1970s 1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible Top Operation

[ghjedi]

Hello,

I'm recently the proud owner of a 1975 Cadillac Eldorado convertible. I'm the second owner of this low mileage (less than 25K) car. The previous owner instructed me over the phone that after disengaging the top latches, they must then be locked in again before lowering the top, otherwise they will snap.  I unfortunately followed this advice before I acquired the owner's manual, which says the exact opposite, by the way. You can see where this is going and my 2 latches snapped/bent when first lowering the top. It was a beautiful sunny day and I got ahead of myself in using the top before I really had a feel for it. I felt confident in that I own a 64 convertible and those latches are very straightforward in comparison and seem near impossible to break no matter what position they are left in. The previous owner is a nice enough person, so I think it's a case of simply being mistaken, since he was so straightforward to deal with throughout this out-of-state purchase.

With all that said, I have removed the broken latches and will be installing this weekend the new latches I purchased.  I see a clear warning in the Owner's Manual about ensuring that the latches remain in the unlocked, inward position while lowering the top, which makes sense. I included a photo of the new latch in that very position for reference.  Just to triple confirm with a seasoned 1975 convertible owner, I would very much appreciate confirmation of this.  I am concerned about breaking another set of latches and starting to damage the top frame.  This car is amazing (see 2nd photo) and I look forward to enjoying worry-free top operation soon!

[Big Fins]

When opening the top, the latches MUST be in the UNLOCKED position. Failure to do this can lead to broken latches, (not cheap if you can find them) and a broken rear glass window.

Congrats on the car. Pretty.

If you are handy with tools, I can give you a few tips to keep that top operating smoothly. I'm going to dig in my files and see if I saved the pictures of what to look for when operating the top as far as the retraction assembly goes. The frame is very heavy and will cause heavy wear in the pivoting joints of the mechanism if not properly lubricated and kept tight.

[TJ Hopland]

Yep just like the manual says and unlike just about every other convertible these have to be unlocked.  It seems very strange that the previous owner made a point to give you the wrong info.  I could see them not saying anything possibly because they didn't know but the fact that they made a point to give you the wrong info is odd.  Did they have many cars?

Other tip is make sure there is nothing on the upper deck of the trunk.  That is the area where the top and most critically the glass settles in.  If there is something up there preventing the glass from settling into its position it will break.

You are also in for a car that is really sensitive to the wheel balance and ideally requires the now very hard to find CAX style weights for best results.  Stick on weights in theory can work but I think the issue is the modern machines (and techs) are not expecting the unique setup so it leads them astray when telling them where to place the weights so I think they often get frustrated and sort of give up.

Valve stems are unique too.  They are metal so they don't just completely rot out and fall off but they have a rubber sealing washer that will fail with age.  Occasionally they also seem to suffer from somehow internally clogging up.  I always try to keep a set on hand and at least one in the glove box for emergency repairs.  When you install one you also need to carefully check that it clears the brake caliper.   Had one one time that rubbed a bit and it fairly quickly rubbed through. 

[ghjedi]

When opening the top, the latches MUST be in the UNLOCKED position. Failure to do this can lead to broken latches, (not cheap if you can find them) and a broken rear glass window.

Congrats on the car. Pretty.

If you are handy with tools, I can give you a few tips to keep that top operating smoothly. I'm going to dig in my files and see if I saved the pictures of what to look for when operating the top as far as the retraction assembly goes. The frame is very heavy and will cause heavy wear in the pivoting joints of the mechanism if not properly lubricated and kept tight.

Thank you for confirming and yes, I found this out the very hard way on my maiden drive with the car  
I also appreciate any tips you have on keeping the pivot joints lubricated- thank you!

[ghjedi]

Yep just like the manual says and unlike just about every other convertible these have to be unlocked.  It seems very strange that the previous owner made a point to give you the wrong info.  I could see them not saying anything possibly because they didn't know but the fact that they made a point to give you the wrong info is odd.  Did they have many cars?

Other tip is make sure there is nothing on the upper deck of the trunk.  That is the area where the top and most critically the glass settles in.  If there is something up there preventing the glass from settling into its position it will break.

You are also in for a car that is really sensitive to the wheel balance and ideally requires the now very hard to find CAX style weights for best results.  Stick on weights in theory can work but I think the issue is the modern machines (and techs) are not expecting the unique setup so it leads them astray when telling them where to place the weights so I think they often get frustrated and sort of give up.

