1950s Valve cover gasket question

[Daffer]

Im putting my valve covers back on my 1950 cadillac and was wondering if I should cut these tabs off the gasket? I've seen these on other cadillacs of different years but those covers had a notch in them for those tabs. Just want to check before I cut them
Thanks, Joshua

[Cadillac Jack 82]

These tabs should pop into place on your valve cover so unless you plan on gluing your gasket in place, leave them.

[Daffer]

These tabs should pop into place on your valve cover so unless you plan on gluing your gasket in place, leave them.

sadly there are no notchs for those tabs on my valve covers. that's why I assume it may be ok to cut them off

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Cut them off.   Not sure what years they put the notches in the valve covers, but I would think that the gaskets you have were designed for both types.

If you leave the tabs on, in a non-tab cover, then they will be hard to seat as the tabs will cause the gasket to possibly slip.

Bruce.

[Daffer]

Cut them off.   Not sure what years they put the notches in the valve covers, but I would think that the gaskets you have were designed for both types.

If you leave the tabs on, in a non-tab cover, then they will be hard to seat as the tabs will cause the gasket to possibly slip.

Bruce.

I appreciate it, it seamed obvious but I just didn't wanna screw them up and waste money. Thank You!

[Jay Friedman]

I just installed a new valve cover gasket on my '49, which has the same engine as a '50.  I cut those tabs off.  At some point later in the 50s the valve covers had notches in them to locate the gaskets with the tabs and, as another poster mentioned, the gaskets are made for both types of valve cover. 

The purpose of the notches locating the gaskets on the later valve covers is to make sure the gaskets, particularly the upper surface, stay on the perimeter of the valve covers and don't sag inward as you install the valve covers.  Since my valve covers are without the notches, when I do this job I stick 2 or 3 pins in the lower and upper outer perimeters of the gasket.  As I tighten down the valve cover, if necessary I pull on the pins to keep the gasket in place.  Once the cover is tightened down I check that that gaskets are correctly positioned along the perimeter of the valve cover with a small dental type mirror.  I then pull out the pins. 

Another option is to glue in the gaskets with Permatex or some other sealant.  I usually don't do this on valve cover gaskets for two reasons: 1. because I find it annoying to scrape off the old gaskets and the sealant when the gaskets get old and need replacement;
2. there is not much oil pressure on these gaskets, so tightening the valve cover screws without sealant usually is enough.  Don't make them too tight as you can distort the valve covers and cause leaks.

[Daffer]

I just installed a new valve cover gasket on my '49, which has the same engine as a '50.  I cut those tabs off.  At some point later in the 50s the valve covers had notches in them to locate the gaskets with the tabs and, as another poster mentioned, the gaskets are made for both types of valve cover. 

The purpose of the notches locating the gaskets on the later valve covers is to make sure the gaskets, particularly the upper surface, stay on the perimeter of the valve covers and don't sag inward as you install the valve covers.  Since my valve covers are without the notches, when I do this job I stick 2 or 3 pins in the lower and upper outer perimeters of the gasket.  As I tighten down the valve cover, if necessary I pull on the pins to keep the gasket in place.  Once the cover is tightened down I check that that gaskets are correctly positioned along the perimeter of the valve cover with a small dental type mirror.  I then pull out the pins. 

Another option is to glue in the gaskets with Permatex or some other sealant.  I usually don't do this on valve cover gaskets for two reasons: 1. because I find it annoying to scrape off the old gaskets and the sealant when the gaskets get old and need replacement;
2. there is not much oil pressure on these gaskets, so tightening the valve cover screws without sealant usually is enough.  Don't make them too tight as you can distort the valve covers and cause leaks.

thank you for the added info! how tight you think just hand tight with an added turn?

[tcom2027]

Use a 1/4" drive ratchet or a 3/8 held fairly close to the head. You will know when to bolts are tight. Check the covers to make sure the holes haven't been deformed by a previous owner/mechanic hasn't used a half inch impact on them deforming the radius of the holes. A little quality time with a hammer will correct any deformation you find.

#2 Non hardening Permatex on the covers is my choice of adhesives. A couple of dabs in the corners and along the top and bottom will do ya. You just want to keep the gasket in place

Or GaskaCinch, just because of the old timey label and the applicator attached to the cover.

[Jay Friedman]

Good advice from tcom2027. 

A good idea is to re-tighten the bolts after driving around a few miles since the heating up of the motor can loosen them a bit. 

[dadscad]

The factory torque setting for the valve cover bolts on my 63 is 28 inch pounds. Check your shop manual for the torque setting of your car. I use a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench to tighten the bolts down in at least 2 stages. I'll err on the low side and stop at 25 inch pounds.

[35-709]

Right.
I use an INCH-pound torque wrench and 40 INCH-pounds of torque on the valve cover bolts, then retighten to 40 inch- pounds again after driving a bit and letting the engine cool as Jay Friedman suggested.  Over tightening even a little can easily squeeze those older type valve cover gaskets out of position as also noted by Jay.  30 to 40 inch-pounds seems to be the general rule of thumb for valve cover gaskets, the correct number should be in your Cadillac shop manual.
IMO, anyone doing more than regular oil, filter, and lube on their car should have a good inch and foot-pound torque wrench in their tool box.

[Jay Friedman]

My '49 shop manual specifies 15 to 20 foot pounds for the valve cover bolts.  (It's called a "rocker arm cover" in the manual.) '50 must be the same.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The 1959 Shop Manual recommends 35 to 40 Inch Pounds.

Using 20 to 25 Foot Pounds will severely distort the cover, or break the 1/4" bolts.

Bruce.

[Jay Friedman]

thank you for the added info! how tight you think just hand tight with an added turn?

Although there are torque specs, I usually just do as Daffer suggests,"hand tight with an added turn". The 4 "bolts" holding the valve covers don't need to be overly tight as long as the cork gaskets are still not hardened by age.  Also, as several posters mentioned you don't want to distort the valve covers .