1980s What's the best source for suspension parts - 1981 Fleetwood Brougham

[chrisbutnut]

I need the following parts for my 81 Fleetwood, and was looking for recommendations on the best source for ideally OEM parts:

-front inner & outer tie rids
-front wheel bearings
-rear auto leveling shocks
-valve cover gasket (V-8-6-4)
-rear differential seal

Thanks in advance.

[Suntuned]

I would think you can get all of the parts @ a NAPA auto parts store and maybe the rear air shocks also. Last year i purchased what i needed for my 84 Fleetwood from NAPA .

[TJ Hopland]

Rock Auto has listings (and stock) for AC Delco tie rod ends and even the air shocks.  Personally I don't think the name means anything when it comes to old parts but at least the prices are inline with other offerings so I would actually consider them.  Diff gasket there are options but I would likely go with the Victor Reinz.   Regular parts stores probably have some offerings too but I doubt you would find that many AC options and if they do the price and wait time could be a lot higher but it is always worth checking. 

Valve covers could be a problem, actually multiple problems.  Back in their day they were known to have issues with the plastic becoming brittle and cracking and I can only imagine that that is an even bigger issue at this age.  Rock has a listing but one option says not for 8-6-4.  The other one doesn't have that note but when you look at the application it shows 68-85 so its the standard gasket.  I sort of remember the plastic covers being slightly different.  Basic shape and holes were right but I think there was a lip on the cover flange so you may have to do a bunch of trimming?   I'm also thinking that the originals were not the usual cork or rubber, something softer? and then there was also an upper gasket that I'm almost positive was more of a foam material where the plugs were for the solenoids. 

[TJ Hopland]

Oh and of anyone is confused about how the valve covers could be cracking, 80 and 81 they were some sort of 'plastic',  I don't recall what but not metal what ever it was.  80 you could use older ones with slight mods or aftermarket but 81 with the 8-6-4 they are quite unique due to the rocker solenoids that stick up. Most of the 80's I saw had metal covers because apparently leaks were such a problem they were replaced.  Not clear how many of those would have been dealer under warranty or if there was a official metal replacement or if that happened out of warranty and aftermarket.  The 80/81 rockers were different than 68-79 so I think you had to do something with the breather baffles to make the older covers work, and that's if its not an 8-6-4.  

I forgot to look at wheel bearings,  plenty of options there.  I'm seeing SKF and Timken which are/were the bigger old school brands as well as an AC Delco option.  Looks like the same deal with the seals, don't forget to order those even if you don't replace the bearings. Maybe even order a spare just in case one gets damaged during installation.  Pack a little grease into it before you hammer it in to keep the spring from popping out. 

Are your existing bearings and or races damaged?  You got to have some pretty high miles with some neglect and abuse to damage this style of bearing especially when the original quality was probably pretty good.  Even though Timken SKF are still good names I would not just replace the existing bearings unless you see signs of wear and or damage.

To clean them you can go all old school living dangerous backyard and pour a little of the old gas you drained out of the lawnmower into that old coffee mug you forgot to bring back to the kitchen. Wipe as much of the grease off with a rag then toss em in.  Let em soak a bit and use a stick or screwdriver to stir em around a bit.  Some brake clean and compressed air is ideal to do a final clean on em but you can also get away with banging them onto a rag and leaving them in the sun for a bit.  Races can be cleaned in the rotors just wipe em out with a rag and finish off with the brake clean.

If you are going to replace the bearings you would also usually replace the races which can be a pain and require a press, sometimes also some heating and cooling.  Sometimes they go OK other times they fight you.       

[chrisbutnut]

@TJ Hopland, thanks for your input.  The front wheels move when pushed on when the car is on a lift.  The car has 34K miles, and I had it inspected before I purchased.  The mechanic showed me the movement in the wheels and said the bearings need to be replaced.  I am going to have a local mechanic do the work, however I need to order the parts first.   I'm not familiar with races but will see what I can find. 

The valve covers are leaking slightly, which is why I was going to have the gaskets replaced.  What you stated about these engines worries me a bit as far as finding the right gasket. 

I was hoping that CaddyDaddy would have all of the parts, but it doesn't appear so.  I will check Rock Auto. 

Thanks again.

[tcom2027]

I'm amazed that you found a mechanic with X-Ray vision who can tell front wheel bearings are bad by shaking the wheels. Maybe try adjusting the bearings, then feel and listen for any roughness or noise and note the condition of the grease. Good idea to repack the wheel bearings,at that time, especially at thirty thousand miles. Bearings would be inspected at that time.

If bearings are needed Timken, FAG, SKS and NSK are good options. NAPA or other Major parts houses are good sourses.

THere are leaks and there are leaks. Is oil dripping on the manifolds and on the ground or is there just traces at the corners. If the latter, clean the areas, snug up the fasteners and watch it.

If you need gaskets my preference is Victors. I've used them on my '85 Seville, '96 Brougham and '02 Deville, all high time daily drivers and '89 Chevy  w/ a 454 pickup which were notorious for leaking VCGs. Same for all the old cars we have owned.

Unless there is dripping from the pinion seal and only a dusty accumulation of dirt from oil seepage, which is possible for a car of that age only having thirty plus thousand miles on it, it must have been idle a lot. The rubber sealing surface gets deformed slightly from the weight of the pinion and drive shaft on them and in many cases come to life with regular use as the seals go through heating and cooling cycles. If it's the cover plate (I don't remember if there is one one on your model) Get the gasket changed. Simple and inexpensive.

tony