Valve stems are unique too.  They are metal so they don't just completely rot out and fall off but they have a rubber sealing washer that will fail with age.  Occasionally they also seem to suffer from somehow internally clogging up.  I always try to keep a set on hand and at least one in the glove box for emergency repairs.  When you install one you also need to carefully check that it clears the brake caliper.   Had one one time that rubbed a bit and it fairly quickly rubbed through. 

This car was his mother's car and I got the sense he didn't drive it much at all, which explains the super low mileage for its age.  It's also possible, though I'd like to say highly improbable, that I heard him incorrectly and reversed it in my little pea brain.  I'd like to think not, but I can't rule it out 100%. Regardless, I removed the broken latches and will be installing the new ones, a little wiser this time.  I appreciate your tip on keeping the upper deck trunk area clear.

[TJ Hopland]

Maybe he remembers his mom saying something about the latches or perhaps them getting broken at some point in the last 50 years but he never operated it himself so just had it wrong.  Do you recall them being bent when you got it?   I have seen that on several of these cars.  You may notice the difference when you get the new ones installed.  When they are not damaged its actually a fairly smooth transition between the arm and the latch handle.

How hard were they to find and how expensive?  I'm not planning on breaking mine anytime soon but was just curious.  I think there was a period where someone was reproducing them, not sure if this is still the case or not.  Also could be a difference between the original ones and the repros and that is why some bend and some break.   

[Big Fins]

The school of hard knocks is the best one. I remember when I was told not to do something, that I might get hurt, I'd do it anyway. After I got hurt and mended, Mom or Dad would just look at me and say, "I guess you won't be doing that again."

If you got a 25k car as a gift or for a low settlement price, you are way ahead. Lots of questions from me.

How long have you had it?

Have the fillers been replaced? The rears look like they might have been.

Close to loaded?

Are the tires originals and how long has it been since it was stored? I ask because the tire store tire changers didn't know the tires had to be removed from the inside and the tire machines of those days would bend the rims leaving the owners to chase vibrations forever.

Raise the top halfway. Anywhere there is a pivot joint, use some dry graphite lube. Put a towel behind the spray stream to protect the top. There are cables driving the transmissions that need to be cleaned well and lubed with LubriPlate or equivalent.

The main transmission gear needs to be cleaned and lubed.
All mechanism attaching bolts need to be checked for tightness.
There is the main load bearing pivot bolt that has a Castle nut on the end. Excessive force will allow that Cotter pin in the Castle nut to shear. Going back to lack of lubrication!. I caught it by 2 threads before I would have needed some serious muscle help. Checking all of the mounting bolts made a huge difference in how the top operated and folded the material.

These cars are not lifetime lubed, especially if it just sat.

Receipts for services?

[Big Fins]

Maybe he remembers his mom saying something about the latches or perhaps them getting broken at some point in the last 50 years but he never operated it himself so just had it wrong.  Do you recall them being bent when you got it?   I have seen that on several of these cars.  You may notice the difference when you get the new ones installed.  When they are not damaged its actually a fairly smooth transition between the arm and the latch handle.

How hard were they to find and how expensive?  I'm not planning on breaking mine anytime soon but was just curious.  I think there was a period where someone was reproducing them, not sure if this is still the case or not.  Also could be a difference between the original ones and the repros and that is why some bend and some break.   

I lost the spring in an original one by snapping it instead of opening it gently. It would operate but I was always afraid it would fall into the closed position when the top was retracted and disaster would happen. I was able to purchase an original from a CLC member about 5 years back for $75. Sadly, he is no longer with us. Charles was THEE part man to call.

[ghjedi]

Maybe he remembers his mom saying something about the latches or perhaps them getting broken at some point in the last 50 years but he never operated it himself so just had it wrong.  Do you recall them being bent when you got it?   I have seen that on several of these cars.  You may notice the difference when you get the new ones installed.  When they are not damaged its actually a fairly smooth transition between the arm and the latch handle.

How hard were they to find and how expensive?  I'm not planning on breaking mine anytime soon but was just curious.  I think there was a period where someone was reproducing them, not sure if this is still the case or not.  Also could be a difference between the original ones and the repros and that is why some bend and some break.   

