My first Caddy!

[gregm]

I found my (dream) 1968 Eldo off an epay listing last week, cut a deal and she is mine!. The seller was nice enough to offer to bring her half way from MI to Pittsburgh for me to pick up. So I hooked up the trailer on Sunday in anticipation of pick up on Monday.

I arrived after nearly 7 hours across the (hilly) Commonwealth of PA to find my prize waiting for me.

This car is a 55K mile time capsule...probably the nicest original paint car I have ever seen.
I loaded her up for the drive home.


It took me 51 years to own my first Caddy...I have been smitten with this car since I wore the wheels off my redline HotWheel as a kid. I always thought it a beautifullly designed car without a bad angle. A timeless design that still looks great 45 years later...

And the man largely responsible, head of styling, Bill Mitchell, has his fingerprints all over this car. So the irony in the name of the dealership logo should not be lost on me alone.

I set out to take my first good look at the car last nite. It is largeley a 55K mile time capsule. l have never owned an original paint car so, to me, the subtle details are impressive... like the door jambs...

No overspray on jambs, wire harness or tire pressure decal (silly place to put it?)

Never been in an accident so no body shop residue from filler or wet sanding...

Beautiful seams and factory welds...really so nice...
I had seen one photo of the trunk and it looked like this so could not tell condition...

Well, well,  well what have we here? Why are these in trunk?

The carpet is so nice in the car...

...and these mats cover it all...that a lot of vinyl! I am  not sure how I feel about them...anyway, now with the trunk empty...

It's all there and while not an expert that does appear to be an original dual stripe spare that has never been on the ground...
   
Lots of original decals everywhere...




There are some things that need attention and will perform some passive restoration work with a goal toward preservation. A solid cleaning, detailing and reconditoning of paint and leather is in order. And those dirty seatbelts? Damn...
   

[Chris Conklin]

You scored BIG TIME on those vinyl mats in the trunk! I don't believe they are being reproduced. Learn to like them.

[gregm]

You scored BIG TIME on those vinyl mats in the trunk! I don't believe they are being reproduced. Learn to like them.

They are growing on me already! A good cleaning and reconditioning with, of all things, a spray on tire foam and will be as good as new. You can rub that foam in and they get nice and soft and dry without the oily "armor all" residue.

This was also in trunk:


Anyone know where this goes?

[Andrew Armitage]

Beautiful find!

[Davidinhartford]

This was also in trunk:


Anyone know where this goes?

The mats are a great find!    They are not being reproduced for the Eldos and are impossible to find in good shape on ebay.

I'll try that trick with the tire foam on my mats.

That black rubber shield goes next to the radiator as a splash shield I believe.

oh and yes, as you may have seen/read on my restoration thread, that is the original spare tire in your car.    Goodyear dual stripes were OEM equipment in 68.

[Jeff Wilk]

Congratulations!!  Great find.  How did you come across it?

[gregm]

I think I need to consolidate the threads on my Eldo questions into this one thread.

First problem: I am trying to fix my drivers headight door, which keeps dropping. Someone replaced the hoses and they are too big.

Should the hoses have a clamp on them of any type at the reducers and "T"s?

I need new lines...correct sizes with red, greenand yellow stripes sold by the foot...anyone know who may sell them?

I may try used originals if I can find them.

I need an actuator also...does anyone sell them new or rebuilt or do I need to find them used?     

[Jeff Wilk]

Try usapartssupply.com

[gregm]

The mats are a great find!    They are not being reproduced for the Eldos and are impossible to find in good shape on ebay.
I'll try that trick with the tire foam on my mats. That black rubber shield goes next to the radiator as a splash shield I believe.
oh and yes, as you may have seen/read on my restoration thread, that is the original spare tire in your car.    Goodyear dual stripes were OEM equipment in 68.

Thanks Dave, can you post photos of all the vacuum lines from the firewall forward for the hideaway headlights including the vacuum lines to the rear of the motor? Mine have beenmessed with and I want to be sure they are correct.

