'56 series 62 heater blower ducts

[JungleCadd]

Looking for a pair of the engine bay firewall steel heater ducts . Rusty and crusty will be just fine.

Cheers

[Roger Zimmermann]

I may have a pair, but I'm not sure. During winter time, I don't go often to my store room; if you don't get another offer, I will check it in about one week.

[dn010]

There are some on eBay if you can't find any here.

[Lexi]

Looking for a pair of the engine bay firewall steel heater ducts . Rusty and crusty will be just fine.

Cheers

Should have a box or two of that & related stuff. Probably can't get to it until the spring, if time is not a factor or you locate sooner. A picture of exactly what you need may help and assist in me pin pointing and perhaps not waiting until spring. Not 100% sure based on your description of the part you need. Clay/Lexi

[Roger Zimmermann]

Had to go to my store room today. I have both units; the motor is running when connected to a battery. $ 50.00 each plus the ride.
They got some dust over the year, before to install them, I would grase the motor's shafts as there is some drag by turning the fan by hand.

[dn010]

I am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.

[Roger Zimmermann]

I am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.

You may be right!
By the way, I still have a rusty one coming from my '56 Eldo. I could buy better parts at that time.

[JungleCadd]

I am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.

Yup. That's what I'm after. Thanks for looking. I'm looking for some rusty crusty ones as I need to crater on the corners to fit around a transact motor. I have the originals all nicely Powder coated bit won't fit lol

[JungleCadd]

You may be right!
By the way, I still have a rusty one coming from my '56 Eldo. I could buy better parts at that time.

Thanks for checking Roger. I just need the boxes/covers  but will need to modify physically so rusty is fine

[JungleCadd]

Should have a box or two of that & related stuff. Probably can't get to it until the spring, if time is not a factor or you locate sooner. A picture of exactly what you need may help and assist in me pin pointing and perhaps not waiting until spring. Not 100% sure based on your description of the part you need. Clay/Lexi

Clay. Just need the stuffing boxes. Like what the washer bottle bolts to. I need to cave in the corners to fit over my 425 transplant. The rust and crusty will be preferred.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Unfortunately, I dont' remember which side I have. Will have a look next time I'm in the store room...

[Cadman-iac]

  What you're looking to do is this then. Here's what mine looks like right now.





 The first one, (blue), is after I modified it to clear the 472 valve cover.

 The second picture shows the original (green) one next to the modified one highlighting the difference.

 I didn't want to modify the original one in case I, (or the next owner), decides to go back with the original engine.
 I'm trying not to make any changes that can't be reversed if I want to go with the 365 at a later date.

 Would love to see some pictures of your car. If you have any questions I'd be glad to help if I can, and if you're willing, can I ask you for advice if I run into a problem that you may have encountered already?
 I've been sidetracked by other problems for a few years, but hoping to get back on mine next year.
 Good luck with your project, sounds like it will be a lot of fun when finished.

 Rick

[Lexi]

Less certain that I have any of those blister-cowl units. Clay/Lexi

[Roger Zimmermann]

Went to the store room to bring the heater motors back and to take the air duct cover. At first glance, a bit rust; I suppose I had no intend to repair it if I could find solid ones.
You can have it for free, just the shipping may be costly; I have to check it.

[JungleCadd]

Cool! Thanks a lot Roger!! Your always so helpful & very much appreciated.

I'm amazed how quickly things get over here from your neck of the woods fairy priced ot seems.

Standing by cheers

Erik

[JungleCadd]

Hey Rick!

Cool. ExCtly! Nice work man. Thanks for sharing that. Did you ball peen that or? Looks like no torch either. I might have to go a tad higher up but I'm anxious to give ot a whack.

Rn I've got leaky gear box. I think most of it is the pitman seal fingers crossed. I've got 7os Saginaw hosed to the original steering gear. Do you have power steering going?

Glad to give any advice I can just give me a nudge.

[Cadman-iac]

  Wow, that's some wild looking door panel there.

Looks like you've got a great start on yours, mine isn't nearly as far along. I had to sideline it for a few years, but I'm dying to get back on it.

On my steering  I used the newer Saginaw pump that goes with the 472, much better pump and easier to mount.
I have to figure out what lines I'm going to use, the return line is easy, but the pressure line might be a little difficult.
I swapped the gearbox for one out of a '72 since the bolt pattern is the same. 1956 was the first year they used that bolt pattern, but the gearbox was 1 year only I believe. Another reason to swap it out.