I think that's exactly what happened as the previous owner mentioned the latches broke on him and he repalced them.  I did find a new set on ebay for $210 and have them in hand (see my photo from my first post on this thread). I was disappointed to see they came from China and I sure hope they are decent replacements.  They do look exactly like the twisted/broken ones I took off the car, but I'll find out this weekend!  My ebay search was "Convertible Top Latch Left Hand LH+Right Hand RH for Cadillac Eldorado 1971-1976"

[ghjedi]

The school of hard knocks is the best one. I remember when I was told not to do something, that I might get hurt, I'd do it anyway. After I got hurt and mended, Mom or Dad would just look at me and say, "I guess you won't be doing that again."

If you got a 25k car as a gift or for a low settlement price, you are way ahead. Lots of questions from me.

How long have you had it?

Have the fillers been replaced? The rears look like they might have been.

Close to loaded?

Are the tires originals and how long has it been since it was stored? I ask because the tire store tire changers didn't know the tires had to be removed from the inside and the tire machines of those days would bend the rims leaving the owners to chase vibrations forever.

Raise the top halfway. Anywhere there is a pivot joint, use some dry graphite lube. Put a towel behind the spray stream to protect the top. There are cables driving the transmissions that need to be cleaned well and lubed with LubriPlate or equivalent.

The main transmission gear needs to be cleaned and lubed.
All mechanism attaching bolts need to be checked for tightness.
There is the main load bearing pivot bolt that has a Castle nut on the end. Excessive force will allow that Cotter pin in the Castle nut to shear. Going back to lack of lubrication!. I caught it by 2 threads before I would have needed some serious muscle help. Checking all of the mounting bolts made a huge difference in how the top operated and folded the material.

These cars are not lifetime lubed, especially if it just sat.

Receipts for services?

I can answer some of these questions-- I have owned this car for about 5 weeks now.  I know there was roughly $17K put into restoring the car, after it sat for a bit.  It does runs great under load, but the idle circuit has some issues that I'll look at this weekend.  The car is pretty loaded in terms of options.  The 6-way seat works, the windows all work and the power top and antenna too.  The AM/FM/8-Track radio does not, but the glove box did have 4 8-tracks included inside!  I believe the tires are less than 5 years old, but I will certainly double check their age before any serious drives.  My trusted mechanic also checked it over and the car is mechanically very sound and no rust.
 
I did notice that the rear bench seat only has 1 center seat belt, but none on the left or right.  I have not removed the rear seat to check if the belts are pushed down or just non-existant. I know my '64 convertible had no rear seat belts, which I addressed as a matter of safety, though not factory correct.  I thought seat belts were mandatory after '66 and perhaps the center seat belt met that standard, but not sure.  Any clarification on that is much appreciated.  My experience with Caddies is 1941, 1949, 1960, and 1964, so 1975 is new to me.

[TJ Hopland]

The seat belts should be there.     

Some of the 75's had a one year only carb that had 2 extra jets so 6 total.  One of the jets was for altitude compensation and that was an option for many years but the unique on was I think called a part throttle.  The part throttle one was pretty similar to the main jets.  I had heard that they were not the most reliable and easy to damage. 

My low mile 75 had one and I may have been the first one in that carb.  It was fun, I finally got to use one of the gaskets and some other parts that always came in the kits but never saw a carb they fit before. That car was stock down to the original cat and somehow got close to 20 mpg, no idea how it did it being basically the same car as the 73 I had which doesn't even get that going down hill.   

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Replacement latches are available from Hydro-E-Lectric for $132.00 each.

I have reconditioned my own, and got a couple of spares when I was in USA in 2011, and reconditioned them myself.  When I purchased my '72 in 2007, I also purchased a rusted out '71 for parts, and shipped everything back home in 2008.

Bruce.

PS.  If all else fails, read the instructions.  But in these cases with the tops, it is always too late.

PPS.   With regards to your seat belts, does your car have the Shoulder Belts for the front driver and passenger positions?

[ghjedi]

Hello Bruce,

My car does not have the shoulder belts, just the lap belts.  I spent yesterday trying to install the new latches with partial success.  The 2 large bolts are very difficult to attach with the top material on, of course.  I have one side nearly done, just need to finish the other, hopefully today.

[TJ Hopland]

I'm not sure which bolts you are working on but have you tried accessing it with the top in different positions?  Maybe there is a position that things fold a bit and gives a bit more access?

[ghjedi]

I'm not sure which bolts you are working on but have you tried accessing it with the top in different positions?  Maybe there is a position that things fold a bit and gives a bit more access?

Great suggestion and that's exactly what I did to get at the bolts enough to properly tighten them. The job is done and the top tightens down nicely now!