[Davidinhartford]

Try usapartssupply.com

Better yet,  research the Camaro hide-away head lamp repairs.   The Camaro guys have already been servicing these systems.  They have replacement servos and I'll bet they have a source for the vacuum lines.

Here is a link for you!    http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-headlight-door-vacuum-hose-kit-rally-sport-rs-1968.html

Plus more parts here: http://www.rickscamaros.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=vacuum+headlight&x=30&y=6

[66 Eldo]

First. VERY NICE CAR.

Here are some thoughts on polishing with a buffer.

There are many types of polishers some that should not be used by amateurs. It sounds like Brian was talking about a rotary polisher that he used on his '70 which I would not use if if you have never used one. They require practice.  A rotary is your most powerful polisher and a wool pad your most aggressive pad. This is a very powerful combination that can do a lot of damage in the wrong hands. In fact, there are many "professionals" that use rotary polishers and they end up with swirls and "holograms" (hazy buffing trails). 

The rule of thumb when doing paint correction, (removal of surface scratches and defects) is start with the least aggressive products and tools and and work your way up in aggressiveness up until you achieve the results you want. Work one small 2'x2' area.  If you like the results then go with that. If not, go to a more aggressive pad or compound or both. Proper paint correction is a three step process (compound, polish and wax) and a car that size is an all day job.  If you are going to buff it by hand, the suggestion to use a cleaner wax is a good one. Meguiar's makes a good one that is a liquid and Mother's makes a soft paste. They both go by the name of Cleaner Wax.  These products are a compound, polish and wax or "all in one" product. A true three step process will give the best results, but you probably have other things to do on the car so I would do the cleaner wax route to save time. Plus you will be polishing the car more than once this next year.  Clay the surface first as this makes a BIG difference in the polishing process and the final results.

Also,  Meguiars No. 7 Mirror Glaze is an Old School product designed for lacquer and enamel paints. A lot of guys in the industry use it on old original finishes preferring it over some of the newer Hi-Tech products.

If you decide you want to do a polish with a machine, consider using a DA/ dual action polisher. They rotate AND oscillate. They can do no damage in the wrong hands even the ones that are forced rotation and do not stop (Flex is a good one) In fact, DA polishers are the proper way to polish a car after a rotary is used as a final step to clean up any trails or marks and there are always some.

I wouldn't use a orbital buffer. In the detailing industry they are referred to as doorstops. They are too weak and you can do much better by hand.

Regarding paint gauges, The magnetic gauges are fine for our cars and very accurate. At $60 they are a cheap tool. I have used them for over 20 years and they work fine. I checked mine against my electronic one and it is within 1 mil. However, the electronic ones are great. I purchased one a Q-Nix Handy made in Germany for $395.00. Worth every penny because it will also check aluminum panels and I need that feature. The next closest paint gauge with ferrous and non-ferrous capabilities is the Velcometer for $800.   

Below are links to the paint meters I mentioned.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/progauge-ii-magnetic-paint-thickness-gauge-p-10805.aspx

http://www.qnix-handy.com/qnix_handy_automation_car_auction_automotive_coating_thickness_gauge/quanix_paint_meter.html

Here is a link to AutoGeek.net and their technical page which has great videos and info on DA polishers and detailing products.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

Hope this information helps you to make your car look great and preserve its originality.

[Glen]

Gregory, are you going to restore your car for show?    Are you going for the full 100 points?  If so then finding the vacuum hoses with the right color strip might be important.  But if not then you can use the regular black vacuum hose available at any auto parts store.  You may want to temporarily put in the common hoses to get the system working properly. 

As I said in the other thread those Camaro actuators are different from the Eldorado actuators.  The difference is in the end of the shaft.  The Eldo shaft has a ¼ - 20 thread on it.  I don’t remember what the Camaro has but it is not the same.  I think the clevis is pinned on the shaft.  If someone has a way to modify the Camaro shafts I would like to hear it.  About 10 years ago I was looking at one a coworker had and I did not see a simple way to adapt it. 

[Jeff Wilk]

Greg, go to the link i gave below for USA.  They have the color coded vac hoses and lots more. Also go to OPGI.com



Jeff.

