDV I removed the screws fastening the dash pad to the metal part of the dash and raised it up high enough to get a 2x4 between the metal dash and the pad. Then I could get my hand in there and feel the button. After removing the switch stem, I had a tool I bought years ago to fit into the notches on the bezel, but I think a small or medium right-angle needle nose pliers would work too. Remove the bezel and the switch is out.

Id prefer to not have to do that if possible.  Seems like you can get it out without lifting the dash pad?

[Michael Petti]

Supposedly yes, but I could not do it. Hands don't flex like they used to.

[David Greenburg]

If your car doesn't have a/c the odds of getting your hand up there without lifting the dash are much better. Or maybe you have a 10-year old neighbor who would like to learn a little bit about old cars. If you do wind up opening the dash, DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE SHIFT QUADRANT POINTER!!! (yes I'm yelling; if you break it you will have a lot of fun finding another one). Also a great opportunity to replace dash bulbs and lube control cables and speedo cable.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Well thats reassuring.  105 for a new rheostat plus some experience cleaning/revamping a switch seems like fun.

[Michael Petti]

The job is not as hard as it seems. In the 59 manual section 12-43 is the description of the job. It does refer back to comment 51 in section 12 page 38. The switch itself is pretty intuitive once you get inside it and figure out what contacts do what. I had found a drawing of it online when I did it and I thought I had saved it, but I couldn't find it in my "archives". Take a picture of the switch with the wires still hooked up so it's easy to know what goes where when reinstalling it. Let us know how you make out.

[gkhashem]

Watch this video on how to rebuild the switch from Caddy Daddy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZplrrkG27jo

I highly suggest disassembly and assembly inside a large freezer bag. This helps so the spring inside the switch does not go flying away. Fairly easy job unless you lose that spring.

Very easy to let the spring fly away, best to work inside a bag so as not to lose it.

You can get in there with an A/C car but my hands and fingers are not huge.

[TonyZappone #2624]

I know the dashpad has to come out on a '58.  I have the same problem.  I carry a flashlight for the dashboard at nite

[Big Fins]

Back when I had my '59 SDV, the rheostat went bad on the headlight switch. I couldn't locate a new switch or even a decent used on at a reasonable cost. So, I just took a jumper wire from the headlight terminal and connected the other end to the dash light terminal. When the headlights were in, the dash lights were on. Problem solved.
How many people really just use parking lights today? They either have nothing on at all or every light in the house on.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Big Fins I'll use that as a consideration but since it appears Caddy Daddy has the replacement, I'll try that route first. 

[Big Fins]

Hey, if you have the $$$$ Caddy Daddy will take all you have to give. 

[tluke]

I did what Big Fins John did and soldered a wire from the curved metal tab that comes from the flat metal bar that goes from the second from the bottom connector  (the rear lights that are always on when any lights are turned on) to the front of the switch and through the switch body to the rheostat. It comes back in through the switch body on the other side and connects to the dash lights connector furthest on the left. So just solder a wire between the two inside the housing, thus bypassing the rheostat. Dash lights always on bright with parking lights or headlights lit.

If you haven't found it yet, I also included a picture of the other side of the switch where the release button you push in to remove the headlight switch shaft is located. Sometimes you have to play around with the shaft to get it in the right position to release.

[Big Fins]

Nice!    I never considered wiring it to the tail lights. '59 dash lights are the perfect brightness when on high. Bright enough to see every bulb and label and dim enough no to be obnoxious.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Thank you for the suggestion if its as easy as the manual makes it out to be then I'll just replace the rheostat and clean contacts.  The dash lights were very bright beforehand but then boom, nothing.  At least it seems like an easy fix.  59s are very easy to work on considering other contemporary counterparts of the same era.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Okay so the dash lights are back but dull.  I know a rheostat is in order but what would cause it to stop working, then start again?