Any years should I crank my car over?

[Daffer]

just an overall question thought id get some opinions, Im waiting on the fabric rubber for my muffler hanger to get shipped so at the moment there is no muffler on my 1950 Cadillac. should I add in the fluids, oil and crank it over and start it? or should I wait for the muffler to be on? thanks Joshua
Oh also What's a timing light you guys may recommend thanks 

[Clewisiii]

I did my engine run off with all of my exhaust parts in place. But no hangers yet.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Joshua,

Personally, I wouldn't be attempting to crank over, or start a rebuilt engine until I was ready to actually drive it.

If you want to ensure the oil is everywhere, pull the Distributor and manually drive the Oil Pump with a Priming Tool, whilst turning the Crankshaft by hand, with the Spark Plugs out to make it easy, a half a turn at a time, for two revolutions to get the oil into each and every lifter.   The reason for the two revolutions is so that the Cam and Distributor Drive can be put back to where it was with relation to the No.1 Firing Order, to reinstall the Distributor.   Only one revolution, and the timing will be 180 Degrees out.   

Putting in oil is not a problem, but water is.

Before the engine is started, it is fully pre-lubricated with oil and grease during assembly, and being tempted to fill the coolant side of the engine, and let it sit long-term, could be opening up a can of worms, simply because the running of the engine will complete the sealing qualities of the gaskets.

Once the engine is started, the Cam and Lifters are fully run-in, at 2,500 RPM for 30 minutes, and then whilst everything is warm, go for the drive to bed the Rings to the Cylinder walls.   Once all this has been done, then the engine can be idled down, and can sit for weeks at a time.

Bruce.

[Daffer]

G'day Joshua,

Personally, I wouldn't be attempting to crank over, or start a rebuilt engine until I was ready to actually drive it.

If you want to ensure the oil is everywhere, pull the Distributor and manually drive the Oil Pump with a Priming Tool, whilst turning the Crankshaft by hand, with the Spark Plugs out to make it easy, a half a turn at a time, for two revolutions to get the oil into each and every lifter.   The reason for the two revolutions is so that the Cam and Distributor Drive can be put back to where it was with relation to the No.1 Firing Order, to reinstall the Distributor.   Only one revolution, and the timing will be 180 Degrees out.   

Putting in oil is not a problem, but water is.

Before the engine is started, it is fully pre-lubricated with oil and grease during assembly, and being tempted to fill the coolant side of the engine, and let it sit long-term, could be opening up a can of worms, simply because the running of the engine will complete the sealing qualities of the gaskets.

Wow thank you for the info definitely helos alot! This does leave me with 2 questions. 1 can I leave the Spark plug in that's behind the generator? And 2 could I start the engine without a muffler?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Wow thank you for the info definitely helos alot! This does leave me with 2 questions. 1 can I leave the Spark plug in that's behind the generator? And 2 could I start the engine without a muffler?

Yes, you can leave the Spark Plug in, but it will just make turning the engine over by hand just that little bit difficult.

As for starting the engine without a Muffler, that is up to you, and where you are, because there will be noise.   Remember race engines (Dragsters, no matter what class) always run without Mufflers.   You will just need a pair of ear muffs for everyone around.

Bruce.

[dn010]

There is also the potential for fire to come from the exhaust without a muffler in place. More common if the pipe ends closer to the engine but just another thing to beware of if you have any combustible material laying nearby. That said, I've run plenty of engines with no mufflers for one reason or another, and all engines survived just fine. But it will be LOUD.

[Lexi]

Good advice from Dan. Fire can belch out and set combustibles ablaze. Clay/Lexi

[Daffer]

Is a good way of priming the engine by doing it the starter method? @The Tassie Devil(le)
I ask because it seems to be the easiest way especially when the Distributor has a separate drive gear. If that method is ok, is checking the oil filter for oil a good way to see if I have oil pressure? Thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Joshua,

I do not recommend using the Starter Motor to turn the engine to prime the oiling system, simply because you are spinning the rotating and moving parts under load BEFORE the Oil Pump has had time to push the oil up to these moving parts.

Bearing Shells don't appreciate being rubbed in any dryish state prior to receiving oil at pressure.

Plus, as your car doesn't have a full-flow Oil Filter (These didn't come out till 1960) there is no way of knowing at what pressure it got the oil.

The Oil Pump Primer bypasses the Camshaft drive to the Distributor.   Hence the reason for turning the engine over exactly twice, so the Distributor can be reinstalled as close to originally intended.

Bruce.

[Daffer]

Joshua,

I do not recommend using the Starter Motor to turn the engine to prime the oiling system, simply because you are spinning the rotating and moving parts under load BEFORE the Oil Pump has had time to push the oil up to these moving parts.

Bearing Shells don't appreciate being rubbed in any dryish state prior to receiving oil at pressure.

Plus, as your car doesn't have a full-flow Oil Filter (These didn't come out till 1960) there is no way of knowing at what pressure it got the oil.

The Oil Pump Primer bypasses the Camshaft drive to the Distributor.  Hence the reason for turning the engine over exactly twice, so the Distributor can be reinstalled as close to originally intended.

Bruce.

Gotcha that makes sense. Now I dont mean to keep asking but how exactly does the primer work, the only way I see it is I obviously remove the Distributor then the drive gear only problem i dont know how ide be able to remove it through the Distributor hole.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The oil pump primer is a tool that replicates the bottom drive of the Distributor, and is sufficiently long enough to exit the area so that a drill or priming handle, like a speed brace can be fitted to the other end, and rotated in the correct direction to turn the pump.

I have attached a couple of pictures of what I made.   These are for Fords, Chevrolets and others.   The last one is for an Oldsmobile, which I made out of an old Distributor that I had laying around.   I machined off the Cam Drive gears, and trimmed the Distributor Housing so I could attach the brill.   Battery Drills are good for this as they are reversible, if the need arises.

With the Cadillac one I made, for a 390, I formed the flattened end to replicate the Oil Pump end, and then forced an old Socket onto the other end to fit the Speed Brace.

Not sure what the earlier pump drives look like, buy the end of the Distributor will show you.   I inserted the Roll Pin in the shaft to stop the shaft going too deep, and possibly pulling the drive from the pump if it was a loose piece.

Bruce.