This is the only picture I have of the gearbox in the car. The lines I have were just being mocked up to see what I'd need. Plus I'm going with a Hydro-boost, so the lines have to feed it as well.

How are you doing your gas pedal linkage? Are you using the original setup?


I went with a '69-'72 linkage and pedal on mine. It mounts easily and sits high enough to be comfortable on your foot, and it clears everything in the engine bay. And it makes it all Cadillac.

I noticed your valve covers, are they taller than the stock ones? They look great, I'd like to get some like that.
As for how I bent the airbox, I think I just used a body hammer. I honestly don't remember. I'd have to take another look at it to see if it jars my memory. But the car is all wrapped up in tarps right now to keep it safe from the weather.

What did you do for a radiator? Looks like you have a cross-flow in it. How did you fit it? What modifications did you have to do to the core support?

We need to get together and compare notes!
Cool looking car, you're doing a great job on it. Wish I could see it in person.

Rick

[JungleCadd]

Ah! I didn't realize they kept the same bolt pattern on to the 70's. That's good to know. The one year only stuff sucks on stuff like that. I have a similar box I got in the mail and was dubious but dragging on the follow up with supplier . 5691676 but Looks a lot like yours though.

I kept the gas pedal and just recently fabrimicated a bell crank of sorts using welding gusset tabs. It's pretty solid but not sure about the over all play but is semi adjustable.

I planted the radiator that came with the car. It came with block landed but no hook ups. You'll see I notched the frame to drop the rad in. Yanked the old rad frame out and fabbed an angle piece to land the hood latch frame and gravel pan to. It was fairly painless just had to chop up my powder coated gravel pan to make up for the drop. The cross members are just mocked up in structural steel rn 1-1/2 channel offset on the fenders with some square tube across. It latches up well and solid but will have fun with cleaning that up later,someday.

The cast covers are about 3,5" to the fins. What did you do for motor mounts?

So you're plumbing over to a hydro boost? I'm not super excited about the vacuum booster thinking about frame mount hydraulics and try to keep the brake pedal config.... still keep drums. Maybe disc's up front. Ibguess you can get hubs now that will keep the factory track width and still mount the kelsey hayes style wheels.  Thays a few pay checks away tho

[Cadman-iac]

  I had to repair the frame on mine where the previous owner had cut into each side for clearance for a cross-flow radiator.
I didn't like the looks of it and thought it would weaken the frame, so I welded in new pieces.


The rusty looking spots are the welds where I ground it smooth.


One thing that you should know about using a newer steering gearbox is that the original pitman arm, although it will fit onto the shaft, it does not clear the end of the box, and requires modification in order to use the new box.
I found this out the hard way. I needed to replace the stud on the arm anyway because it was worn, so I ended up cutting another one off about an inch longer than what I cut off of the one I was repairing, and to keep the steering geometry symmetrical I extended the idler arm as well.


I had to make my own motor mounts. I used the same mounting points on the engine, and I wanted to use the same location on the frame that the original one used. What I ended up with was this.


  I'm not sure if I'm happy with it yet, gotta think about it some more.
I used a rubber disc from a 55-57 Chevrolet motor mount on both sides of the frame. It's not easy to get the bottom pieces in place because of the tight space in the frame, as I'm sure you are familiar with.

 You can see my modified oil pan in the picture too. I started with an Eldorado pan, but it didn't clear the steering linkage, and I wasn't happy with the notch in the side that the factory put in it for cleaning the Eldorado differential.
 What I finally ended up doing was taking a regular 1977 rear sump pan and modifying it to fit.
 Using a MIG welder because I don't have a TIG, it was a bit tricky to make sure it didn't leak.

Rick

[JungleCadd]

Aw dang to good to be true. Thanks for the heads up! I'll keep that in mind when I get all the linkage freshened up. I guess there was a guy out in desert hot springs that did a rack/ pinion setup on 62's but ibthink he's long gone.

I think you can see my bucthered motor mounts they are a little unlikely unfortunately. Ibthink I'm sitting a little higher than you still not sure if I can get the pan out yet.
I tried the endoscope last night but was hard to make much out. Gonna try to wiggle it around this weekend. Not sure what pan I have I don't think eldo. Maybe 425 Deville? Have no idea.

Have you figured out the horn ring gasket ground isolation?
Also how did you mount that ground strap that bolts to the rag joint? Is that for ground continuity or just radio static ?