[76eldo]

That's a great car.  66Eldo gave you good advice on the paint.
When I did my car I used a very mild compound to "correct" the paint.
I had some ugly painted on pinstripes that I also compounded off very carefully.
The big thing is to take your time.

Since your car is so original I would suggest going over it and correct any inaccurate things like clamps and maybe clean or replace decals under the hood and if looking to have the car judged at a grand national, look into entering it into the preservation class and the primary division.

My car has a few flaws and a ding or two but it received a Past President's preservation award at the Boston GN this year. Only got a third in class but that's to be expected on an all original car in a restoration class.

Keep the car as original as possible. It's a real gem!

Brian

[gregm]

Thanks for all the sage advise on buffing. I have a very good variable speed buffer but am not sure I am going that route. I believe in taking the most conservative route and to see how it looks first, and that is the non abrasive route.

So tomorrow its suppose to be almost 60...awesome...I can not do anything without a thorough wash with soap and water...the car has been sitting and it quite dusty...a good cleaning is in order followed by a hand polish...I am  not sure it will all get done tomorrow but if the car is clean I can polish her during the week. If not happy I will then consider alternatives.

As for judging, I have no immediate plans; just anal retentive and I like 'em original. I would actually like to find a nice original of vacuum lines that I can recondition as it would be consistent with everything else under hood. The set US Parts has is for HVAC system and not lights. I checked OPG website and did not see any.

I would consider the Camaro vacuum sets or Corvette, as 68s have a HUGE set and include red, green and yellow striped but how do I know what size vacuum line I need?

Which brings me to an important question: can anyone with original vacuum lines check their car and advise if any type of a clamp is use at the reducers or "T" s in the vacuum system?  I posted photos of mine and, while I know screw type clamps would not have been used, were the old style clamp you pinch with pliers used from the factory?

[Glen]

Vacuum hoses did not use any clamps.  The hose should be a tight fit and the vacuum makes it tighter.     

[gregm]

Vacuum hoses did not use any clamps.  The hose should be a tight fit and the vacuum makes it tighter.

Thank you.

As anticipated the weather was mild which allowed me to spend a little time with the car today. The first thing I did was disconnect the actuator on drivers side and tie the door shut...I can't even look at her with one up and one down...such a formidable front end...

In addition to washing the car I also wiped down the dusty engine bay...someone had to repaint the top of that motor..that cant be 45 year old paint...   

I noticed also that once wiped off my inner wheel wells were quite glossy...I am used to a semi gloss on GM products...did Caddy paint them a glossier black?
After the wash the day presented a nice fall photo opp...

I have to get tires before I can drive her so this was about all I could do...

Put my old blue and gold NYS plates on...just like I remember them...


Observation: the longest hood I have ever seen on any automobile. It looks like a football field in length when staring out over that dashboard.

Question: I do not see an antenna switch; is it activated by turning on the radio?  If so, mine is not working...damn...put that on the list...

Another question: the brakes feel different on this car than other GM products I have driven. For one, the pedal seems to actually firm and rise when you shut the car off. Is that normal?

[Glen]

The antenna is manually operated power.  By that I mean you have to operate it with a switch.  The switch is the tuning knob on the radio.  You press it in to raise the antenna and pull it out to lower it. 

[Davidinhartford]

Greg  the car looks great!

And if you are going to get new tires anyways......     

[gregm]

Greg  the car looks great! And if you are going to get new tires anyways......     

I am in crisis over tires...I am usually big on bias plys and love them because the sidewall profile is so different over radials and they scream OEM. But the 900 x 15 that are sold don't really have a bias ply sidewall profile... and the dual stripes are not correct...I read your thread and I know they will make them up but really don't want to spend a grand on tires, especially since they just look like a radial anyway...the Hankocks are $440 for the set balanced and installed...

How about the brakes? The pedal is high and rock hard until you start the car and the pedal noticabley drops and gets softer.  Then when you shut it down it raises and gets rock hard again. I have never noticed that on any other GM product with power disc brakes.