A6 compressor reseal

[Cadillac1967Deville]

My 67 Cadillac had the AC compressor removed and placed in the trunk. I suppose it haven't been used for years.I'm not sure its usable but I bought a set with new o-rings and front seal.

The compressor turns, but not that easy. There was not much oil left and some light surface rust on the inside of the shell. The assembly with all the pistons etc looks nice and nothings feels loose or worn out. oil pump looks good and oil passages in the shaft is not clogged.

Has anybody here tried to rebuild an A6 compressor? It doesn't seem too hard and I found a video on YouTube from Century air that's very helpful.

My compressor has the old fittings on the back. I bought new rubber hoses so I new ones but that wont be a problem.

[Moody]

I've done it. Watched the same video and bought parts from Bob too. If you mess up a seal they are cheap anyway.

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

You started off with reseal and ended with rebuilt.  Resealing an A-6 is not difficult.  You mentioned rust and did not discuss any rust or corrosion within the cylinder heads block, wobble disc, pistons etc.  The compressor has to be essentially spotless BUT it needs to be fully lubricated when assembling it or it will be short lived.  If it turns over hard with the suction/discharge ports uncovered, there was probably a reason it was in the trunk.
Actually rebuilding an A-6 consists of fully dis-assembling the core and inspecting and measuring each component, This takes some special tools as shown in the FSM, and a bit more skill than just resealing it.
Regardless of the action, it is absolutely imperative to get the oil circulating by filling the compressor sump and turning over the compressor several dozen times to get the oil throughout the core and front seal before actually running and charging the system.
Greg Surfas

[Cadillac1967Deville]

You started off with reseal and ended with rebuilt.  Resealing an A-6 is not difficult.  You mentioned rust and did not discuss any rust or corrosion within the cylinder heads block, wobble disc, pistons etc.  The compressor has to be essentially spotless BUT it needs to be fully lubricated when assembling it or it will be short lived.  If it turns over hard with the suction/discharge ports uncovered, there was probably a reason it was in the trunk.
Actually rebuilding an A-6 consists of fully dis-assembling the core and inspecting and measuring each component, This takes some special tools as shown in the FSM, and a bit more skill than just resealing it.
Regardless of the action, it is absolutely imperative to get the oil circulating by filling the compressor sump and turning over the compressor several dozen times to get the oil throughout the core and front seal before actually running and charging the system.
Greg Surfas

Thanks!
As I wrote:
"the assembly with all the pistons etc looks nice and nothings feels loose or worn out. oil pump looks good and oil passages in the shaft is not clogged." No rust here at all. The surface rust on the inside of the shall was very light.

I try to reseal it. I hope I can get the oil circulating by turning the compressor. Shall I do this before I mount the new seal? Otherwise It could be hard to see if oil comes out of the front axle where the seal is.

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Install the shaft seal first. It needs to be oiled initially to prevent running dry and premature failure
Greg Surfas

[Cadillac1967Deville]

The A-6 compressor has a simple bu very effective (if there is enough oil in the system) lubrication system. As per the FSM, when installing the compressor in a new or just cleaned out system 5 ounces of oi are added to the compressor. They are added through the plug in the side of the compressor shell near the bottom sump. The sump is located within the shell of the compressor which is the high pressure side, all low pressure is conveyed from the suction port to the suction valves via channels through the "works". with the sump on the high pressure side, the high pressure helps feed the oil through the quill that (when the oil level is correct) extends down into the oil in the sump and into the gear driven pump which is inserted into the rear compressor head.the pressurized oil (higher pressure than the discharge pressure) is fed through passages to the moving parts and then the compressor seal where the oil itself forms the actual seal.
Oil is entrained in the discharge gas and flows with the refrigerant throughout the system, returning to the sump where a good part it falls out of the refrigeration stream into the sump of the compressor, only to repeat the cycle.
When there is a leak in the refrigeration system oil as well as refrigerant is lost, so unless it too is replaced when adding refrigerant you will eventually run the compressor so low on oil that it will destroy itself.
How do you add oil to a empty un-pressurized system? Through the suction side of the system you say,but no Grasshopper, adding oil through the suction port will just feed it directly into the cylinders where it tends to bend the discharge valves, rendering them un-servicable. There is a specific tool for adding oil that is essentially a 4-6 ounce cylinder with hose fittings on either end that oil is added to and then pressurized. then with the system off and the running pressure reduced, the oil is released into the (then lower pressure) system.Sounds like too much work. Sure beats changing out the compressor.
Greg Surfas

I found this in an old thread, very good to know!