1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

The rear spring supports were continued by adding the pre-drilled flange on which the rear bumper will be attached and the flange on the side for the last cross member. I'm now fitting the bearing for the shackles.

[35-709]

For cutting rivets, you might find this tool from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty to be handy.  Shipping and import duties might make it too expensive, I don't know.  There is one poor review, but I have owned one for over 40 years and it has always worked well for me, a little practice in its use might be in order.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/12-00200.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlevXoPWc6QIVBgiICR2P1gGPEAQYASABEgJbSfD_BwE

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for the link, but my rivets are much smaller than the minimum diameter of 3/32": the shafts re 1 mm (0.04")!

[35-709]

   I shoulda known!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The supports for the rear springs and bumper are now done. These small parts are indeed an assembly by silver soldering of 8 distinct parts. The last to be added were the 3 ribs near the bearing. They were soldered once at the time and each time most of the soldering became liquid. Thank to the properties of the silver solder, nothing was shifted. Of course, soldering the various parts cannot be done with a rod but with the paste.
Now, I can play with the rivets!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last few days, I "installed" about 40 rivets. Finally, I used the method from Bruce to shorten the rivets, doing 9 each time. 2 rivets were lost when they escape from the tweezers, not to be found! I noticed that a too long rivet is more detrimental than a shorter one. Riveting at the flange is also possible with the appropriate "emboss". The rivets have an head a bit larger than what they should; the rivet is therefore inserted from the inside of the channel; what will be mostly visible has now a correct diameter.

I will now begin the fifth and last cross member It's shape is not too difficult but it will not be done in one piece as I cannot stamp it: it would require a very large tool, it makes no sense for just one part.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last cross-member is similar to the rear support for the suspension: difficult to measure, and far from easy to fabricate. When I had draw the profile with the main dimensions, I had a long time to decide which way to begin.
A picture from the original element is attached to the report; it's looking so easy to do! There was already some rationalization at that time: the last cross-member had a provision to attach a spare wheel at the back, or a luggage carrier, depending of the body. It has also a single bracket in the middle to attach the fuel tank: the cross-member #4 has the two other brackets for the tank.

I'm also adding a picture from my part, it's temporarily attached by screws to the frame. This part is indeed an assembly from two elements, silver soldered. It's easy to understand that the cross-member is not yet ready.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The fifth cross member is almost ready; it's not perfect in every aspect, but it reflects the design of the original part. Why almost ready? I have to add and riveting the central support for the gas tank. Next to that, there is one bracket at each chassis end which will get riveted to that fifth cross member. I don't have the exact dimensions for the tank bracket; it will be more or less a guess, allowing shaping the tank "between" the front and rear supports.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The rear tank support is now completed, riveted to the cross member. Now, I will do the small brackets connecting the lower frame rail to the cross member. A picture from Johan is showing it.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The small side brackets are now done. I had to do them with 2 parts assembled by silver soldering. For the moment, all is attached to the side rails with screws. When I will assemble definitively the cross members to the rails, the 5th cross member will be attached first, riveted, and then the small brackets will be added and riveted. A different way of assembly would prevent to insert rivets at 4 places.
I'm going now to the 4th cross member, a simple stamped part just there to support the exhaust tubes and gas tank as I doubt it can add much stability to the frame.

[dadscad]

Roger, absolutely amazing craftsmanship.  Just jaw dropping, seeing the functional details of all your scale model cars. The detailed explanation of the steps to replicate the individual parts is truly fascinating to follow. Thank you for your generosity to share your craft with us.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks David! It seems that my goal to entertain people is attained!  Just adding pictures without explanation would reduce the interest to follow the construction.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The 4th cross member is ready. I could do it in one piece, taking care to not forget the cutout for the rear axle, getting that way enough space between the differential and the cross member.
Some remarks about that element: the large elements riveted at both ends of the cross member are the supports for the exhaust tubes. Yes, they are rigidly attached to the frame, which was probably usual at that time. The smaller brackets are the ones to attach the fuel tank. I noticed from the pictures that the brackets are indeed done with two pieces of steel. They were probably spot welded together to facilitate the installation. Was it a measure to avoid a sudden dangerous situation in case a bracket made with just one thicker piece of steel would break?

What is the continuation? Well, logically I would do the third cross member, but I could do the first one which is rather complicated. Which one would you see now? I'm adding pictures from the first and from the third cross member.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The construction method of making the exhaust brackets with two pieces of steel laminated together would be done for both strength, plus, if the steel used was spring steel, then it would be a perfect flexible mounting.   Rubber could create a weak spot?

I have a couple of horns that are mounted using a pair of strips of thin steel, which is spring steel, and they perfectly isolate the horns and mount them so they don't break.

Love the way that manufacturers press multiple shapes into metal to increase the strength.   Beauty that is hardly ever seen, apart from the pedestrians when they are being run over.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Bruce for the explanation which seems logical. As I just have pictures, I cannot check if the supports are made with spring steel. I did mines with 2 pieces of 0.3mm soft brass soft soldered together.
Do have the pedestrian really the time to see the various details from the frame/underbody when they are run over?

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I wanted to let some time for the people decide if I should do now the first or the third cross member, I was not inactive: I did the small reinforcements for the rubber bumper over the rear axle and the one for the shock absorbers which are the lever type of course.
From the 4 forums I'm publishing this build, only 3 people told me what they would like to see, one for the front crossmember and two for the third one. therefore, the third one is now in the work.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Roger,

Far be it from any of us telling you what to do next.

I couldn't imagine Pablo Picasso or Leonardo DaVinci requesting assistance in getting the next task done, so, as you are the Model-Master, I would humbly decline from offering suggestions to another Master.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Bruce! I'm not in the same level like those two you cited! I did the play sometimes with the Mark II construction, asking people if they would prefer to see the trunk lid or the front fender, for example. Usually, there were 5 to 8 answers and the people were happy to ave some input! Anyway, all the cross members will be done and which one is first or last has no importance. By the way, I only ask when the choice is not depending from something else. For example, you just could not ask for the rear spring supports for the front suspension as these are installed on the side of the first cross member.

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Roger,

I agree with Bruce. You're the master, so you should chose which part of the canvas you want to paint next. I just marlvel at watching you work.

Just "keep on keepin' on"......

[Roger Zimmermann]

OK, I understand your concern. I will never ask again!
That third cross member seems easy to do, but it has also his difficulties. Fon once, I did a scale drawing, scale 1:6 to understand the upper stamping. When the drawing was more or less similar to the various pictures, I continue that project with the die set for the upper end stampings. A good picture from an original frame will avoid tedious explanation. Than the picture of my drawing and the die set at the left (I did only the half to simplify), the part as stamped, but not yet ready and a stamped sample.
I'm still unsure how to do the lower part...