Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

[Clewisiii]

I finally got a longer chisel for my air hammer. I will be back to bodywork this weekend.

Another screenshot picture since the forum would not let me add a photo from my phone. I hate having to do a screenshot then crop out the phone screen border.

[Clewisiii]

I hit this area with my spot blaster. I will go another round with that. I am still trying to decide how to cut in around this rocker area.

I have two sheets of 18 gauge patch panel steel on order for next week. Hopefully I can do whatever I am going to do with this corner in the next three weeks.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The only way is piece by piece, after you have removed all the rotten areas.

One of the troubles with opening up areas like this, one fonds that one has to go deeper and further to get that last piece replaced.

But, the biggest decision is how far do you go?   And how far back down the sill does it extend.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

While at a car show today I ran into my glass guy. He is back from vacation and was there with his car. I want him to help me disassemble my windows and build an inventory of the liners and rollers I will need. He will eventually cut new glass.

The window frames will be part of the next batch of chrome. I have 2 months left in the schedule for my first batch. So next weekend I hope to meet with him to take these apart. I have the screws soaking in pb blaster for now.

[Clewisiii]

Interesting observation on the window bug etching.

The quarter window lettering reads right to left etched on the outside of the glass. The main windows read right to left through the glass. So etched in reverse.

I know about the LH glass etching is on the same side as the RH. This is the quarter window and side glass on the same side.

Apparently the Former owner of markngard will create the pattern and they will make etching stencils.

[Clewisiii]

These screws suck. I don't think half of them will survive.

The chrome parts will go off in my next batch. The non chrome will be sandblasted then zinc plated.

I still need to remove the riveted rollers. And my glass guy has jigs to remove the glass from the chrome without damaging the chrome. So that is planned for this weekend.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Most of the time, those screws are difficult to remove. I had probably luck when I restored my 3 cars; even the screws from the Biarritz (a rust bucket) could be removed.

[Clewisiii]

Well so far I got three screws to come out. I had to drill three, and there are two left that I am letting sit in penetrant longer.  I am not going to reuse these screws, but it is a lot easier to not drill, to not risk messing up the screw holes.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

One secret of removing these screws is to use brand new screw drivers, as worn ones are out of shape.

The second tip is to put coarse Valve Grinding Paste on the tip of the screw driver.   The abrasiveness of the paste granules will dig into both the screw and the driver sides, creating a "gripping" surface.

But, be careful to wipe everything clean when finished, as you don't want the residue getting where it is not wanted.

Bruce.

[Clewisiii]

I stopped into the store front and office for Cars1nc. They are neer my work in metro Detroit. They mostly sell reproduction Chevy parts from the 50s to the late 60s. But there are a number of bits and pieces that cross over. I think they are the only people I can get rear parcel shelf formed drain hoses from.

But they also sell seat covers and door panel upholstery. I asked if they could remake my sun visors if I provide the material. I cannot sew the inside curve on my visor with my walking foot. He confirmed it is a special foot to do that curve with the binding. He said $120 a pair. At that price I might do two sets.

Sorry no pictures. But it was nice seeing presewn factory style seat covers and door panels on display.  Makes me a little jealous that we don't have ready made materials like that for cadillac.

[Clewisiii]

All the side glass is down to just glass in frames. I will try to meet with the glass guy on Saturday to remove the glass without damaging the frames. There is a little stainless here. But most of this will be going to the chrome shop.



I still have to disassemble three quarter window frames. But I want to buy some glass run felt channels and test fit to what I have already taken apart before I remove more.



Here are some screws I saved. I will need to find some replacements for these. These seem to be very soft metal. Of course I would prefer to replace with stainless.



Some window rollers. Funny. The cleaner one on the left was seized. The ugly one on the right spun.

[Clewisiii]

It anyone knows how this stainless cover that spans the joint between the side windows comes off let my know.

I am trying to dig out the dry roared rubber seal to see if there are fasteners under it.

[Clewisiii]

I made myself a liar. I took apart the quarter windows. But I have not stripped all the stainless from tge window channels yet.

[Clewisiii]

So about that window lettering. The large side glass printed on the outside, and the quarter glass printed in reverse from the inside. Looking at the lettering differences in them, I think I determined they came from two different plants. For my restoration I think I only want to pay for one bug stencil to be made. So I will have to pick one.

[Clewisiii]

A little worried or annoyed here.

The rubber the right way seal is just rubber. The original is a rubber in a metal track that I  think is then riveted in the frames. There was a screw at the top of the track.

The track is rusty soft metal. I don't think I can save them. So I assume I will need to glue the rubber directly to the window frame.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Carl,

That is one of my pet peeves.   But, in your case, I believe that the steel is attached to the frame, then the rubber is slid into the retaining grooves.

What I cannot stand is the suppliers that reproduce the rubbers, and make no attempt at including the steel backing or inserts that come with the original pieces.   Most Factory rubbers have some sort of inlaid metal, al-be-it a length of "wobbly" steel running the length of the weatherstrip, as in the windscreen to door window weatherstrip in the '70's Eldorados.   Or the top of the doors, front and rear for the same cars.

Bruce.  

[Clewisiii]

So confirmed. There are three rivets in each track.

I can try to repair this one I damaged. Or I can take one off of my parts car it I want to reuse these secondary tracks.

[Clewisiii]

The frames are off the glass. These frames will be part of the next batch of chrome in September.

There is some stainless that will need to be polished. I think I have found two local guys who can mirror polish it for me.

My glass guy will cut the new glass. I have to contact Markngard to get some ezeye window bug stencles made.

The glass and roller tracks need to be zinc plated. I have someone local to do that.

Then it is an order to rubber the right way for seals.

These will then be packed away until after paint. But order of operations dictate that the side glass chrome will be the first chrome to be installed since they are buried in the door.

[Clewisiii]

OK. One of my lower window frames is rusted through.

I will figure out which door this is for and contact Jason Edge to see if he has one that will fit from the cars he has stripped.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Looking at your parts, I marvel at the complicated pieces that had to be designed, and made so that simple operations of windows going up and down, and swivelling can be made to work so seamlessly.

As for the new rubber pieces, is there a way of removing the release agents that the makers use when moulding the pieces?

I always find that with the front to rear window divider pieces tend to slip out of the vertical grooves in the front of the rear glass frame, and need constant pushing back up.

The originals aren't glued in, but just hold their position.

Bruce.