Any years should I crank my car over?

[Daffer]

just an overall question thought id get some opinions, Im waiting on the fabric rubber for my muffler hanger to get shipped so at the moment there is no muffler on my 1950 Cadillac. should I add in the fluids, oil and crank it over and start it? or should I wait for the muffler to be on? thanks Joshua
Oh also What's a timing light you guys may recommend thanks 

[Clewisiii]

I did my engine run off with all of my exhaust parts in place. But no hangers yet.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Joshua,

Personally, I wouldn't be attempting to crank over, or start a rebuilt engine until I was ready to actually drive it.

If you want to ensure the oil is everywhere, pull the Distributor and manually drive the Oil Pump with a Priming Tool, whilst turning the Crankshaft by hand, with the Spark Plugs out to make it easy, a half a turn at a time, for two revolutions to get the oil into each and every lifter.   The reason for the two revolutions is so that the Cam and Distributor Drive can be put back to where it was with relation to the No.1 Firing Order, to reinstall the Distributor.   Only one revolution, and the timing will be 180 Degrees out.   

Putting in oil is not a problem, but water is.

Before the engine is started, it is fully pre-lubricated with oil and grease during assembly, and being tempted to fill the coolant side of the engine, and let it sit long-term, could be opening up a can of worms, simply because the running of the engine will complete the sealing qualities of the gaskets.

Once the engine is started, the Cam and Lifters are fully run-in, at 2,500 RPM for 30 minutes, and then whilst everything is warm, go for the drive to bed the Rings to the Cylinder walls.   Once all this has been done, then the engine can be idled down, and can sit for weeks at a time.

Bruce.

[Daffer]

G'day Joshua,

Personally, I wouldn't be attempting to crank over, or start a rebuilt engine until I was ready to actually drive it.

If you want to ensure the oil is everywhere, pull the Distributor and manually drive the Oil Pump with a Priming Tool, whilst turning the Crankshaft by hand, with the Spark Plugs out to make it easy, a half a turn at a time, for two revolutions to get the oil into each and every lifter.   The reason for the two revolutions is so that the Cam and Distributor Drive can be put back to where it was with relation to the No.1 Firing Order, to reinstall the Distributor.   Only one revolution, and the timing will be 180 Degrees out.   

Putting in oil is not a problem, but water is.

Before the engine is started, it is fully pre-lubricated with oil and grease during assembly, and being tempted to fill the coolant side of the engine, and let it sit long-term, could be opening up a can of worms, simply because the running of the engine will complete the sealing qualities of the gaskets.

Wow thank you for the info definitely helos alot! This does leave me with 2 questions. 1 can I leave the Spark plug in that's behind the generator? And 2 could I start the engine without a muffler?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Wow thank you for the info definitely helos alot! This does leave me with 2 questions. 1 can I leave the Spark plug in that's behind the generator? And 2 could I start the engine without a muffler?

Yes, you can leave the Spark Plug in, but it will just make turning the engine over by hand just that little bit difficult.

As for starting the engine without a Muffler, that is up to you, and where you are, because there will be noise.   Remember race engines (Dragsters, no matter what class) always run without Mufflers.   You will just need a pair of ear muffs for everyone around.

Bruce.